Rotten Discovery 1 - what now?
Discussion
Just in time for the snow, I was given a Series One Discovery Tdi. Marvellous! It has 165,000 miles, drives nicely, gives 38mpg on long runs, it's straight, everything works and it's as rotten as a pear.
On a pre-MoT at Newbury 4x4 they stopped counting at £3,000 estimated repair bill (for floor, cills and arches) and suggested composting it. Compost? He may have said recycle.
Anyway, I don't mind a bit of a project, but I can't weld. The chassis is mostly sound. What proportion of the cost of a major body rebuild could I save by doing the stripping, cutting away, cleaning, bolt starting and general preparation myself?
Alternatively, bonfires aside, what can be done with a sound Discovery chassis and running gear?
Do the Defender or early Range Rover bodies completely unbolt in such a way that a home build could finish up with something other than a Disco?
Suggestions please.
On a pre-MoT at Newbury 4x4 they stopped counting at £3,000 estimated repair bill (for floor, cills and arches) and suggested composting it. Compost? He may have said recycle.
Anyway, I don't mind a bit of a project, but I can't weld. The chassis is mostly sound. What proportion of the cost of a major body rebuild could I save by doing the stripping, cutting away, cleaning, bolt starting and general preparation myself?
Alternatively, bonfires aside, what can be done with a sound Discovery chassis and running gear?
Do the Defender or early Range Rover bodies completely unbolt in such a way that a home build could finish up with something other than a Disco?
Suggestions please.
North Offroad do a Freelander fibreglass body assembly
http://www.northoffroad.co.uk/epages/es120586.sf/e...
Tomcat do a Tomcat body
http://www.tomcatmotorsport.co.uk/
More likely either will cost +£5k to build....may be easier to do all the cleaning and removal works and then get a mobile welder to put in the new panels... you will have to remove fuel tank for a full boot repair.
http://www.northoffroad.co.uk/epages/es120586.sf/e...
Tomcat do a Tomcat body
http://www.tomcatmotorsport.co.uk/
More likely either will cost +£5k to build....may be easier to do all the cleaning and removal works and then get a mobile welder to put in the new panels... you will have to remove fuel tank for a full boot repair.
First off you need to go to another MOT centre. That sounds like a grade A con merchant to me.
The floor is easily fixed. Think the repair panel is about £90 but it does need welding. However it's not structural so shouldn't cause an MoT failure!
Mine was rusty too. What I'd did was buy a sheet of aluminum, cut the old floor out and bolted and sealed in the aluminium one. It's fairly thick aluminium but Defenders and Series Landys use it for the boo floor so it's fine. Did mine about 4 years or so ago.
Most exterior panels are aluminium. So not sure what they mean by arches. Again not structural and only need to present no sharp edges to pass an MOT.
Sills can be repaired, but I'd try a local mechanic and see what they'll charge.
If you fancy something different a company called NCF sell a kit called a Sahara. Looks a bit like a Defender but retains the Disco wheelbase. It's a bolt together kit and would offer something a bit different.
And yes you can fit a Defender or Series body. You can either retain the Disco wheelbase and modify the body to fit. Or chop the chassis down to fit the body. Such as an 88" Series III.
Failing that try and find a replacement Disco body to put on you chassis.
The floor is easily fixed. Think the repair panel is about £90 but it does need welding. However it's not structural so shouldn't cause an MoT failure!
Mine was rusty too. What I'd did was buy a sheet of aluminum, cut the old floor out and bolted and sealed in the aluminium one. It's fairly thick aluminium but Defenders and Series Landys use it for the boo floor so it's fine. Did mine about 4 years or so ago.
Most exterior panels are aluminium. So not sure what they mean by arches. Again not structural and only need to present no sharp edges to pass an MOT.
Sills can be repaired, but I'd try a local mechanic and see what they'll charge.
If you fancy something different a company called NCF sell a kit called a Sahara. Looks a bit like a Defender but retains the Disco wheelbase. It's a bolt together kit and would offer something a bit different.
And yes you can fit a Defender or Series body. You can either retain the Disco wheelbase and modify the body to fit. Or chop the chassis down to fit the body. Such as an 88" Series III.
