E36 Rear Suspension Knock.
Discussion
Evening folks,
Firstly cheers for those who helped with the running problem before. Since clearing the codes, the car refuses to misbehave, so hopefully it was a slight induction leak on the throttle body elbow.
Anyway, as luck would have it I have another problem caused by our cr*ppy roads.
I drove over a big pothole last night which has caused a nearside rear end knock whenever I go over a bump.
Both rear trailing arm bushes were only replaced 3 months ago so surely one of those hasn't been shot in the bump?
Are there any other obvious culprets for a knock when going over fairly sharp bumps?
Many thanks,
Nick
Firstly cheers for those who helped with the running problem before. Since clearing the codes, the car refuses to misbehave, so hopefully it was a slight induction leak on the throttle body elbow.
Anyway, as luck would have it I have another problem caused by our cr*ppy roads.
I drove over a big pothole last night which has caused a nearside rear end knock whenever I go over a bump.
Both rear trailing arm bushes were only replaced 3 months ago so surely one of those hasn't been shot in the bump?
Are there any other obvious culprets for a knock when going over fairly sharp bumps?
Many thanks,
Nick
is it a rubber OEM one?
If so, the person who fitted it greased it up with the wrong stuff.
Normally, they are so hard to shift, that they get burnt out, or drilled for ages until nothing is left. There is a quick drying assembly lube (or washing up liquid is very similar) that allows it to slip in, but will wear off in it's slippyness.
You can have a go, maybe this time it won't shift, try levering it over for now and see what happens, or you might need to jack the back, trace around the bush carrier (the 3 bolts are in elongated holes to set up the rear toe, so you don't want to just bolt it up anyway)
pull the end of the trailing arm down, undo the bolt through it, and get the carrier off, then try to press the bush in again.
it might nee a vice or a bearing puller to get it to move.
Hammers work, but only if it was against something solid to hammer against.
If so, the person who fitted it greased it up with the wrong stuff.
Normally, they are so hard to shift, that they get burnt out, or drilled for ages until nothing is left. There is a quick drying assembly lube (or washing up liquid is very similar) that allows it to slip in, but will wear off in it's slippyness.
You can have a go, maybe this time it won't shift, try levering it over for now and see what happens, or you might need to jack the back, trace around the bush carrier (the 3 bolts are in elongated holes to set up the rear toe, so you don't want to just bolt it up anyway)
pull the end of the trailing arm down, undo the bolt through it, and get the carrier off, then try to press the bush in again.
it might nee a vice or a bearing puller to get it to move.
Hammers work, but only if it was against something solid to hammer against.
TheEnd said:
is it a rubber OEM one?
If so, the person who fitted it greased it up with the wrong stuff.
Normally, they are so hard to shift, that they get burnt out, or drilled for ages until nothing is left. There is a quick drying assembly lube (or washing up liquid is very similar) that allows it to slip in, but will wear off in it's slippyness.
You can have a go, maybe this time it won't shift, try levering it over for now and see what happens, or you might need to jack the back, trace around the bush carrier (the 3 bolts are in elongated holes to set up the rear toe, so you don't want to just bolt it up anyway)
pull the end of the trailing arm down, undo the bolt through it, and get the carrier off, then try to press the bush in again.
it might nee a vice or a bearing puller to get it to move.
Hammers work, but only if it was against something solid to hammer against.
Yeah it's an OEM one so methinks he's used copper grease or something that's stayed sticky.If so, the person who fitted it greased it up with the wrong stuff.
Normally, they are so hard to shift, that they get burnt out, or drilled for ages until nothing is left. There is a quick drying assembly lube (or washing up liquid is very similar) that allows it to slip in, but will wear off in it's slippyness.
You can have a go, maybe this time it won't shift, try levering it over for now and see what happens, or you might need to jack the back, trace around the bush carrier (the 3 bolts are in elongated holes to set up the rear toe, so you don't want to just bolt it up anyway)
pull the end of the trailing arm down, undo the bolt through it, and get the carrier off, then try to press the bush in again.
it might nee a vice or a bearing puller to get it to move.
Hammers work, but only if it was against something solid to hammer against.
Thanks, i'm tempted to have a go myself, since I do most myself. I'd guess with the Toe setting, if I mark the current bolt positions I should be able to set like for like.
jz325i said:
Fire99 said:
Can't imagine i'm gonna manage to get the council to foot the bill. 
Depends how deep it is - I think the threshold is about 40mm.I'm trying to realign the bush myself first, partly due to impatience for when the car can be booked in and also i've not done the job before so ll be another on the list.
So far, considering the bushes were only replaced a few months ago, the carrier bolts are tighter than captain bleedin tight.
So PlusGas may be needed and maybe a blow torch. Oh to have my own hydraulic ramps and air tools.
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