Photos of my engine bay and supercharger
Discussion
Hi delmeekc,
One day in the very distant future i would like to get my old 'ro supercharged so I have a few questions.
What made you choose this particular type over, say, the one that essexhsv has? Harrop is it?
Do you run it with stock internals and what psi?
What HP does it give?
Will it be as reliable as, say, the Harrop one.
Is it readily available in the uk?
and most importantly is it relatively cheap?
Also probably not so important, does it make that lovely whine when you give it the biggun'
Many thanks
One day in the very distant future i would like to get my old 'ro supercharged so I have a few questions.
What made you choose this particular type over, say, the one that essexhsv has? Harrop is it?
Do you run it with stock internals and what psi?
What HP does it give?
Will it be as reliable as, say, the Harrop one.
Is it readily available in the uk?
and most importantly is it relatively cheap?
Also probably not so important, does it make that lovely whine when you give it the biggun'
Many thanks
The 3 hose clips are to make sure it does not come off, biggest problem I have is that connection as there is no lip on the steel pipe and it can move slightly as there is room for movement in the bumper and the engine rocks (under acceleration and engine braking) a fair bit. It's not come off so far, took an hour to get the hose on as it's nearly 4" over the pipe.
I chose this type as it was a progressive build, SC first 5psi, then intercooler 7psi, then forged internals and 10 psi.
I think the power is about 600hp, not been on the dyno since the last remap but it have a mid range cam, don't know the spec of the cam though.
Not had any reliability problems, well apart from the hose, but hopefully that's a thing of the past.
It does not whine like a harrop, i can drive the car without any boost all day long, the only thing you hear is the air comming out of the dump valves which is quite loud now as they are both types of the Bailey valves.
If I started again I would have done the forged bottom end first then started playing with FI, I would also not have gone down the non-intercooled route either (cost me 3 pistons and the forged engine was then how do you say forced and the only option), I would also have got the scan gauges from day 1 so the internal temps and pressures could be monitored, It would have saved my engine.
I've also had a lot done to the chassis etc, Kazz 2-way diff, harrop cover, D2 suspension, AP brakes, all suspension linkages adjustable, full poly bushes, full exhaust, PWR radiator, ls7 clutch, baffled sump, rods, pistons, think the crank is standard but whole engine balanced. lots of other bits and bobs but not sure the full extent, wish list, quick rack, hydraulic handbrake, roll cage, coil packs. Done a few bits myself (did the boost gauge a few years ago when it first had the SC) over christmas, new intake pipe, dump valves, ht leads, exhaust sleeves, samco extreme hose and the sc belt tension which took weeks of working out.
I chose this type as it was a progressive build, SC first 5psi, then intercooler 7psi, then forged internals and 10 psi.
I think the power is about 600hp, not been on the dyno since the last remap but it have a mid range cam, don't know the spec of the cam though.
Not had any reliability problems, well apart from the hose, but hopefully that's a thing of the past.
It does not whine like a harrop, i can drive the car without any boost all day long, the only thing you hear is the air comming out of the dump valves which is quite loud now as they are both types of the Bailey valves.
If I started again I would have done the forged bottom end first then started playing with FI, I would also not have gone down the non-intercooled route either (cost me 3 pistons and the forged engine was then how do you say forced and the only option), I would also have got the scan gauges from day 1 so the internal temps and pressures could be monitored, It would have saved my engine.
I've also had a lot done to the chassis etc, Kazz 2-way diff, harrop cover, D2 suspension, AP brakes, all suspension linkages adjustable, full poly bushes, full exhaust, PWR radiator, ls7 clutch, baffled sump, rods, pistons, think the crank is standard but whole engine balanced. lots of other bits and bobs but not sure the full extent, wish list, quick rack, hydraulic handbrake, roll cage, coil packs. Done a few bits myself (did the boost gauge a few years ago when it first had the SC) over christmas, new intake pipe, dump valves, ht leads, exhaust sleeves, samco extreme hose and the sc belt tension which took weeks of working out.
2 dump valves a far as I know. dumps to atmosphere when you lift off. No variable boost, it's just linked directly with rmp as crank driven but only close under load and a heavy right foot. So normal driving you can hear the air rushing out of the valves until they close under hard acceleration. If that make sense.
What a lovely oil breather
Do you get any crankcase smells mate?
In theory BHP should be higher too as the crankcase isnt under as much pressure. But probably not much.
Looks like a nice setup. I like the boost gauge.
Also agree with the forged engine first idea! Its the only sensible way
Do you get any crankcase smells mate?
In theory BHP should be higher too as the crankcase isnt under as much pressure. But probably not much.
Looks like a nice setup. I like the boost gauge.
Also agree with the forged engine first idea! Its the only sensible way
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Increase revs rapidly,then.