Crank Shaft Bolt
Discussion
Right hand thread.
I've had mine on and off quite a few times. You need to access the flywhell so that you can physically lock it from moving. In gear and hand brake etc is a waste of time, as there's too much movement in the transmission etc. 1/2" drive long bar + socket and away you go. If it's really tight you might need a 3/4" drive long bar + socket.
Remember to put Loctite on the stud when you put it back.
I've had mine on and off quite a few times. You need to access the flywhell so that you can physically lock it from moving. In gear and hand brake etc is a waste of time, as there's too much movement in the transmission etc. 1/2" drive long bar + socket and away you go. If it's really tight you might need a 3/4" drive long bar + socket.
Remember to put Loctite on the stud when you put it back.
Wedg1e said:
I put a 3 foot cracking bar and socket on mine, rested the end of the bar on the floor and with the ECU unplugged, hit the starter. Bent the bar, but it did crack the bolt 
Nothing else I'd tried had shifted it, that was a last resort.
Thats the way I did mine as well, with a 3/4 inch bar set and heavy duty socket. Came of first start but just took the king pin off to stop engine firing Nothing else I'd tried had shifted it, that was a last resort.
If the engine is out of the car already then the only way I've found to undo this bolt is to mount it upside down on a stand and remove the sump.
With the sump removed you can wedge a piece of timber (wrapped in plenty of rags) and chock the crank itself. That'll stop the crank from turning allowing you to get a decent size socket and bar on the bolt. If need be extended the bar with a length of scaffold tube or similar makes this operation completely sweat free.
With the sump removed you can wedge a piece of timber (wrapped in plenty of rags) and chock the crank itself. That'll stop the crank from turning allowing you to get a decent size socket and bar on the bolt. If need be extended the bar with a length of scaffold tube or similar makes this operation completely sweat free.
There are balancing holes in the flywheel, face nearest the block, that you can stick a pry bar into. This will stop any rotation. These holes can be accessed by removing the thin metal plate on the bottom half of the bell housing. If the engine's out then anything in the ring gear will work, although if it's that tight you'll probably just pull the engine over.
Best of luck whichever method you choose.
Best of luck whichever method you choose.
Many thanks gents will have a go at the weekend, the car was purchased with on history, but I think prior to getting the car the engine must have been rebuilt, all the shells look like new and the crank has no marks at all.
However am going to give the lot the once over to make sure & replace the shells piston rings, seals and a few other parts to make sure, BIG JOB!!!
However am going to give the lot the once over to make sure & replace the shells piston rings, seals and a few other parts to make sure, BIG JOB!!!
mac123yre said:
Many thanks gents will have a go at the weekend, the car was purchased with on history, but I think prior to getting the car the engine must have been rebuilt, all the shells look like new and the crank has no marks at all.
However am going to give the lot the once over to make sure & replace the shells piston rings, seals and a few other parts to make sure, BIG JOB!!!
If you change the rings you will need a hone, so think twice if there are ok.However am going to give the lot the once over to make sure & replace the shells piston rings, seals and a few other parts to make sure, BIG JOB!!!
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