Snowboards - does it make any difference which one?
Discussion
I've read about all of these different snowboards and they sound great (I love being sold too), but is there really that much of a difference between them?
For example I have done 2 weeks boarding and I'm very much still learning. I bought a K2 Union to learn on, which I've found out is an intermediate / advanced board. Would I find it easier / quicker to learn if I downgraded to a beginners board? Or is it just marketing, after all how different can a board be???
For example I have done 2 weeks boarding and I'm very much still learning. I bought a K2 Union to learn on, which I've found out is an intermediate / advanced board. Would I find it easier / quicker to learn if I downgraded to a beginners board? Or is it just marketing, after all how different can a board be???
Mega different. I asked on here about snowboards a year or so ago and got very little constructive help. I rode flopppy, slow, easy turning boards for a while then went straight to an ultra stiff wide board (I'm a wide load) but it was a steep learning curve. It paid off in all mountain use, especially keeping up with skiers but I had to really work at it. I've ridden a few rentals for odd days to try and decide if I should buy a new one and I just replaced mine with an Atomic Hatchet. For the price it's hard to beat, hard wearing and a bit more cruisy. It will probably suit me being in the twilight of my snowboarding career. It seemed difficult to buy a super stiff board these days.
I'd suggest going to shop and having a chat. I latched onto the oldest assistant in the Subvert shop at Chill Factore and bled him dry for info. He helped me spend my cash no problem
I'd suggest going to shop and having a chat. I latched onto the oldest assistant in the Subvert shop at Chill Factore and bled him dry for info. He helped me spend my cash no problem
Very different. Like cars!
Some are nimble and turn quicker
some love off road and plough through powder
others are stifer and are more accurate
its not all just marketing. Take the new style rocker systems. These are now offering new dimentions to boards.
I would try going along to a board testing day at your local slope. Usually run by a large shop or manufacturer.
I'm not keen on my current board. It's too slow on piste. And not as flexible as I like
Some are nimble and turn quicker
some love off road and plough through powder
others are stifer and are more accurate
its not all just marketing. Take the new style rocker systems. These are now offering new dimentions to boards.
I would try going along to a board testing day at your local slope. Usually run by a large shop or manufacturer.
I'm not keen on my current board. It's too slow on piste. And not as flexible as I like
A lot depends on what sort of riding you want to do.
The flexible boards are a lot of fun if you want to learn tricks, jump around etc, but they are less stable at speed and can be a bit of a pain when riding long, not very steep paths!
If you plan to be riding deep powder a lot, then a longer, slightly stiffer board is better.
The length partly depends on your height. I am 5ft10 and mainly ride a 154 (although 156 is probably better for my height, - i like a shorter flexible board as i find it easier to throw around!).
If you are starting out and mainly riding pisted runs I would go with something quite neutral, not too stiff so you can have fun on it, but not to flappy to give you some stability. Also look into something called magne traction. I've heard that this is a new technology that helps you to grip ice patches better by providing more contact points on the edge of the board with the snow. Sometimes i wish i had this!lol
The flexible boards are a lot of fun if you want to learn tricks, jump around etc, but they are less stable at speed and can be a bit of a pain when riding long, not very steep paths!
If you plan to be riding deep powder a lot, then a longer, slightly stiffer board is better.
The length partly depends on your height. I am 5ft10 and mainly ride a 154 (although 156 is probably better for my height, - i like a shorter flexible board as i find it easier to throw around!).
If you are starting out and mainly riding pisted runs I would go with something quite neutral, not too stiff so you can have fun on it, but not to flappy to give you some stability. Also look into something called magne traction. I've heard that this is a new technology that helps you to grip ice patches better by providing more contact points on the edge of the board with the snow. Sometimes i wish i had this!lol
Yes - the ride a board gives can vary a great deal. Lots of factors impact how a board rides
Length (long = fast, and stable on an edge, but hard to turn or spin in the air)
Width at nose and tail (Floats better in powder, less good for carving and weight saving)
Waist width (narrow = quick edge to edge, but less stable, particularly landing jumps)
Sidecut radius (staggered or not - smaller radius means tighter turns but requires more technique)
Stiffness (stiff = responsive, unforgiving, and requires consistent strength and attention)
Construction (wood core or man made)
Weight (light is generally better but costs more)
Relative stiffness at various points of the board (floppy nose/stiff tail = great in powder but rubbish riding switch (backwards))
If you've spent two weeks on snow don't buy a 'beginners' board. Also I'd advise avoiding buying anything super stiff, agressive, or overly long. (Board should come to between chin and nose when held up on the tail)
I would recommend an all mountain go anywhere intermediate board from one of the major manufacturers. Probably best to avoid signature models too. You want something that will cope with all the various terrain rather than specialising in one area.
