Converting patio into decking

[Penny-lope]

Ok I moved in to my house just over 5 months ago, but decided to concentrate on the inside rather than the outside.

However it won't be long till the spring is here, so I am now thinking about my garden.

I currently have a raised, slabbed patio ~4m x 3m, but it has been badly construsted and is very wobbly in parts. Therefore I am thinking of replacing it with decking. Just one slight problem...I do not want to remove the patio.

So is it possible to just build a frame around/on top of the patio, and then deck on top of this? This would save time, money (hire of several skips) and my back. Or is the decking more likely to rot due to lack of air below it?

Thanks

[Spudler]

No problem doing it like you've suggested, just make sure there's an air flow underneath, minimum of 4" preferably 6" from ground level to underside of deck.

[CraigW]

yes I've done same a few times. Depending on how large & heavy then its an idea to bolt it to the patio or drop a bit of cement down to keep it secure.

Also, IMHO the extra outlay for hardwood initially is well worth it (balau I have always used.

I also tend to always keep it smooth side up. its no more slippery & you dont get all manner of cr@p getting into the grooves which you have to jetwash out.

[russ_a]

make sure the decking doesnt touch the house wall above the damp proof course level too

[BoRED S2upid]

I did exactly the same, pretty easy job.

[Penny-lope]

BoRED S2upid said:

I did exactly the same, pretty easy job.

You don't fancy doing it again, do you?

russ_a said:

make sure the decking doesnt touch the house wall above the damp proof course level too

The patio is complete separate from the house, so not a worry

Edited by Penny-lope on Thursday 14th January 17:55

[bramley]

I was planning to do this, however it became apparent that my wobbly and knackered patio wasn't even remotely level, and would probably have caused the decking to flex or knock against some of the slabs.

Change of plan ensued, and I built the frame, then worked out which slabs to lift, then dug out post holes and built the whole thing on posts. Was easy really, and it's rock solid.

[herbialfa]

Remember if its more than 300mm above ground level then you will need Planning Permission. Which I think the above photograph is!

Have a butchers here!

http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/hhg/house...

[bramley]

herbialfa said:

Remember if its more than 300mm above ground level then you will need Planning Permission. Which I think the above photograph is!

Have a butchers here!

http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/hhg/house...

No mine isn't

[herbialfa]

OK I stand corrected!

I was just pointing out the fact!

[peenut]

bramley said:

I was planning to do this, however it became apparent that my wobbly and knackered patio wasn't even remotely level, and would probably have caused the decking to flex or knock against some of the slabs.

Change of plan ensued, and I built the frame, then worked out which slabs to lift, then dug out post holes and built the whole thing on posts. Was easy really, and it's rock solid.

I've been thinking about doing something similar with the raised patio at the end of the garden as the brickwork is starting to fail and for some reason, last owner decided that having a crescent shape patio was a good thing! Its a bugger to mow to the edge of let along fit tables etc on. A nice square deck is in order i think and I'll even be able to keep under the 300mm guidelines.

[timberman]

bramley said:

I was planning to do this, however it became apparent that my wobbly and knackered patio wasn't even remotely level, and would probably have caused the decking to flex or knock against some of the slabs.

Change of plan ensued, and I built the frame, then worked out which slabs to lift, then dug out post holes and built the whole thing on posts. Was easy really, and it's rock solid.

this is exactly what I would do.

removing key slabs to fit support posts is not a big job and will make your decking a lot sturdier and longer lasting,
there's no need to remove the other slabs as they shouldn't get in the way and will also help to stop any vegetation from growing underneath along with some weed suppressant topped of with a bit of gravel around the posts.

[DB7 pilot]

Make sure the timber is pressure treated or tanalized. A good sawmill will have the proper equipment to treat the timber to the correct spec. They are usually cheaper than the Homebase, B&Q's and garden centres you would normally get your decking packs from and they may even supply those people. Look for Sawmills / forestry / fencing suppliers. As you'd expect they're generally in rural locations, car parks are a little ropey, but they know their stuff and you'll save £££'s.

Like someone else mentioned, if you're putting the timber straight onto the slabs use a roll of 3" to 4" D.P.C. (damp proof course) membrane under the timber for added protecion.

Your fixings, nails or screws should be exterior grade, i.e. galvanised or japaned. If not after about a year you'll get a reaction between the corroding fixing and the chemicals in the timber which can result in blackening of the woodgrain around the fixing hole.

Finally, if it's possible nowadays, your finishing stain/laquer will last longer if it's NOT water based, ideally an oil based product with it's longer drying time and inconvenience of white spirit for cleaning brushes will, in the long term, pay you back with its better durability. I use many stains and paints and though water based products have come on leaps and bounds in the last few years, I've yet to find one that treats external horizontal laid timber as well as oil based stains or laquers.

Good luck with it.

[Lordbenny]

Put my deck over the rubble and st left from old conservatory, dug posts in to ground and filled with postcrete where possible and used post holders where we couldn't dig due to solid floor.

[Penny-lope]

Lordbenny said:

Put my deck over the rubble and st left from old conservatory, dug posts in to ground and filled with postcrete where possible and used post holders where we couldn't dig due to solid floor.

Much nicer

Thanks for the advice everyone...looks like my summer is going to be busy