Idle adjustment
Idle adjustment
Author
Discussion

cuneus

Original Poster:

5,963 posts

272 months

Wednesday 10th February 2010
quotequote all
Some references suggest being able to adjust with a 3/16 socket but this is what I found ?




Wedg1e

27,040 posts

295 months

Wednesday 10th February 2010
quotequote all
Yep, that's usual. Normally about as chewed as that one, too!

cuneus

Original Poster:

5,963 posts

272 months

Wednesday 10th February 2010
quotequote all
Wedg1e said:
Yep, that's usual. Normally about as chewed as that one, too!
Hmm being mechanically inept how do you adjust that ?

Wedg1e

27,040 posts

295 months

Wednesday 10th February 2010
quotequote all
cuneus said:
Wedg1e said:
Yep, that's usual. Normally about as chewed as that one, too!
Hmm being mechanically inept how do you adjust that ?
Find an old wood chisel, preferably one that's been used as a crowbar, and... seriously, it should be a slotted screwdriver. The screw isn't usually particularly tight (if it is, it's either bottomed-out or glopped in threadlock).
Quarter of a turn in either direction should tell you what you want to know.
For specific instructions, consult any Haynes manual that covers the RV8 (SD1, Range Rover) or wait for someone to come along and sell you a .pdf. wink I bet even Google would turn up something.
You really need a CO meter when you play with this adjustment (it's the air mixture, not the idle speed)... in fact before you start, make sure the throttle plate is set correctly and you have no air leaks! Not lecturing, honest, just not sure what you may or may not have already done smile

cuneus

Original Poster:

5,963 posts

272 months

Wednesday 10th February 2010
quotequote all
Wedg1e said:
cuneus said:
Wedg1e said:
Yep, that's usual. Normally about as chewed as that one, too!
Hmm being mechanically inept how do you adjust that ?
Find an old wood chisel, preferably one that's been used as a crowbar, and... seriously, it should be a slotted screwdriver. The screw isn't usually particularly tight (if it is, it's either bottomed-out or glopped in threadlock).
Quarter of a turn in either direction should tell you what you want to know.
For specific instructions, consult any Haynes manual that covers the RV8 (SD1, Range Rover) or wait for someone to come along and sell you a .pdf. wink I bet even Google would turn up something.
You really need a CO meter when you play with this adjustment (it's the air mixture, not the idle speed)... in fact before you start, make sure the throttle plate is set correctly and you have no air leaks! Not lecturing, honest, just not sure what you may or may not have already done smile
OK thanks

have the Gunson digital gas tester - found plenty of info on how to adjust!

Background to this is the moronic replacement of FPR with a standard Land Rover part. Fuel pressure was 30psi and was running dangerously lean (DYNO test was aborted)

Fitted a Weber alpha adjustable (together with a pre filter) and pressure is now 40psi but idle is down




rev-erend

21,623 posts

314 months

Wednesday 10th February 2010
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Flapper or hotwire .. as it makes a difference.

cuneus

Original Poster:

5,963 posts

272 months

Wednesday 10th February 2010
quotequote all
rev-erend said:
Flapper or hotwire .. as it makes a difference.
Flapper

Wedg1e

27,040 posts

295 months

Wednesday 10th February 2010
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rolleyes Oh FFS. Sorry, it IS the idle speed, NOT the idle air mixture. That'll teach me to post while eating lunch and repairing a hard drive at the same time biggrin
So the CO is adjusted by the screw on the AFM; if you just need to adjust the idle speed then yes, the screw on the throttle body is the one you want.

Off to scourge myself with an old timing chain. Blame my age (it's me birthdee biggrin)

cuneus

Original Poster:

5,963 posts

272 months

Wednesday 10th February 2010
quotequote all
No problem and thanks - will check the idle mixture once I've managed to set the idle

Edited by cuneus on Wednesday 10th February 15:43

rev-erend

21,623 posts

314 months

Wednesday 10th February 2010
quotequote all
Happy Birthday Wedgie.. partybeer

Edited by rev-erend on Wednesday 10th February 15:57

mike.williams

135 posts

228 months

Wednesday 10th February 2010
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Wedg1e said:
Off to scourge myself with an old timing chain. Blame my age (it's me birthdee biggrin)
Happy Birthday Ian beerparty

Just don't do one lash per year... there'll be nowt left of you to help us all out!!
ATB, Mike

honestjohntoo

576 posts

246 months

Wednesday 10th February 2010
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Someone said:
You really need a CO meter when you play with this adjustment (it's the air mixture, not the idle speed)... in fact before you start, make sure the throttle plate is set correctly and you have no air leaks! Not lecturing, honest, just not sure what you may or may not have already done smile
Up to this point I'm thinking, what a load of old tosh! Even free pdf's have got better guidance than that. wink But then

He said:
Off to scourge myself with an old timing chain. Blame my age (it's me birthdee)
so thats OK then. Happy Birthday Ian, My 72 also weigh heavily at times eek .

Moving On! With 30 psi perversely low and running dangerously lean, so too 40 psi is very high for a standard flapper system, blackening spark plugs and emptying wallets. Try 36 psi.

Moving on! The idle speed and CO controls are somewhat interactive on idle speed, and having adjusted each, once, go around again, ending with the idle adjust.

Archive of contextual reading material on all associated Efi components (for anybody needing it) ... here


Edited by honestjohntoo on Wednesday 10th February 23:52

350zwelgje

1,820 posts

291 months

Friday 12th February 2010
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And if you have problems adjusting idle (like I had) and just escaped to MOTs on CO...., a cure could be to unscrew the CO-adjuster on the AFM completely, CLEAN it, put it back and set idle & CO.
Worked for me and can have CO and idle set as I want since then.

Rob