Stiff boards are very responsive, great on steeps and on the piste, hard work in powder snow or at the end of a long day. If you loose your concentration for a second you'll get caught out. Floppy beginners boards will be frustrating on hard pack and ice, and will not support you when you're learning to carve properly (rather than skidded turns as you probably do now)
Something like a Burton custom. Boring middle of the road choice perhaps but well built and will go anywhere. (Plenty of others in this segment though)
I've always received good advice at The Snowboard Asylum (part of Ellis Brigham) particularly the Covent Garden one. I've been riding for 17 years now and did 2 seasons. I've been through the grungy twin-tip, Lib Tech phase, and am now back where I started with mainstream brands because they have better R&D.
The Snowboard UK buyers guide is usually worth a read, and Neil McNab's book Go Snowboard teaches exactly the right methods. Buy it if you don't have it, currently only 6 quid on Amazon. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Go-Snowboard-Neil-McNab/dp...
(Oh - and choose one that has graphics you like. You need something that will inspire you on cold dark mornings in a lift queue!)
Length (long = fast, and stable on an edge, but hard to turn or spin in the air)
Width at nose and tail (Floats better in powder, less good for carving and weight saving)
Waist width (narrow = quick edge to edge, but less stable, particularly landing jumps)
Sidecut radius (staggered or not - smaller radius means tighter turns but requires more technique)
Stiffness (stiff = responsive, unforgiving, and requires consistent strength and attention)
Construction (wood core or man made)
Weight (light is generally better but costs more)
Relative stiffness at various points of the board (floppy nose/stiff tail = great in powder but rubbish riding switch (backwards))
If you've spent two weeks on snow don't buy a 'beginners' board. Also I'd advise avoiding buying anything super stiff, agressive, or overly long. (Board should come to between chin and nose when held up on the tail)
I would recommend an all mountain go anywhere intermediate board from one of the major manufacturers. Probably best to avoid signature models too. You want something that will cope with all the various terrain rather than specialising in one area.
Stiff boards are very responsive, great on steeps and on the piste, hard work in powder snow or at the end of a long day. If you loose your concentration for a second you'll get caught out. Floppy beginners boards will be frustrating on hard pack and ice, and will not support you when you're learning to carve properly (rather than skidded turns as you probably do now)
Something like a Burton custom. Boring middle of the road choice perhaps but well built and will go anywhere. (Plenty of others in this segment though)
I've always received good advice at The Snowboard Asylum (part of Ellis Brigham) particularly the Covent Garden one. I've been riding for 17 years now and did 2 seasons. I've been through the grungy twin-tip, Lib Tech phase, and am now back where I started with mainstream brands because they have better R&D.
The Snowboard UK buyers guide is usually worth a read, and Neil McNab's book Go Snowboard teaches exactly the right methods. Buy it if you don't have it, currently only 6 quid on Amazon. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Go-Snowboard-Neil-McNab/dp...
(Oh - and choose one that has graphics you like. You need something that will inspire you on cold dark mornings in a lift queue!)
blueg33 said:
If you have to ask this question, you are better off hiring. Try a whole range and see what you like for your style.
not really, as most places only hire beginner boards - though some offer variety, but your better off buying a good, standard intermediate board and learning to ride that.I have big feet but find wide boatds too slow edge to edge. For me the best results come from a standard width board and the use of risers. I also ride with quite an "alpine" stance meaning the feet are angled quite well forward. Terrible for the park, great on the open mountain both on and off piste.
sassthathoopie said:
Yes - the ride a board gives can vary a great deal. Lots of factors impact how a board rides
Length (long = fast, and stable on an edge, but hard to turn or spin in the air)
Width at nose and tail (Floats better in powder, less good for carving and weight saving)
Waist width (narrow = quick edge to edge, but less stable, particularly landing jumps)
Sidecut radius (staggered or not - smaller radius means tighter turns but requires more technique)
Stiffness (stiff = responsive, unforgiving, and requires consistent strength and attention)
Construction (wood core or man made)
Weight (light is generally better but costs more)
Relative stiffness at various points of the board (floppy nose/stiff tail = great in powder but rubbish riding switch (backwards))
If you've spent two weeks on snow don't buy a 'beginners' board. Also I'd advise avoiding buying anything super stiff, agressive, or overly long. (Board should come to between chin and nose when held up on the tail)
I would recommend an all mountain go anywhere intermediate board from one of the major manufacturers. Probably best to avoid signature models too. You want something that will cope with all the various terrain rather than specialising in one area.