Failing that try and find a replacement Disco body to put on you chassis.
300bhp/ton said:
First off you need to go to another MOT centre. That sounds like a grade A con merchant to me.
Yes, although bear in mind most garages these days are simply not geared up for welding. Like you I fail to see how any rust repair to a Disco, especially excluding the chassis, could come anywhere near that figure.Right, picture me shuffling my feet and looking awkward.
Newbury 4x4, who did the pre-MoT, are blameless. They don't do MoTs themselves and offered to do a pre-test for nothing on the assumption it would fail and be scrapped. And when I said arches, I meant the inner wings. And I failed to mention the cross members which seem to be made of Weetabix.
The £3,000 Newbury 4x4 suggested to put it straight was a stab at a price if they took it as it stands and put it right. What I'd like to know is how much of that I could save if I stripped it, sourced the repair panels and cut out the rot all ready for - Budrover's idea - a mobile welder to come in and make good. Would the project be viable at that point?
One of the reasons I think the car is worth saving is that the people who allowed it get in such a state bodily recognised they were technically inept and paid a lot of good money to keep it sound mechanically. It drives very nicely and the outer panels are quite presentable but what went on underneath in the ferrous metal meets mud department was a mystery to them. I know it looks okay outwardly because the Countess doesn't mind being seen in it.
Thanks for any and all suggestions. You've given me plenty of food for thought.
Newbury 4x4, who did the pre-MoT, are blameless. They don't do MoTs themselves and offered to do a pre-test for nothing on the assumption it would fail and be scrapped. And when I said arches, I meant the inner wings. And I failed to mention the cross members which seem to be made of Weetabix.
The £3,000 Newbury 4x4 suggested to put it straight was a stab at a price if they took it as it stands and put it right. What I'd like to know is how much of that I could save if I stripped it, sourced the repair panels and cut out the rot all ready for - Budrover's idea - a mobile welder to come in and make good. Would the project be viable at that point?
One of the reasons I think the car is worth saving is that the people who allowed it get in such a state bodily recognised they were technically inept and paid a lot of good money to keep it sound mechanically. It drives very nicely and the outer panels are quite presentable but what went on underneath in the ferrous metal meets mud department was a mystery to them. I know it looks okay outwardly because the Countess doesn't mind being seen in it.
Thanks for any and all suggestions. You've given me plenty of food for thought.
If you like the car, are confident in the mechanicals of the car and your good lady likes it, then i would go and get it fixed.
Im sure you can get replacement panals for it. If you do spend cash and get it back to a good condition then you will have something to look after for a few years.
How much are you willing to spend on it if you want to save it?
Im sure you can get replacement panals for it. If you do spend cash and get it back to a good condition then you will have something to look after for a few years.
How much are you willing to spend on it if you want to save it?
Sadly my yard is full of Disco's full of rust (17 at last count).
Just to put you straight the boot floor is a fail as the rear seat belts go through the floor, yes I know they fix to the chassis but my MOT boys won't let it go, any rust 30cm from a structral point they tell me, as 300/bhp says not that expensive to fit a new floor.
It's a real shame that they rust so badly as they are a very good vehicle on the whole.
Andy. www.ajs4x4.co.uk
Just to put you straight the boot floor is a fail as the rear seat belts go through the floor, yes I know they fix to the chassis but my MOT boys won't let it go, any rust 30cm from a structral point they tell me, as 300/bhp says not that expensive to fit a new floor.
It's a real shame that they rust so badly as they are a very good vehicle on the whole.
Andy. www.ajs4x4.co.uk
Andy Sargeant said:
...Just to put you straight the boot floor is a fail as the rear seat belts go through the floor, yes I know they fix to the chassis but my MOT boys won't let it go, any rust 30cm from a structral point they tell me, as 300/bhp says not that expensive to fit a new floor...
The floor I reckon I could do, if self tappers (or even small nuts and bolts) will satisfy an MoT examiner. But for the stuff that definitely has to be welded, is the stripping and cutting away fairly straightforward? I don't mind if it's time consuming, but is it achievable for me, at home, to get at the offending rusted components - sills, inner wings and cross members - and cut them out ready for a visiting welder without wrecking other important components?For example, the doors all close very nicely and look spot on. When I've cut away all the grot, is the body going to sag and lose its integrity? There's nothing worse than wonky the shut lines.
