Plumbing Question - Towel Rail on Dom Hot Water
Discussion
ks:You CAN do this and on a gravity circuit it's not TOO bad an idea, but on a fully pumped system it means that the towel rail will go cold when the cylinder is up to temperature.
You could put it on the boiler primaries and it would be hot when heating OR hot water was called for.
The proper way to do it would be to put it on it's own zone.
You could put it on the boiler primaries and it would be hot when heating OR hot water was called for.
The proper way to do it would be to put it on it's own zone.
Ferg said:
You CAN do this and on a gravity circuit it's not TOO bad an idea, but on a fully pumped system it means that the towel rail will go cold when the cylinder is up to temperature.
You could put it on the boiler primaries and it would be hot when heating OR hot water was called for.
The proper way to do it would be to put it on it's own zone.
Ah, would it be on the same circuit as the one that connects the hot water cylinder to the boiler to heat the domestic hot water?You could put it on the boiler primaries and it would be hot when heating OR hot water was called for.
The proper way to do it would be to put it on it's own zone.
That's correct.
Assuming it's a fully pumped system you can tee the towel rail off the flow where it exits the motorised valve and the return as it exits the cylinder coil.
Bear in mind that when you use the water (run a bath or shower) the cylinder thermostat will kick in and the rail will heat, which is nice, BUT if you want it to heat the room then you may be disappointed as it will switch off when the cylinder is satisfied.
Assuming it's a fully pumped system you can tee the towel rail off the flow where it exits the motorised valve and the return as it exits the cylinder coil.
Bear in mind that when you use the water (run a bath or shower) the cylinder thermostat will kick in and the rail will heat, which is nice, BUT if you want it to heat the room then you may be disappointed as it will switch off when the cylinder is satisfied.
Ferg said:
That's correct.
Assuming it's a fully pumped system you can tee the towel rail off the flow where it exits the motorised valve and the return as it exits the cylinder coil.
Bear in mind that when you use the water (run a bath or shower) the cylinder thermostat will kick in and the rail will heat, which is nice, BUT if you want it to heat the room then you may be disappointed as it will switch off when the cylinder is satisfied.
Thanks Ferg. It's an existing "installation" that needs reworking - not a single bit of horizontal pipe thought the whole system.Assuming it's a fully pumped system you can tee the towel rail off the flow where it exits the motorised valve and the return as it exits the cylinder coil.
Bear in mind that when you use the water (run a bath or shower) the cylinder thermostat will kick in and the rail will heat, which is nice, BUT if you want it to heat the room then you may be disappointed as it will switch off when the cylinder is satisfied.
I'm at the planning stage & couldn't work out the connections details.
Smiler. said:
Ferg said:
You CAN do this and on a gravity circuit it's not TOO bad an idea, but on a fully pumped system it means that the towel rail will go cold when the cylinder is up to temperature.
You could put it on the boiler primaries and it would be hot when heating OR hot water was called for.
The proper way to do it would be to put it on it's own zone.
Ah, would it be on the same circuit as the one that connects the hot water cylinder to the boiler to heat the domestic hot water?You could put it on the boiler primaries and it would be hot when heating OR hot water was called for.
The proper way to do it would be to put it on it's own zone.
Its valves have to almost closed though, otherwise it short circuits the rads and that means that it gets little more than warm in the summer when the hot water only is on (and of course goes cold once the reheating of the hot water is done).
Ferg said:
Part 'L'of the building regulations.
Bypass must be of the differential pressure variety.
It may also fall foul of the manufacturers installation instructions which often stipulate that 10% or so of the heating load must be available via the bypass.
Thanks.Bypass must be of the differential pressure variety.
It may also fall foul of the manufacturers installation instructions which often stipulate that 10% or so of the heating load must be available via the bypass.
The boiler instructions suggest using a bathroom radiator by default, or a bypass if that's not practical. I remember being amazed that the instructions say 2 metres of tube is sufficient for the bypass.
A lot depends on the heat exchanger. Avoiding heat soak on low water content exchangers can be hard and quick heat up can cause hi-limit trip if the circuit is too small even with modulating gas-valves. Ideal's Icos is bad for it and that's a cast iron exchanger.
I'm assuming those instructions pre-date Part 'L'.
I'm assuming those instructions pre-date Part 'L'.
Had a chat with a plumber yesterday. The plan is to renew most of the system.
For the pump/valve arrangement, does this sound ok:
28mm flow from the boiler into the roof space - new pump with gate valves either side.
Then new 3-port valve.
The vent to the feeder tank will be taken from the link between the pump & the valve.
For the pump/valve arrangement, does this sound ok:
28mm flow from the boiler into the roof space - new pump with gate valves either side.
Then new 3-port valve.
The vent to the feeder tank will be taken from the link between the pump & the valve.
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