Discussion
I know a number of you have done full or majority restorations on your Cerbs, but a lot of the forum posts focus mainly on chassis re-furbs and suspension fettling, etc. Did you re-wire or rebuild the loom too?
Has anyone re-wired without a restoration?
If you did, did you notice any real difference, and what did you modify over the standard set up?
Interested to know, given the weakness that TVR wiring tends to be...
Has anyone re-wired without a restoration?
If you did, did you notice any real difference, and what did you modify over the standard set up?
Interested to know, given the weakness that TVR wiring tends to be...
When I refurbished the interior I didn't do a rewire as such, but I did replace the speaker cables, add a loom for an in car PC & DIN touch screen (with direct connection to the ECU), add fog lamp repeated in the high-beam warning light, and most importantly undid, cleaned and reassembled every earth point and connection plug that I could find.
I don't think that the Cerbera wiring loom is problematic as such. What is more of an issue is that a lot of the connector plugs arent great quality and are getting old. Earthing points are critical as being a GRP body as they form the only return circuits. Most electrical gremlins can be tracked down to one or other of these issues (steering wheel ribon cable being the exception).
I don't think that the Cerbera wiring loom is problematic as such. What is more of an issue is that a lot of the connector plugs arent great quality and are getting old. Earthing points are critical as being a GRP body as they form the only return circuits. Most electrical gremlins can be tracked down to one or other of these issues (steering wheel ribon cable being the exception).
morebeanz said:
What about the whole 100 amp fuse saga though, and the issue of headlight power? Wouldn't it be appropriate to revise that?
Or do you think it really is just a "connection" issue?
I was thinking more of the internal wiring - doors, mirrors accessories etcOr do you think it really is just a "connection" issue?
My HIDs are wired straight to the battery too. Directly powering headlights and using the existing wiring to switch a realy instead is always a worthwhile modification, especialy given the propensity for the lighting control box in the boot to overheat the feed terminal.
Personaly I never had a 100 Amp fuse problem, but I think a lot of problems stem from the design of he fuse and holder. There are other types of fuse available that might be a worthwhile upgrade if you have trouble.
Ian, in addition to the headlight wiring direct from the battery (done this and never a problem since), I'd also get the door buttons and door connectors swapped out with something a little more waterproof (superseal connectors for instance). Other than that check all the earth points/straps and maybe swap out the starter cable.
Steve_T said:
Ian, in addition to the headlight wiring direct from the battery (done this and never a problem since), I'd also get the door buttons and door connectors swapped out with something a little more waterproof (superseal connectors for instance). Other than that check all the earth points/straps and maybe swap out the starter cable.
Thanks, Steve.I don't have a problem at the moment, so don't get the wrong idea, but I am compiling my list of stuff that I would do when I have the chance!
Hopefully see you at the next meet...
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