Drivers door window not lowering/raising

[rustybkts]

Just sorted the heater fan by locating the controller and plugging the ribbon cable back in as it was falling out. Will secure with tape as the factory should have done.

The day before sorting the above, my drivers door window refused to lower or raise when unlocking the door.
I read somewhere that unplugging and re-connecting the controller can sort this and it does raise correctly when the door is closed but still not when I open/close the door again.

Any ideas as I cannot remember where I read the answer to this and it is damaging the body where the window hits it.

[FUBAR]

More than likely the connector in the door behind the door card http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=905...

Easy enough job that even I've managed it successfully twice

[rustybkts]

FUBAR said:

More than likely the connector in the door behind the door card http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=905...

Easy enough job that even I've managed it successfully twice

Thanks for that. I new it was somewhere in the forum but couldn't find it.

[greencerb]

I had this with mine....it was the reed switch mounted in the bottom of the door which picks up on a magnet in the sill. You can get the replacement part from RS for less than a tenner the part number is listed on the equivalent part number thread in the cerbera forum.

[CERB BOY]

Just sorted out the same fault,all I did was to disconect live terminal on battery and then re-connected.All back to normal

[rockwarrior25]

I had the same problem and opened up the contol box in the boot which was a bit moist inside. I emptied out the loose glue and hair dryerd it, put it back together and plugged it in - Hey presto!!!

[rustybkts]

Found the problem, it was the magnetic reed switch at the base of the door.

I have ordered the switch from RS as mentioned in the forum (455-3744) but that one has three wires.
There is one with only two wires (289-7957) which I also ordered to try out and I will report back.
The two wire one looks identical to the original one.

I also sorted the non functioning petrol tank meter (loose wire), mended the park switch on the wiper motor and found a hardened washer pipe which had split.

I just have to check the rad fan operation as the engine almost overheated a few days ago in slow traffic.

Blimey! I've almost bottomed all the electrical faults.

[greencerb]

You can fit the three wire switch, just cut back the one you don't need. I Can't remember the colours to use off the top of my head but happy to check mine if you need me to.

[rustybkts]

Having fitted the three wire magnetic reed switch in normally open mode and finding that the window worked topsy-turvy, I wired the switch as normally closed (ignore green wire) and the window worked correctly.

I tested it one or two times more and then nothing happened! All the doors and boot lock ignore all attempts to open now.
I tried the remote locking but that only flashed the indicators, signalling that that was working.

I am assuming that I have over stressed a fuse but surely the boot control cannot be on the same fuse can it?
As the manual door release is in the boot, how do you open the boot without a jig saw.

[JensenA]

You have to open the boot - do you know how to?

YHM

Edited by JensenA on Wednesday 17th February 09:43

[rustybkts]

JensenA said:

You have to open the boot - do you know how to?

YHM

Edited by JensenA on Wednesday 17th February 09:43

Thanks for the Email.

Now all I have to do is get the bugger working again.

I will try unplugging the controller first to re-set it as I note the doors have different fuses so it cannot be a fuse unless the controller feed fuse has blown.

Edited by rustybkts on Wednesday 17th February 11:08

[greencerb]

Sounds like you are getting all the problems I had with mine!! Check the power supply plug to the door control unit, my car kept doing the same thing, it turned out to be a poor connection in the plastic plug which has the power wires (the one with only 2 wires). I cut the plug off and fitted speaker crimps to connect the cable directly to the plug on the box.....haven't had a problem since!

[rustybkts]

Looks like my control unit has given up the ghost.
Even with just the power plug (two wires) and relay plugs fitted, the control unit just sits there pulsing the boot lock. The big plug has all the inputs to the box and the box should do nothing with it unplugged.
I have been quoted £350 + VAT from one breaker who is looking for someone to re-manufacture these units.
The window and door sequence of operation is very simple so I may have a go programming a cheap £70 PLC.

Any other ideas?

[Gazzab]

Paint your car orange, fit an air horn, 'weld' the doors shut and remove the windows?

[JensenA]

When you say 'pulsing' do you mean the Boot lock solonoid is clicking? If it is just clicking then that should be OK. You just need to do some mechanical adjustments - undo the nuts on the boot badge a bit, or adjust the boot lock.
Ask a nearby Cerb owner if they can pop over and switch the control box over to confirm or rule out one problem.

[rustybkts]

JensenA said:

When you say 'pulsing' do you mean the Boot lock solonoid is clicking? If it is just clicking then that should be OK. You just need to do some mechanical adjustments - undo the nuts on the boot badge a bit, or adjust the boot lock.
Ask a nearby Cerb owner if they can pop over and switch the control box over to confirm or rule out one problem.

I had wondered this morning if the badge/switch was sticking and will check tonight. It was a bit cold last night and the brain wasn't working very well.

Nothing is working apart from the boot lock pulsing but that may be down to the program design in the chips. Why there are two programmable chips for the very simple job this box is doing is beyond me.
Maybe it is one for each side and they have identical programs.
Is there anyone from TVR out there who has any knowledge of these controllers or diagrams of the internal circuitry to save me time?

[rustybkts]

Control box is definitely stuffed as it just pulses the boot lock without the input plug fitted.
Second hand boxes are crazy price and I can do a PLC one cheaper.

I prefer things standard though so may have a go at programming new pic chips as these are the only part that can fail with this problem.
Would anyone else be interested if I could repair these boards?

Another thing, what is it about silicon sealant and TVR! The control boxes are full of it. Hadn't they heard of screws?

[rustybkts]

Final entry to this thread is that Bell Hill Garage have kindly supplied me with a 2004 Door and Window module for a very affordable £80 plus VAT and postage which arrived today.

Someone else's loss is my gain I'm afraid as there seem to be too many TVR's heading towards the breakers yard at the moment judging by the many Ebay ads.

Insurance companies seem to write off very repairable cars these days and /or mark them for life with category D.
This category system was brought in to indicate that a conventional car damaged in an accident had been repaired, and that its structure could be weakened.

Cars such as Lotus and TVR can take substantial damage to the skin but have little or no damage to the chassis.
Its a shame to lose cars with minor cosmetic damage from the pool that are left because of this.