jobs to do while the diff is out...
Discussion
Removed my diff yesterday in order to get it refurbished - fun in the cold...lying on our backs with our feet sticking out the garaage door in the snow!
I'm planning to put new bushes in, clean paint the chassis, etc but was wondering if there are any jobs I should do while the diff is out?
One thing i was looking at was the lambda sensors...i have removed the exhausts up to the CATS and removed the heat sheild so I can see the sensors - they look OK and I havent has any problems but was wondering how much they cost + should I replace them whilst I have relatively easy access?
thanks in advance
I'm planning to put new bushes in, clean paint the chassis, etc but was wondering if there are any jobs I should do while the diff is out?
One thing i was looking at was the lambda sensors...i have removed the exhausts up to the CATS and removed the heat sheild so I can see the sensors - they look OK and I havent has any problems but was wondering how much they cost + should I replace them whilst I have relatively easy access?
thanks in advance
high52kojak said:
Replace the diff bushes then see if you can be bothered to do anything else!
Ha...I've heard they can be a bit difficult. I've got the two front plates out with two of the bushes in so at least I can attack those but I am dreading the single rear one!Any tips?
I'm trying to configure some sort of 'puller' to force the old one out..?
read the thread about your diff woes - hope you get it sorted.
The two front plate bushes are easy, just put a hacksaw through and carefully cut through the bush, I think I used a stanely knife to cut enough rubber out to allow the hacksaw blade to move. The bush should the come out very easily when its cut through.
The rear one is a little more challenging to say the least! I ended up getting a junior hacksaw blade in there and very slowly I got through it. With that one I pushed the centre tube out with a long bar through the driver side wheel arch and a big hammer.
I tried various pullers but it just stripped the threads on the bolts.
Its worth putting some grease into the prop shaft uni joints while you can get to them ok ( two nipples )
The rear one is a little more challenging to say the least! I ended up getting a junior hacksaw blade in there and very slowly I got through it. With that one I pushed the centre tube out with a long bar through the driver side wheel arch and a big hammer.
I tried various pullers but it just stripped the threads on the bolts.
Its worth putting some grease into the prop shaft uni joints while you can get to them ok ( two nipples )
The top rear one is not that hard when you know how. I did start writing a guide just like my clutch one but haven't finished it yet.
Get a socket the same size as the bush (or a fraction smaller if possible) and bolt it to the bush. Now get a piece of tubing from B&Q that fits over the bolt and onto the socket. Mine was 20mm diameter over a 15mm bolt and was 1 meter long.
The idea is you poke it through the wheel arch and over the bolt and smash F*** out of it. It wont be long before it starts to move. (oil the socket so this doesn't get stuck in place of the bush)
Go easy tho as there is (at least on mine) a brake line 'T' piece that gets right in the way you Dont want to damage this in the process!!
Get a socket the same size as the bush (or a fraction smaller if possible) and bolt it to the bush. Now get a piece of tubing from B&Q that fits over the bolt and onto the socket. Mine was 20mm diameter over a 15mm bolt and was 1 meter long.
The idea is you poke it through the wheel arch and over the bolt and smash F*** out of it. It wont be long before it starts to move. (oil the socket so this doesn't get stuck in place of the bush)
Go easy tho as there is (at least on mine) a brake line 'T' piece that gets right in the way you Dont want to damage this in the process!!
Mad Mark said:
The top rear one is not that hard when you know how. I did start writing a guide just like my clutch one but haven't finished it yet.
Get a socket the same size as the bush (or a fraction smaller if possible) and bolt it to the bush. Now get a piece of tubing from B&Q that fits over the bolt and onto the socket. Mine was 20mm diameter over a 15mm bolt and was 1 meter long.
The idea is you poke it through the wheel arch and over the bolt and smash F*** out of it. It wont be long before it starts to move. (oil the socket so this doesn't get stuck in place of the bush)
Go easy tho as there is (at least on mine) a brake line 'T' piece that gets right in the way you Dont want to damage this in the process!!
