inlet manifold differences?
Discussion
Hi
i recently bought a gas flowed inlet manifold for the 400se and have just started to swap them over. When i finally got the old inlet manifold off and compared it to the new one, one of the water hoses to and from the heater matrix? passes through the original casting, however the new one isn't tapped on one side (the right hand side pipe on the right hand side picture) see photos
What purpose does this serve, do i need to get the new one tapped to make it the same or can i just join to two pipes together to make the flow/return to the heater?
i recently bought a gas flowed inlet manifold for the 400se and have just started to swap them over. When i finally got the old inlet manifold off and compared it to the new one, one of the water hoses to and from the heater matrix? passes through the original casting, however the new one isn't tapped on one side (the right hand side pipe on the right hand side picture) see photos
What purpose does this serve, do i need to get the new one tapped to make it the same or can i just join to two pipes together to make the flow/return to the heater?
Edited by johntom on Tuesday 16th February 21:29
Arfe you talking about the 2 heater pipes on the unpainted manifold on the left ..
If the gas flowed manifold has come from a Griff/Chim then their heater pipes take a different route to ours.
Just use your old heater pipes and either get a tap done or cable ties then to anything convienient at each end.
If the gas flowed manifold has come from a Griff/Chim then their heater pipes take a different route to ours.
Just use your old heater pipes and either get a tap done or cable ties then to anything convienient at each end.
rev-erend said:
Just use your old heater pipes...
Last time I tried to unscrew one of those from under the manifold I nearly dicked myself. It was corroded solid. The reason I wanted it out was that the pipe itself had rusted through near the back of the engine and under pressure was pumping a fine mist of water out. Took bloody ages to find! I ended up cutting a section off and welding on a length cut from a scrap manifold.Hi
i am not sure if its from a chim/griff but it probably is.
The cast area on the the red manifold (where the pipes would pass through, top right on pic.) only has 1 hole near the thermostat housing (which is tapped) instead of the 2 on the alloy maniflod (inlet and outlet). Having spoke to 3 engine rebuilders, none of which have the neccessary tooling to tap the second hole (due to the lenght of drill required etc) i wondered if i could either:
a: have the hole near the thermostat capped off on the red one and then join the pipes under the manifold (like the second pipe is on the alloy one) or,
b: have a pipe fitting with an Tee / elbow made and fitted into the existing hole in the red one (near the thermostat) and join the pipes at the inlet / tee piece and then send it under the manifold, via the elbow, to meet the heater matrix end?
any ideas, i am not too sure why the 2 manifolds are different?
i am not sure if its from a chim/griff but it probably is.
The cast area on the the red manifold (where the pipes would pass through, top right on pic.) only has 1 hole near the thermostat housing (which is tapped) instead of the 2 on the alloy maniflod (inlet and outlet). Having spoke to 3 engine rebuilders, none of which have the neccessary tooling to tap the second hole (due to the lenght of drill required etc) i wondered if i could either:
a: have the hole near the thermostat capped off on the red one and then join the pipes under the manifold (like the second pipe is on the alloy one) or,
b: have a pipe fitting with an Tee / elbow made and fitted into the existing hole in the red one (near the thermostat) and join the pipes at the inlet / tee piece and then send it under the manifold, via the elbow, to meet the heater matrix end?
any ideas, i am not too sure why the 2 manifolds are different?
At least one of my spare manifolds has that tapping undrilled; I'm certain it was ex-Range Rover so they probably had different heater plumbing.
Can't see why you couldn't drill it freehand with a flexible drive (or even a right-angle drill adapter) and tap it; it'll probably be something like 3/8" BSP.
Can't see why you couldn't drill it freehand with a flexible drive (or even a right-angle drill adapter) and tap it; it'll probably be something like 3/8" BSP.
Finally got the inlet manifold on, now the next problem. The original water temperature sensor(transmittor?) is located next to the thermostat housing (facing towards the front of the car). The 'new one' has a larger threaded hole but to the side of the thermostat housing (facing towards the driver's side of the car).
Does anyone know if i can get an adaptor to make the original 5/8 unf? (small threaded) sensor fit in the new larger hole (1/2" bsp thread?) Or would the sensor that would have originally been in the 'new manifold' work and what model land rover is it off?
Does anyone know if i can get an adaptor to make the original 5/8 unf? (small threaded) sensor fit in the new larger hole (1/2" bsp thread?) Or would the sensor that would have originally been in the 'new manifold' work and what model land rover is it off?
Edited by johntom on Tuesday 23 February 20:25
Edited by johntom on Tuesday 23 February 20:28
johntom said:
Hi
is the sensor in question (located near the thermostat housing) the water temperature transmittor or is it the fan switch?
If there's no drilling for a sender near the thermostat housing I'd say it was the gauge sender, repositioned, perhaps to get it away from a potential airlock spot.is the sensor in question (located near the thermostat housing) the water temperature transmittor or is it the fan switch?
The fan switch would tend to be in the radiator or a hose fitting.
Hi
finally got everything back together, inlet manifold on (all new gaskets etc), hotspot removed, thermal insulator between trumpet base and manifold, new dist cap, rotor arm (lucas), magnecor leads, bosch coil etc. The car starts first time, ticks over well but doesn't seem to have that much grunt on the road (less than i remember - when in theory it should have more?).
Is there something obvious that may need adjusting?
finally got everything back together, inlet manifold on (all new gaskets etc), hotspot removed, thermal insulator between trumpet base and manifold, new dist cap, rotor arm (lucas), magnecor leads, bosch coil etc. The car starts first time, ticks over well but doesn't seem to have that much grunt on the road (less than i remember - when in theory it should have more?).
Is there something obvious that may need adjusting?
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff