Push Button start Advice please
Push Button start Advice please
Author
Discussion

moschops_72

Original Poster:

439 posts

277 months

Monday 9th February 2004
quotequote all
Hi,

Just thinking about fitting a push button start to my Chimaera, would i be right in thinking all i really need to do is to bypass the switch on the ignition barrell, and connect that to the starter button?
Answers on a postcard to me

Thanks in advance for any help offered.

Jeff

greenv8s

31,014 posts

313 months

Monday 9th February 2004
quotequote all
Electrically yes, but that seems to neatly disable all the standard security measures and also allow you to start the engine (or at least crank it over) with the steering lock on, while the engine is already running, etc.

ribol

11,991 posts

287 months

Monday 9th February 2004
quotequote all
greenv8s said:
Electrically yes, but that seems to neatly disable all the standard security measures and also allow you to start the engine (or at least crank it over) with the steering lock on, while the engine is already running, etc.

Not if you connect the new switch in parallel with the original cranking part of the ignition switch. You will end up with the choice of either to crank and start car. Probably best to use a relay if new switch not up to doing the whole job reliably.

Ivan

GreenV8S

31,014 posts

313 months

Monday 9th February 2004
quotequote all
ribol said:


Not if you connect the new switch in parallel with the original cranking part of the ignition switch. You will end up with the choice of either to crank and start car. Probably best to use a relay if new switch not up to doing the whole job reliably.

Ivan


Are you sure? The starter circuit is permanently live so there would be nothing to stop you cranking it over at any time. I guess you could power it off the switched ignition circuit (via a relay, because the ignition switch isn't exactly over specified) and that would work kind of OK.

Nacnud

2,190 posts

298 months

Monday 9th February 2004
quotequote all
Peninsula can supply/fit a rather neat button as modelled by this Bristol Tiv.

Don't ask me how, but the light goes out after the engine is started!

heliox

450 posts

291 months

Monday 9th February 2004
quotequote all
Nice, how much?

h

moschops_72

Original Poster:

439 posts

277 months

Tuesday 10th February 2004
quotequote all
That's what i was thinking. I suppose i should have been a bit clearer initially, in the fact that i would still need to put the keys in ignition, but instead of turning the key to the spring loaded 3rd position, just run the switchgear from Pos 3 to the start button.
Now, where to put it?...

shnozz

30,628 posts

300 months

Tuesday 10th February 2004
quotequote all
keep us advised on this one will you mate, I like the look of that myself

ribol

11,991 posts

287 months

Tuesday 10th February 2004
quotequote all
GreenV8S said:

ribol said:


Not if you connect the new switch in parallel with the original cranking part of the ignition switch. You will end up with the choice of either to crank and start car. Probably best to use a relay if new switch not up to doing the whole job reliably.

Ivan



Are you sure? The starter circuit is permanently live so there would be nothing to stop you cranking it over at any time. I guess you could power it off the switched ignition circuit (via a relay, because the ignition switch isn't exactly over specified) and that would work kind of OK.

Yes. The starter is permanently live but the starter solenoid mounted on it is only switched live - when you turn the ignition key to the spring loaded position. Connecting the new switch in parallel with the original will not affect the alarm/immobiliser in any way if done correctly (near the ignition switch). Having the new switch illuminated when “active” could also be easily done, having it go out when the engine has started would take a bit more work.

Ivan

Podie

46,649 posts

304 months

Tuesday 10th February 2004
quotequote all
I think Richbrook or similar do start buttons and kits... then just get a nicer (less tacky) looking button and fit.

Honda S2000 button is nice... big 'n' red..

raceboy

13,890 posts

309 months

Tuesday 10th February 2004
quotequote all
And the man from Richbrook (chippy69) is a PHer so I would imagine a deal could be done

david beer

3,982 posts

296 months

Tuesday 10th February 2004
quotequote all
to get the LED to go out,connect it to the ignition light, that goes out when the engine is started. It also means the button is inop when the engine is running.

greenv8s

31,014 posts

313 months

Tuesday 10th February 2004
quotequote all
Don't think it is as simple as that - the no-charge warning light is driven from both sides (switched ignition on one side and alternator output on the other) and is part of the circuit used to kick the alternator into life. I suspect you'd need to find an engine-running signal from elsewhere, but the only one I know of will be the one driving the fuel pump, but you need to differentiate between cranking and running.

ribol

11,991 posts

287 months

Tuesday 10th February 2004
quotequote all
david beer said:
to get the LED to go out,connect it to the ignition light, that goes out when the engine is started. It also means the button is inop when the engine is running.

Cannot see a problem with connecting an led to ignition light, not too sure how it would render it inop though.
There is also the oil light switch route to consider.

Ivan

greenv8s

31,014 posts

313 months

Tuesday 10th February 2004
quotequote all
ribol said:

Cannot see a problem with connecting an led to ignition light, not too sure how it would render it inop though.
There is also the oil light switch route to consider.

Ivan


How are you thinking of wiring it in? Remember the no-charger warning light is driven from both sides, and is carefully specified to draw the right amount of current to bootstrap the alternator.

poorpeet

837 posts

274 months

Tuesday 10th February 2004
quotequote all
Demon tweeks do a range of illuminated push button starters for between £35 to £50. They come with instructions too!
Now, where's me Nova?

plotloss

67,280 posts

299 months

Tuesday 10th February 2004
quotequote all
www.richbrook.co.uk

They have some lovely ones, as fitted to Nobles and crap Mini's

david beer

3,982 posts

296 months

Tuesday 10th February 2004
quotequote all
It works a treat, the PD between IGN and alternator output, allows the relay to work. Coil to the relay gets 12v + from ignition and the NEG through the alternator, its only around 100 ma. You can even press and hold, it will just drop the relay as it starts up.

spend

12,581 posts

280 months

Tuesday 10th February 2004
quotequote all
david beer said:
It works a treat, the PD between IGN and alternator output, allows the relay to work. Coil to the relay gets 12v + from ignition and the NEG through the alternator, its only around 100 ma. You can even press and hold, it will just drop the relay as it starts up.


I thought the alternator had no output until 2000rpm - ie ignition light stays on until engine revved.

hut49

3,544 posts

291 months

Tuesday 10th February 2004
quotequote all
plotloss said:
www.richbrook.co.uk

Nice link to plenty goodies! Thanks