Taimar/M Bonnet adjustment
Discussion
All
the chassis restoration has drawn to a close and I'm refitting the car.
One thing that seems to have gone wrong since the dismantling is the bonnet adjustment; it's at an angle such that the pins don't line up when trying to shut the bonnet. The search on here isn't throwing up any suggestions.
I've been stumped by the adjusters; one nut inside the chassis that can barely take a spanner, and there is one on the outside, and one on the end of the rubber that clearly isn't meant to be adjusted.
Can someone put me out of my misery and explain how to loosen off one side so I can move it forward in the chassis rail and get the bonnet sitting true. I'm guessing undoing the one in the chassis rail is the key, but it seems like hard work !!
Many thanks, and apologies for lack of daytime responses.
cheers
Mike
the chassis restoration has drawn to a close and I'm refitting the car.
One thing that seems to have gone wrong since the dismantling is the bonnet adjustment; it's at an angle such that the pins don't line up when trying to shut the bonnet. The search on here isn't throwing up any suggestions.
I've been stumped by the adjusters; one nut inside the chassis that can barely take a spanner, and there is one on the outside, and one on the end of the rubber that clearly isn't meant to be adjusted.
Can someone put me out of my misery and explain how to loosen off one side so I can move it forward in the chassis rail and get the bonnet sitting true. I'm guessing undoing the one in the chassis rail is the key, but it seems like hard work !!
Many thanks, and apologies for lack of daytime responses.
cheers
Mike
mgaut said:
All
the chassis restoration has drawn to a close and I'm refitting the car.
One thing that seems to have gone wrong since the dismantling is the bonnet adjustment; it's at an angle such that the pins don't line up when trying to shut the bonnet. The search on here isn't throwing up any suggestions.
I've been stumped by the adjusters; one nut inside the chassis that can barely take a spanner, and there is one on the outside, and one on the end of the rubber that clearly isn't meant to be adjusted.
Can someone put me out of my misery and explain how to loosen off one side so I can move it forward in the chassis rail and get the bonnet sitting true. I'm guessing undoing the one in the chassis rail is the key, but it seems like hard work !!
Many thanks, and apologies for lack of daytime responses.
cheers
Mike
Mike, the chassis restoration has drawn to a close and I'm refitting the car.
One thing that seems to have gone wrong since the dismantling is the bonnet adjustment; it's at an angle such that the pins don't line up when trying to shut the bonnet. The search on here isn't throwing up any suggestions.
I've been stumped by the adjusters; one nut inside the chassis that can barely take a spanner, and there is one on the outside, and one on the end of the rubber that clearly isn't meant to be adjusted.
Can someone put me out of my misery and explain how to loosen off one side so I can move it forward in the chassis rail and get the bonnet sitting true. I'm guessing undoing the one in the chassis rail is the key, but it seems like hard work !!
Many thanks, and apologies for lack of daytime responses.
cheers
Mike
Yes, from what I'm reading, you guessed right. You have to slacken off the nuts inside the chassis frame extensions. You only have to loosen them enough to slide the hinge. Hold the one inside the tube and turn the one outside.
The way I'm reading what you've written, is that you have a threaded stud with three nuts. See if you can't find a bolt to replace this.
B.
many thanks Bernard; I'm sure I've tried that but happy to give it another go.
Think I'll try tomorrow night, as it's getting a bit cold out there. Car hasn't turned a wheel since December, apart from a quick blast when it threw the otter switch and limped home; will fit the repainted wheels tomorrow night and get the spanners out.
thanks again
Mike
Think I'll try tomorrow night, as it's getting a bit cold out there. Car hasn't turned a wheel since December, apart from a quick blast when it threw the otter switch and limped home; will fit the repainted wheels tomorrow night and get the spanners out.
thanks again
Mike
The start point is to remove the striker pins and springs from their mounting on the spreader bar at the top of the bonnet (at this point ensure that the penny washers on the internal side of the spreader bar have the edge cut off so that they cannot limit travel when these are adjusted) AS these are the height adjusters to the scuttle and NO load locators.
Ensure that the 3/4 locknuts on the eyelet (with the rubber bush in) undo and ensure that the eyelets can spin in and out (this sets the height) and then get 2 x 3 1/2 inch 3/8 set bolts, 1 x nyloc nut, 1 x 3/8 locknut and have ready a handful of 3/8 washers.... Mask the scuttle and top of the bonnet to protect the paint AND mark with a pen the centre point of the catches up on the scuttle.
With help, and a plank of wood and a scissor jack placed under the centre front of the bonnet place the bonnet on the car.
Spin the eyelets out to line up with the slots on the chassis and lock up.
Push the 3/8 set through the eyelet and spin on the 3/8 locknut and 1 washer THEN push that through the slotted hole, add a washer and the nyloc (from the inside of the chassis) and spin the bolt through until the nyloc is fully threaded THEN lock the 3/8 locknut...so that this is a pin that is locked to the chassis.
Remove the scissor jack to allow the bonnet to settle and check the lines of the bonnet against the wings and scuttle resetting the height and forward/aft as required.
ONCE these are correct set the bonnet R/L using the washers between the eyelet bush and the locknuts as required. OBVIOUSLY the art form is to cut the 3/8 set bolt leaving ONE single washer against it's head (and a minimum of one against the lock nut) having chopped this down to the minimum required and leaving the rubber bush to rotate freely with no side load.
ONCE this is all in place copy the marks from the scuttle onto the edge of the bonnet and set the striker pins onto the spreader bar and offer then to be closed ...they should be near as falling into the catch ...close open a few times to check then set the height against the scuttle (the gap to the scuttle should be already set and adjust the striker pin forward or aft within the spreader bar so that there is no stress on the pin).
Adrian@
Ensure that the 3/4 locknuts on the eyelet (with the rubber bush in) undo and ensure that the eyelets can spin in and out (this sets the height) and then get 2 x 3 1/2 inch 3/8 set bolts, 1 x nyloc nut, 1 x 3/8 locknut and have ready a handful of 3/8 washers.... Mask the scuttle and top of the bonnet to protect the paint AND mark with a pen the centre point of the catches up on the scuttle.
With help, and a plank of wood and a scissor jack placed under the centre front of the bonnet place the bonnet on the car.
Spin the eyelets out to line up with the slots on the chassis and lock up.
Push the 3/8 set through the eyelet and spin on the 3/8 locknut and 1 washer THEN push that through the slotted hole, add a washer and the nyloc (from the inside of the chassis) and spin the bolt through until the nyloc is fully threaded THEN lock the 3/8 locknut...so that this is a pin that is locked to the chassis.
Remove the scissor jack to allow the bonnet to settle and check the lines of the bonnet against the wings and scuttle resetting the height and forward/aft as required.
ONCE these are correct set the bonnet R/L using the washers between the eyelet bush and the locknuts as required. OBVIOUSLY the art form is to cut the 3/8 set bolt leaving ONE single washer against it's head (and a minimum of one against the lock nut) having chopped this down to the minimum required and leaving the rubber bush to rotate freely with no side load.
ONCE this is all in place copy the marks from the scuttle onto the edge of the bonnet and set the striker pins onto the spreader bar and offer then to be closed ...they should be near as falling into the catch ...close open a few times to check then set the height against the scuttle (the gap to the scuttle should be already set and adjust the striker pin forward or aft within the spreader bar so that there is no stress on the pin).
Adrian@
Edited by Adrian@ on Wednesday 10th February 07:42
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