Thanks Mark.Get a socket the same size as the bush (or a fraction smaller if possible) and bolt it to the bush. Now get a piece of tubing from B&Q that fits over the bolt and onto the socket. Mine was 20mm diameter over a 15mm bolt and was 1 meter long.
The idea is you poke it through the wheel arch and over the bolt and smash F*** out of it. It wont be long before it starts to move. (oil the socket so this doesn't get stuck in place of the bush)
Go easy tho as there is (at least on mine) a brake line 'T' piece that gets right in the way you Dont want to damage this in the process!!
..assume getting the bush in is an easier process...?
I put in a poly bush, It went in without any problems using a puller tool but am sure a similar use of gbh would work, taking care not to damage the bush. I would get some one under the car to make sure it stays lined up. If using the poly one don't forget to remove the centre metal section as this will allow the bush to compress more.
Putting bushes in is always easier than getting them out.
Greasing the bush and the chassis will also help as will making sure the path of the bush is smooth and has no burrs that will catch the bush and prevent it going back in.
Putting bushes in is always easier than getting them out.
Greasing the bush and the chassis will also help as will making sure the path of the bush is smooth and has no burrs that will catch the bush and prevent it going back in.
I've just replaced mine 
in the end I used a SDS drill with a 600mm bit, poked it through from the passenger side and chain drilled the rubber until it fell out. The outer part I used a junior hacksaw.
Like Quinny said, time to sort out any rust and flaking paint.
in the end I used a SDS drill with a 600mm bit, poked it through from the passenger side and chain drilled the rubber until it fell out. The outer part I used a junior hacksaw.Like Quinny said, time to sort out any rust and flaking paint.
Edited by Rufus Roughcut on Monday 1st February 13:06
Rufus Roughcut said:
I've just replaced mine in the end I used a SDS drill with a 600mm bit, poked it through from the passenger side and chain drilled the rubber until it fell out. The outer part I used a junior hacksaw.
Like Quinny said, time to sort out any rust and flaking paint.
nice work guys! Those chassis are looking very clean. in the end I used a SDS drill with a 600mm bit, poked it through from the passenger side and chain drilled the rubber until it fell out. The outer part I used a junior hacksaw.Like Quinny said, time to sort out any rust and flaking paint.
Edited by Rufus Roughcut on Monday 1st February 13:06
Doing mine white to suit the existing finish - wonder why cerbs have white chassis?
Mad Mark said:
Greasing the bush and the chassis will also help as will making sure the path of the bush is smooth and has no burrs that will catch the bush and prevent it going back in.
Try not to cut yourself though, remember a burr in the hand is worth two in the bush.Some types of poly bush come in two halves, one goes in each side. These are apparently easy to fit.
Quinny said:
peteA said:
Doing mine white to suit the existing finish - wonder why cerbs have white chassis?
I suspect the colour of the chassis, was dependant on what powder was on the shelf at the time
Seriously though, as far as I'm aware, early cars, like mine 94 and before were mostly silver..
Later cars were mostly white, Interestingly V8S's were red
I've seen Griff's and Chims with silver and white... Not very familier with Cerbs, but I would expect most to be white
Edited by lewis s on Monday 1st February 17:29
peteA said:
Rufus Roughcut said:
I've just replaced mine in the end I used a SDS drill with a 600mm bit, poked it through from the passenger side and chain drilled the rubber until it fell out. The outer part I used a junior hacksaw.
Like Quinny said, time to sort out any rust and flaking paint.
nice work guys! Those chassis are looking very clean. in the end I used a SDS drill with a 600mm bit, poked it through from the passenger side and chain drilled the rubber until it fell out. The outer part I used a junior hacksaw.Like Quinny said, time to sort out any rust and flaking paint.
Edited by Rufus Roughcut on Monday 1st February 13:06
Doing mine white to suit the existing finish - wonder why cerbs have white chassis?
The final coat will be black, my theory being it will be easier to spot any chips.
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