One exhaust blows more than other...
Discussion
Hi. Just been into the garage to give my K series Elise (S2) a turn over and warm it through.
Is it a good idea to do this without actually driving it? I gently revved it to 3000rpm a few times, it went to 80 degrees after 10 minutes and I thern turned it off.
Although parked without the handbrake on, the discs were still a little frozen - is this normal enough?
The main point though is that I noticed the right hand exhaust pipe blowing more in the cold air today. Even when revving I could see more exhaust fumes on the right as I sat in the cabin.
Is this normal please? Just had a C service and it started nicely anyway.
Many thanks.
Nick
Is it a good idea to do this without actually driving it? I gently revved it to 3000rpm a few times, it went to 80 degrees after 10 minutes and I thern turned it off.
Although parked without the handbrake on, the discs were still a little frozen - is this normal enough?
The main point though is that I noticed the right hand exhaust pipe blowing more in the cold air today. Even when revving I could see more exhaust fumes on the right as I sat in the cabin.
Is this normal please? Just had a C service and it started nicely anyway.
Many thanks.
Nick
kevin ritson said:
Normal - the gases will take whatever is the easiest path, when there's more pressure from revving the other pipe takes the overflow
Not sure about that NDT.If normal all's fine then. MAybe the exhaust comes out in a letter 'h' shape, so in this case finds the route of least resistance as you say.
BTW, car is garaged with handbrake off on the flat
As Kambites says, the 111S has a vacuum operated butterfly which opens under load. One of the advantages of a twin box sports exhaust is that you do away with uncertain gas flow characteristics of the standard exhaust and have a more consistent, efficient flow.
Anyway, as to warming the car up, because you're not driving it, I'm not a fan. I don't think anything useful is achieved; if you don't drive it, it doesn't wear. If you start it up and leave it idling, you have cold-start wear occuring, over-rich mixture risking petrol finding it's way down the bores with resultant stripping of oil from the cylinder walls, valve gear etc. Because the engine won't get properly warm you risk condensation forming in the sump and other areas. An idling engine may develop hotspots which road-use and concerted coolant flow would eradicate. On the K series, with its low temperature threshold tolerance I wouldn't leave the car idling longer than necessary.
In summary, I don't think you gain anything by just starting the car now and again and letting it warm up. Much more likely to cause extra wear IMHO. The only real argument for such activity is to prevent seizure, but that shouldn't be a problem on a garaged car or even one at the roadside (where seizure is more likely to be of the brakes or linkages and fasteners).
On the brakes, that's normal. They'll free off with a clunk when you move the car.
Anyway, as to warming the car up, because you're not driving it, I'm not a fan. I don't think anything useful is achieved; if you don't drive it, it doesn't wear. If you start it up and leave it idling, you have cold-start wear occuring, over-rich mixture risking petrol finding it's way down the bores with resultant stripping of oil from the cylinder walls, valve gear etc. Because the engine won't get properly warm you risk condensation forming in the sump and other areas. An idling engine may develop hotspots which road-use and concerted coolant flow would eradicate. On the K series, with its low temperature threshold tolerance I wouldn't leave the car idling longer than necessary.
In summary, I don't think you gain anything by just starting the car now and again and letting it warm up. Much more likely to cause extra wear IMHO. The only real argument for such activity is to prevent seizure, but that shouldn't be a problem on a garaged car or even one at the roadside (where seizure is more likely to be of the brakes or linkages and fasteners).
On the brakes, that's normal. They'll free off with a clunk when you move the car.
griffter said:
As Kambites says, the 111S has a vacuum operated butterfly which opens under load. One of the advantages of a twin box sports exhaust is that you do away with uncertain gas flow characteristics of the standard exhaust and have a more consistent, efficient flow.
Anyway, as to warming the car up, because you're not driving it, I'm not a fan. I don't think anything useful is achieved; if you don't drive it, it doesn't wear. If you start it up and leave it idling, you have cold-start wear occuring, over-rich mixture risking petrol finding it's way down the bores with resultant stripping of oil from the cylinder walls, valve gear etc. Because the engine won't get properly warm you risk condensation forming in the sump and other areas. An idling engine may develop hotspots which road-use and concerted coolant flow would eradicate. On the K series, with its low temperature threshold tolerance I wouldn't leave the car idling longer than necessary.
In summary, I don't think you gain anything by just starting the car now and again and letting it warm up. Much more likely to cause extra wear IMHO. The only real argument for such activity is to prevent seizure, but that shouldn't be a problem on a garaged car or even one at the roadside (where seizure is more likely to be of the brakes or linkages and fasteners).