Stiff boards are very responsive, great on steeps and on the piste, hard work in powder snow or at the end of a long day. If you loose your concentration for a second you'll get caught out. Floppy beginners boards will be frustrating on hard pack and ice, and will not support you when you're learning to carve properly (rather than skidded turns as you probably do now)
Something like a Burton custom. Boring middle of the road choice perhaps but well built and will go anywhere. (Plenty of others in this segment though)
I've always received good advice at The Snowboard Asylum (part of Ellis Brigham) particularly the Covent Garden one. I've been riding for 17 years now and did 2 seasons. I've been through the grungy twin-tip, Lib Tech phase, and am now back where I started with mainstream brands because they have better R&D.
The Snowboard UK buyers guide is usually worth a read, and Neil McNab's book Go Snowboard teaches exactly the right methods. Buy it if you don't have it, currently only 6 quid on Amazon. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Go-Snowboard-Neil-McNab/dp...
(Oh - and choose one that has graphics you like. You need something that will inspire you on cold dark mornings in a lift queue!)
What he said. I have been riding for 18 years, early years on Lib Techs but now ride a Burton T6 164. This is a long all mountain board but I am 6ft 2in and 16 stone so its suits me as I can rid the park and the steeps in powder with no problem.Length (long = fast, and stable on an edge, but hard to turn or spin in the air)
Width at nose and tail (Floats better in powder, less good for carving and weight saving)
Waist width (narrow = quick edge to edge, but less stable, particularly landing jumps)
Sidecut radius (staggered or not - smaller radius means tighter turns but requires more technique)
Stiffness (stiff = responsive, unforgiving, and requires consistent strength and attention)
Construction (wood core or man made)
Weight (light is generally better but costs more)
Relative stiffness at various points of the board (floppy nose/stiff tail = great in powder but rubbish riding switch (backwards))
If you've spent two weeks on snow don't buy a 'beginners' board. Also I'd advise avoiding buying anything super stiff, agressive, or overly long. (Board should come to between chin and nose when held up on the tail)
I would recommend an all mountain go anywhere intermediate board from one of the major manufacturers. Probably best to avoid signature models too. You want something that will cope with all the various terrain rather than specialising in one area.
Stiff boards are very responsive, great on steeps and on the piste, hard work in powder snow or at the end of a long day. If you loose your concentration for a second you'll get caught out. Floppy beginners boards will be frustrating on hard pack and ice, and will not support you when you're learning to carve properly (rather than skidded turns as you probably do now)
Something like a Burton custom. Boring middle of the road choice perhaps but well built and will go anywhere. (Plenty of others in this segment though)
I've always received good advice at The Snowboard Asylum (part of Ellis Brigham) particularly the Covent Garden one. I've been riding for 17 years now and did 2 seasons. I've been through the grungy twin-tip, Lib Tech phase, and am now back where I started with mainstream brands because they have better R&D.
The Snowboard UK buyers guide is usually worth a read, and Neil McNab's book Go Snowboard teaches exactly the right methods. Buy it if you don't have it, currently only 6 quid on Amazon. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Go-Snowboard-Neil-McNab/dp...
(Oh - and choose one that has graphics you like. You need something that will inspire you on cold dark mornings in a lift queue!)
One thing that has not been mentioned is "Boots" If anything these are even more important. Again they come in a verity of styles and uses. If you want to spend a lot of time in the park a boot with a soft flex would be better, if more on piste then a stiffer boot would be best. But the most important issue is comfort. A badly fitted boot will ruin your day. Spend as much time as you can trying on different ones. Don’t compromise. Also look for heat mouldable liners for that custom fit. Nothing is more important than getting the right boots, period!
Thanks for the tips guys - much apreciated
Yes I am a 'big' bloke - 6' 1'' , size 11 and 17 stone, so sounds like the K2 Union is the right size.
I take on board the comments - I am not a gifted boarder even though I love it and want to get much better. I have caught a few edges and hurt myself which I suppose has knocked my confidence a bit, so I was thinking of getting an 'easier' board to ride to build that confidence back up.
I know it's easy to blame the board rather than the rider, but I'm not doing that, I was just wondering whether there was something easier than the K2 Union for a numpty boarder. Grow out of that, and then progress onto something else full of confidence!
Re: Boots,I have 32 boots and love them - so comfortable
Yes I am a 'big' bloke - 6' 1'' , size 11 and 17 stone, so sounds like the K2 Union is the right size.
I take on board the comments - I am not a gifted boarder even though I love it and want to get much better. I have caught a few edges and hurt myself which I suppose has knocked my confidence a bit, so I was thinking of getting an 'easier' board to ride to build that confidence back up.
I know it's easy to blame the board rather than the rider, but I'm not doing that, I was just wondering whether there was something easier than the K2 Union for a numpty boarder. Grow out of that, and then progress onto something else full of confidence!