You are all very kindly not asking me about my level of competence
The home repair I was most chuffed with was rebuilding the transfer box on my '72 Range Rover in situ. [Against the advice of the manual, which suggested engine, gearbox and transfer box out for starters, I left it in place, took out the seats and floor, and with the aid of home made mandrels fitted lots of new twiddly bits. And it was fine.]
So I reckon I'm capable of doing the stripping, cleaning, cutting away and pre-welding preparation as long as I don't completely fandangle everything else in the process.
A.J.M said:
How much are you willing to spend on it if you want to save it?
Ah, yes, the nitty gritty! The three thousand Newbury 4x4 suggested I can't justify. But if I do as much as I've outlined - I'm seeing an angle grinder and lots of late night encouragement from PH - could I do it all for less than a grand? Would the repair panels, a mobile welder and a fat contingency be covered by a thousand?
Although I had the Range Rover for ten years ('81 to '91 - long time ago) and did a lot myself, it was my only off-roader until the Discovery and it didn't suffer with rust in the way the Discovery has. So this is new to me. The project feels possible, but I don't want to chuck time and money away on a wild rusty goose chase.
Thanks one and all!
In spite of everything, the "Rotten Discovery 1" has just passed its third MoT in my ownership.
With luck I'll replace it this year and, bitten by the 4x4 bug good and proper, I'm considering another early one but this time I'll go for a good condition V8 with all the bits and bobs.
It's good you don't know what fate will bowl at you. I never seriously thought I'd have another of Land Rover's products. Thanks to everyone on PH who has had anything helpful to add to the saga.
With luck I'll replace it this year and, bitten by the 4x4 bug good and proper, I'm considering another early one but this time I'll go for a good condition V8 with all the bits and bobs.
It's good you don't know what fate will bowl at you. I never seriously thought I'd have another of Land Rover's products. Thanks to everyone on PH who has had anything helpful to add to the saga.
DickyC said:
In spite of everything, the "Rotten Discovery 1" has just passed its third MoT in my ownership.
With luck I'll replace it this year and, bitten by the 4x4 bug good and proper, I'm considering another early one but this time I'll go for a good condition V8 with all the bits and bobs.
It's good you don't know what fate will bowl at you. I never seriously thought I'd have another of Land Rover's products. Thanks to everyone on PH who has had anything helpful to add to the saga.
I was just going to comment then I realised the post was 2 years old With luck I'll replace it this year and, bitten by the 4x4 bug good and proper, I'm considering another early one but this time I'll go for a good condition V8 with all the bits and bobs.
It's good you don't know what fate will bowl at you. I never seriously thought I'd have another of Land Rover's products. Thanks to everyone on PH who has had anything helpful to add to the saga.
I bought myself a cheap MIG welder a few years ago and god a friend of a friend who was a welder to show me how to use it. I now do all my own welding and it's not at all a daunting prospect. I have also joined a local Land Rover club and have become very good friends with a professional welder who now 'insists' on doing all my complex jobs. I strongly believe that you can't really run classic cars such as this without being able to turn your hand to most jobs on it. One thing that surprised me - does your Disco really do 38mpg? I've never god a TDi Landy to do much better than 24!!
Good idea with the DIY welding and when I did the mileage more scientifically it turned out to be 34mpg - but only on long runs. Newbury to either Manchester or Salcombe at a steady 60 returns 34. Around town in drops away to around 25.
But who wants a diesel? I've done less than 8,000 miles on two and a bit years. The next one will be a V8.
But who wants a diesel? I've done less than 8,000 miles on two and a bit years. The next one will be a V8.
DickyC said:
But who wants a diesel? I've done less than 8,000 miles on two and a bit years. The next one will be a V8.
I thought that until I started playing in water. Then the hassle of waterproofing a v8 overcame the sedantry nature of a diesel.Now I have my L322 V8 for V8 thrills and my 300tdi Disco Jap reimport for offroad fun
Liszt said:
I thought that until I started playing in water. Then the hassle of waterproofing a v8 overcame the sedantry nature of a diesel.
Now I have my L322 V8 for V8 thrills and my 300tdi Disco Jap reimport for offroad fun
I remember now! Years ago I had a very early Range Rover (chassis 4800A if I remember right) and although I never did any offroading I really thought it could do anything. Ran it through a very deep puddle one day thinking, "This'll show 'em!"Now I have my L322 V8 for V8 thrills and my 300tdi Disco Jap reimport for offroad fun
Cough, splutter.
Got home on four or five cylinders. Just.
Thanks for reminding me. I'll bear it in mind.
300bhp/ton said:
First off you need to go to another MOT centre. That sounds like a grade A con merchant to me.
The floor is easily fixed. Think the repair panel is about £90 but it does need welding. However it's not structural so shouldn't cause an MoT failure!
Mine was rusty too. What I'd did was buy a sheet of aluminum, cut the old floor out and bolted and sealed in the aluminium one. It's fairly thick aluminium but Defenders and Series Landys use it for the boo floor so it's fine. Did mine about 4 years or so ago.
Most exterior panels are aluminium. So not sure what they mean by arches. Again not structural and only need to present no sharp edges to pass an MOT.
Sills can be repaired, but I'd try a local mechanic and see what they'll charge.
If you fancy something different a company called NCF sell a kit called a Sahara. Looks a bit like a Defender but retains the Disco wheelbase. It's a bolt together kit and would offer something a bit different.
And yes you can fit a Defender or Series body. You can either retain the Disco wheelbase and modify the body to fit. Or chop the chassis down to fit the body. Such as an 88" Series III.
Failing that try and find a replacement Disco body to put on you chassis.
Inner front arches on the discos are steel and rot very badly. Dont think they are an MOT failure as they aren't structural. The floor is easily fixed. Think the repair panel is about £90 but it does need welding. However it's not structural so shouldn't cause an MoT failure!
Mine was rusty too. What I'd did was buy a sheet of aluminum, cut the old floor out and bolted and sealed in the aluminium one. It's fairly thick aluminium but Defenders and Series Landys use it for the boo floor so it's fine. Did mine about 4 years or so ago.
Most exterior panels are aluminium. So not sure what they mean by arches. Again not structural and only need to present no sharp edges to pass an MOT.
Sills can be repaired, but I'd try a local mechanic and see what they'll charge.
If you fancy something different a company called NCF sell a kit called a Sahara. Looks a bit like a Defender but retains the Disco wheelbase. It's a bolt together kit and would offer something a bit different.
And yes you can fit a Defender or Series body. You can either retain the Disco wheelbase and modify the body to fit. Or chop the chassis down to fit the body. Such as an 88" Series III.
Failing that try and find a replacement Disco body to put on you chassis.
However the inner arches on the rear are where the rear seat belt anchor points are and they are an MOT failure.
Another reason for the MOT failure on the boot floor is they worry about the exhaust getting the passenger compartment.
bakerstreet said:
Inner front arches on the discos are steel and rot very badly. Dont think they are an MOT failure as they aren't structural.
More hole than wing on mine, the problem then being water in the electrics, with cables and more particularly junction boxes exposed to the elements. My "get by" (on what was after all a free car) was household 240V cable and junction boxes encased in silicone goo. Pretty it isn't, but it does work.How much work did you do on your 'Rotten' Discovery over the past year?
Mines quite good for the age at the moment but it's a bit of a worry since I don't have the time/talent/facilities to do the sort of maintenance it needs. Luckily the guy I bought it from (friend of my old man) is a keen mechanic and available for advice etc.
FWIW mine does 28mpg with a mix of dual carriageway and single carriageway roads and I don't hang about (well, as much as you can 'don't hang about' in a 200TDi anyway
)
Mines quite good for the age at the moment but it's a bit of a worry since I don't have the time/talent/facilities to do the sort of maintenance it needs. Luckily the guy I bought it from (friend of my old man) is a keen mechanic and available for advice etc.
FWIW mine does 28mpg with a mix of dual carriageway and single carriageway roads and I don't hang about (well, as much as you can 'don't hang about' in a 200TDi anyway
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