On the brakes, that's normal. They'll free off with a clunk when you move the car.
Many thanks for that. Points accepted and I shall resist the temptation to fire her up. Regrettably the track away from the garage is still snowy and on a slight incline/curve, so it'll stay there until it clears. I had the fan fixed before Xmas, so it's a complete novelty to me Anyway, as to warming the car up, because you're not driving it, I'm not a fan. I don't think anything useful is achieved; if you don't drive it, it doesn't wear. If you start it up and leave it idling, you have cold-start wear occuring, over-rich mixture risking petrol finding it's way down the bores with resultant stripping of oil from the cylinder walls, valve gear etc. Because the engine won't get properly warm you risk condensation forming in the sump and other areas. An idling engine may develop hotspots which road-use and concerted coolant flow would eradicate. On the K series, with its low temperature threshold tolerance I wouldn't leave the car idling longer than necessary.
In summary, I don't think you gain anything by just starting the car now and again and letting it warm up. Much more likely to cause extra wear IMHO. The only real argument for such activity is to prevent seizure, but that shouldn't be a problem on a garaged car or even one at the roadside (where seizure is more likely to be of the brakes or linkages and fasteners).
On the brakes, that's normal. They'll free off with a clunk when you move the car.
Mister K said:
Is it better to turn the engine over without allowing it to start by removing fuel pump fuse, the idea being to circulate some oil around?
Car hasn't moved out of garage now for five weeks, battery topped up every third week.
Interesting thought. Mine is kept on trickle with no battery top ups. Do I need to top it up?Car hasn't moved out of garage now for five weeks, battery topped up every third week.
I sense this is turning intyo a winter storage thread
I expect there are a few of those already Night all.
OH is away tonight so I watched Area 9 on me own...not bad...left open for a sequel. Enjoyed overall.
Mister K said:
Is it better to turn the engine over without allowing it to start by removing fuel pump fuse, the idea being to circulate some oil around?
Car hasn't moved out of garage now for five weeks, battery topped up every third week.
That's not a bad idea after an oil change, or if there's a risk of the oil pump emptying of oil if left unstarted for a long time. I don't think the K series suffers from this though? The old Rover V8 could, however.Car hasn't moved out of garage now for five weeks, battery topped up every third week.
When I pulled the 'correct' fuse having consulted the handbook and SELOC, the engine fired up straight away though! So be prepared for a surprise...
nick_j007 said:
Mister K said:
Is it better to turn the engine over without allowing it to start by removing fuel pump fuse, the idea being to circulate some oil around?
Car hasn't moved out of garage now for five weeks, battery topped up every third week.
Interesting thought. Mine is kept on trickle with no battery top ups. Do I need to top it up?Car hasn't moved out of garage now for five weeks, battery topped up every third week.
I sense this is turning intyo a winter storage thread
I expect there are a few of those already Night all.
OH is away tonight so I watched Area 9 on me own...not bad...left open for a sequel. Enjoyed overall.
Mister K said:
nick_j007 said:
Mister K said:
Is it better to turn the engine over without allowing it to start by removing fuel pump fuse, the idea being to circulate some oil around?
Car hasn't moved out of garage now for five weeks, battery topped up every third week.
Interesting thought. Mine is kept on trickle with no battery top ups. Do I need to top it up?Car hasn't moved out of garage now for five weeks, battery topped up every third week.
I sense this is turning intyo a winter storage thread
I expect there are a few of those already Night all.
OH is away tonight so I watched Area 9 on me own...not bad...left open for a sequel. Enjoyed overall.
I am so going to drive the car once the roads are right- and I can get out of the garage! Then I shall wash it and put it away again ready to get dirty next time
Nick just to add to what has been said I also have a 111s which has one exhaust blowing more than the other, it has the valve in which opens over 4000rpm to give a more straight thro exhaust above that - there is quite a notable change in volume and tone above this. I also see ur 111s has the same heater intrument illumination problem as mine... At least lotus were consistently inconsistent eh?!
michaeldale00 said:
Nick just to add to what has been said I also have a 111s which has one exhaust blowing more than the other, it has the valve in which opens over 4000rpm to give a more straight thro exhaust above that - there is quite a notable change in volume and tone above this. I also see ur 111s has the same heater intrument illumination problem as mine... At least lotus were consistently inconsistent eh?!
As I look at the back of the car it is the right exhaust that blows more btw. I love the xhaust note...it all sounds and feels good, so I'll put it down to a natural running of the car anyway.Cheers and thanks.
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