Re: Boots,I have 32 boots and love them - so comfortable
flyingjase said:
Thanks for the tips guys - much apreciated
Yes I am a 'big' bloke - 6' 1'' , size 11 and 17 stone, so sounds like the K2 Union is the right size.
I take on board the comments - I am not a gifted boarder even though I love it and want to get much better. I have caught a few edges and hurt myself which I suppose has knocked my confidence a bit, so I was thinking of getting an 'easier' board to ride to build that confidence back up.
I know it's easy to blame the board rather than the rider, but I'm not doing that, I was just wondering whether there was something easier than the K2 Union for a numpty boarder. Grow out of that, and then progress onto something else full of confidence!
Re: Boots,I have 32 boots and love them - so comfortable
No pain, no gain! We all catch edges from time to time, but its worth making sure that you dont have toe or heel drag which can have the same effect and is common with big feet. Risers can help you.Yes I am a 'big' bloke - 6' 1'' , size 11 and 17 stone, so sounds like the K2 Union is the right size.
I take on board the comments - I am not a gifted boarder even though I love it and want to get much better. I have caught a few edges and hurt myself which I suppose has knocked my confidence a bit, so I was thinking of getting an 'easier' board to ride to build that confidence back up.
I know it's easy to blame the board rather than the rider, but I'm not doing that, I was just wondering whether there was something easier than the K2 Union for a numpty boarder. Grow out of that, and then progress onto something else full of confidence!
Re: Boots,I have 32 boots and love them - so comfortable
You may also catch an edge if the board hasn'tt been properly serviced. Its important to "detune" ie round of the sharp edge at the wide part of the front and back of the board. (Thats a poor description, take the board to a good service workshop)
I am not familiar with your board but as long as it isnt really stiff you should be ok
Jubal said:
Maybe spend on some private lessons instead? It transformed my snowboarding a few years ago. From crap to average
That's exctly what I'm am going to do when I go away at EasterMr E Driver said:
Why not go to the snowdome and try some of the demo snowboards from the shops?
Ditto - going Sunday!Just spoke to a friend tonight who has slighlty more experince than me and he said that it 'clicked' for him this holiday (his 3rd week) - he suddenly stopped slowing down to link his turns, and now links quickly - that's what I want!!! I was wondering if downgrading the board would help speed things up!
As soon as you get it for carving turns you'll love snowboarding so much more. I think it opens up the mountain too because you can go fast in a straightish line - all those link paths become a MUCH nicer place to be at the same speed as skiers. I'm sure the instructor will sort you out on your current board. Have fun.
Find a man in a shop that knows what he's talking about. You can shop around all day on the internet and save a few quid, but nothing beats the personal touch in a proper shop. Pity you're nowhere near Newcastle upon Tyne - LD Mountain Centre is excellent.
At the end of the day you probably should go for an 'all mountain' board - meaning it'll do everything. Don't compromise yourself getting a more singular purpose board just yet. I bought a Ride Concept TMS - not coz I knew what I was doing, but because, after convincing the guy the the shop that I was already pretty confident after a week on a hire board, I wanted a board that I could grow into. I bought a last-season board to save cash. That way I can easily justify buying the board I really want in a year or so when I know for myself what kind of snowboarder I am.
Sassthathoopie's book recommendation is a good one. I went on a week long boarding course last season with Neil McNab - he's an amazing guy. The small group course was in Chamonix and cost me (I think) about eight hundred quid, and that didn't even cover the flights/accom/passes. Money well spent though believe it or not! It was all about carving. My transition from diehard skiier to snowboarder was dramatic! He'll do private beginners courses for a fee. If you've got the cash, and you want to learn right I can't recommend it enough.
Good luck!
At the end of the day you probably should go for an 'all mountain' board - meaning it'll do everything. Don't compromise yourself getting a more singular purpose board just yet. I bought a Ride Concept TMS - not coz I knew what I was doing, but because, after convincing the guy the the shop that I was already pretty confident after a week on a hire board, I wanted a board that I could grow into. I bought a last-season board to save cash. That way I can easily justify buying the board I really want in a year or so when I know for myself what kind of snowboarder I am.
Sassthathoopie's book recommendation is a good one. I went on a week long boarding course last season with Neil McNab - he's an amazing guy. The small group course was in Chamonix and cost me (I think) about eight hundred quid, and that didn't even cover the flights/accom/passes. Money well spent though believe it or not! It was all about carving. My transition from diehard skiier to snowboarder was dramatic! He'll do private beginners courses for a fee. If you've got the cash, and you want to learn right I can't recommend it enough.
Good luck!
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