Front camber - creating adjustability
Discussion
I remember taking to a chap at an event 2 or 3 years ago (could have been a BBWF) who had adjustable camber on the front of his Wedge, possibly a 400SE. I think his garage, in Scotland, had modified the stub axle with some sort of adjustable link. Does this ring any bells with anyone? Would be interested in looking at getting this done myself.
7.
7.
MJG280 said:
Is there not less stress on an upper wishbone?
You'd think so, what with the exertions of the road spring vs. load. The top 'bone is more for location and sideways forces. I've never seen a knackered upper balljoint but I've seen a few lower ones die, which tends to suport this.Number 7 said:
rev-erend said:
THe SEAC has an adjustable bottom wish bone with a spherical rod end .. I'll see if I can take a picture.
Cheers Rev.7.
From the side :

Another side view

Underneath :

I'm pretty sure Richard Thorpe used to convert existing wedge front suspension .. or at least it was in his little catalog.
Hi Paul, Rev,
Have not been on the forum for a week or so.
(a) You are correct it was my car.
(b) The lower suspension arm (the Ford sheet metal fabrication) was cut at the inner end to remove the "lower bush housing" - cut off abt 3 inches or so, if I remember correctly.
A thick metal plate was then welded across the cut end, with a drilled and threaded hole to accept a rose joint (which I think came from Demon Tweeks)
The original inner bolt for the suspension was re-used, with spacers to centralise the rose joint.
I believe the arrangement is similar to SEACs.
I have some photos somewhere that I cannot find at present.
My car is currently at D&C Trim in Blackpool getting a new hood.
I will take some more photos and post them after I get the car back in about 1 weeks time.
A local TVR independent did the modification work, as the welding has to be good quality.
(c) Rev's photos show the arrangement to be similar, but I am not sure if the lower arm on my car has been cut in exactly the same place - certainly the idea/arrangement is very similar.
(d) I can take measurements if you need.
(e) The modification was done a number of years ago, and the car has done many thousands of miles since then with no apparent wear of the rose joint.
I do not know exactly which of Demon Tweeks rose joints was used but I recall it has a "teflon liner".
I suggest you go for a rose joint from their "heaviest" range in a size to suit the bolt to the chassis, with a teflon liner.
(f) Camber adjustment is by screwing the rose joint in/out of the threaded plate, but you have to remove the chassis bolt to turn the rose joint (in 1/2 turn increments). There is a lock nut fitted to the threaded part of the rose joint.
(g) Car will be at BBWF 2010 if anyone wants a look.
Rgds
Hamish
Have not been on the forum for a week or so.
(a) You are correct it was my car.
(b) The lower suspension arm (the Ford sheet metal fabrication) was cut at the inner end to remove the "lower bush housing" - cut off abt 3 inches or so, if I remember correctly.
A thick metal plate was then welded across the cut end, with a drilled and threaded hole to accept a rose joint (which I think came from Demon Tweeks)
The original inner bolt for the suspension was re-used, with spacers to centralise the rose joint.
I believe the arrangement is similar to SEACs.
I have some photos somewhere that I cannot find at present.
My car is currently at D&C Trim in Blackpool getting a new hood.
I will take some more photos and post them after I get the car back in about 1 weeks time.
A local TVR independent did the modification work, as the welding has to be good quality.
(c) Rev's photos show the arrangement to be similar, but I am not sure if the lower arm on my car has been cut in exactly the same place - certainly the idea/arrangement is very similar.
(d) I can take measurements if you need.
(e) The modification was done a number of years ago, and the car has done many thousands of miles since then with no apparent wear of the rose joint.
I do not know exactly which of Demon Tweeks rose joints was used but I recall it has a "teflon liner".
I suggest you go for a rose joint from their "heaviest" range in a size to suit the bolt to the chassis, with a teflon liner.
(f) Camber adjustment is by screwing the rose joint in/out of the threaded plate, but you have to remove the chassis bolt to turn the rose joint (in 1/2 turn increments). There is a lock nut fitted to the threaded part of the rose joint.
(g) Car will be at BBWF 2010 if anyone wants a look.
Rgds
Hamish
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