How do I convert a CV8 from manual to automatic
Discussion
Yep, you need an auto wiring loom etc.
I dont think its too hard, take a head on over to ls1.com.au its a common change. I think there are DIY step by step builds on there.
You can also ru a 4l80e which will handle whatever.
Talk to Gareth about building a hefty 4l60e, he has all the bits to handle that power level. Bowler trans in the US build chunky ones.
The ECU is the same manual to auto, you just need to flash and auto tune in with your new wiring loom and trans etc.
Or you can just run a manual ECU and run a traditional trans that just runs on line pressure like the TH400 which will handle anything, or a powerglide even.. depends on what you want to do.
I dont think its too hard, take a head on over to ls1.com.au its a common change. I think there are DIY step by step builds on there.
You can also ru a 4l80e which will handle whatever.
Talk to Gareth about building a hefty 4l60e, he has all the bits to handle that power level. Bowler trans in the US build chunky ones.
The ECU is the same manual to auto, you just need to flash and auto tune in with your new wiring loom and trans etc.
Or you can just run a manual ECU and run a traditional trans that just runs on line pressure like the TH400 which will handle anything, or a powerglide even.. depends on what you want to do.
Id stick with the 4l60e if you can. Why do you want to change anyway?
You should be able to pick up all the parts from Oz to ship over. You probably need a trans brace/mount, wiring loom, maybe a different propshaft, or at least altered to suit.
Id try some Oz crowd for the parts and talk to someone locally here to fit it all. If you have a monaro you already have the TCM so why buy another one!? The ECU also does the TCM functions. All you have to do is flash an auto tune in.
If you stick with an OEM trans things will fit properly with OEM parts and speedo, shifts etc will all work nice. Probably cheaper too!
http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=99151
You should be able to pick up all the parts from Oz to ship over. You probably need a trans brace/mount, wiring loom, maybe a different propshaft, or at least altered to suit.
Id try some Oz crowd for the parts and talk to someone locally here to fit it all. If you have a monaro you already have the TCM so why buy another one!? The ECU also does the TCM functions. All you have to do is flash an auto tune in.
If you stick with an OEM trans things will fit properly with OEM parts and speedo, shifts etc will all work nice. Probably cheaper too!
http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=99151
ringram said:
Id stick with the 4l60e if you can. Why do you want to change anyway?
You should be able to pick up all the parts from Oz to ship over. You probably need a trans brace/mount, wiring loom, maybe a different propshaft, or at least altered to suit.
Id try some Oz crowd for the parts and talk to someone locally here to fit it all. If you have a monaro you already have the TCM so why buy another one!? The ECU also does the TCM functions. All you have to do is flash an auto tune in.
If you stick with an OEM trans things will fit properly with OEM parts and speedo, shifts etc will all work nice. Probably cheaper too!
www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=99151
You should be able to pick up all the parts from Oz to ship over. You probably need a trans brace/mount, wiring loom, maybe a different propshaft, or at least altered to suit.
Id try some Oz crowd for the parts and talk to someone locally here to fit it all. If you have a monaro you already have the TCM so why buy another one!? The ECU also does the TCM functions. All you have to do is flash an auto tune in.
If you stick with an OEM trans things will fit properly with OEM parts and speedo, shifts etc will all work nice. Probably cheaper too!
www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=99151
A friend of mine has done a few over here in Oz, I will try and ask him.
It is probably all the little trim items that will be hardest to get. Might have to swap over some of the pedals too. Maybe study US parts suppliers as they put pictures up and raid the US GTO for bits or I can help with the very hard stuff to get over there.
Edited by motomk on Tuesday 2nd February 10:26
Rich, my biggest issue is in traffic and it virtually stops me driving it to work, I use a 600 scooter for work everyday and use my wifes car when I drive in. It's 5 miles of stationary traffic, moving 5mph max, I used the car a few times over the last few months and it's a nightmare and impossible. I want to use the car more than one a week and have been looking at a commuter car, add the cost of that, the extra insurance as I would keep the scooter incase I end up in central london again. I have a cost to swap all my parts over to an older auto, everything including brakes, suspension, diff, linkages etc, when you total it all up I'm better getting an auto box for mine. The TCI also has paddle shift and it's a 4L80E on there site. What does the torque converter lockup do exactly too. Might send them over an email and see what they say.
PM the guy above who was asking about auto to manual swap, thats the best idea. Find someone here who wants to swap, then you can both just swap parts over. Job done.
When you say its bad in traffic, is that because the clutch is heavy? Or just the fact you have to work the clutch at all?
The TCI kit wont fit unless you buy their controller and even then you will have to mess it around etc. Far better to do a plug and play swap IMO.
Either way will work but the 4l80e is wider as well so you may have to reshape the trans tunnel etc.
PM MyM8V8 he may even have a spare trans eventually. If motomk is kind enough to give you a kit list that would help.
As he says the inside console and associated parts are probably the worst part.
If it were me Id get a built trans from the US (Pontiac GTO) and the console/loom swap parts from Oz (Unless you find someone here who wants to swap)
You dont "need" a replacement Diff. One of the shops here probably has a 3.42 unless thats what you already have, in which case the auto will make 1st gear pretty munty. Whats stock auto ratio? 3.23 or something? Or 3.08? Diff ratio is personal preference, you can see how it goes with what you have and swap if its too mental.
When you say its bad in traffic, is that because the clutch is heavy? Or just the fact you have to work the clutch at all?
The TCI kit wont fit unless you buy their controller and even then you will have to mess it around etc. Far better to do a plug and play swap IMO.
Either way will work but the 4l80e is wider as well so you may have to reshape the trans tunnel etc.
PM MyM8V8 he may even have a spare trans eventually. If motomk is kind enough to give you a kit list that would help.
As he says the inside console and associated parts are probably the worst part.
If it were me Id get a built trans from the US (Pontiac GTO) and the console/loom swap parts from Oz (Unless you find someone here who wants to swap)
You dont "need" a replacement Diff. One of the shops here probably has a 3.42 unless thats what you already have, in which case the auto will make 1st gear pretty munty. Whats stock auto ratio? 3.23 or something? Or 3.08? Diff ratio is personal preference, you can see how it goes with what you have and swap if its too mental.
Does it not idle in 1st gear? Mine does with no jerking, so I can just let it crawl at 800rpm in first. The heavy clutch doesnt help. I have a centerforce at present. But if your car can idle in gear that makes a huge difference and is why I spent so much time on the tune around idle to get it as smooth as possible. Im just changing over injector values to get it even better and also work on a cold start issue. But with a cammed car that is the number 1 issue I have always had was making sure it will idle cleanly in first for heavy traffic. So its interesting to hear you have the same concern.
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