Help please speedo no go.
Discussion
Its probably the speedo sensor - if your model has the sensor on front nearside wheel assembly, if I remember correctly the build manual says the the way to check is to jack up front wheel and spin with ignition on - if no LED light flash as it rotates visible then its £70 odd quid for a new one
worth checking fuses too
worth checking fuses too
supergrass said:
Went to Bedford on Monday for a track day,snow ice and rain.
Car was in the garage untill i went to use it on Thursday.
Adrian, could you tell me were the sensor is so i could get to it if it needs to be cleaned or replaced, if you think this could be the problem.Thank you.Steve.
Inside the front o/s wheel - you'll see a black wire running into the sensor. I've also heard they put it on the n/s wheel on some M400s. Check my other thread as it isn't always the sensor.Car was in the garage untill i went to use it on Thursday.
Adrian, could you tell me were the sensor is so i could get to it if it needs to be cleaned or replaced, if you think this could be the problem.Thank you.Steve.
rort1 said:
Its probably the speedo sensor - if your model has the sensor on front nearside wheel assembly, if I remember correctly the build manual says the the way to check is to jack up front wheel and spin with ignition on - if no LED light flash as it rotates visible then its £70 odd quid for a new one
worth checking fuses too
Its not usually the sensor, it's more likely to be damage to one of the wires, especially with snow and ice about, On the later cars the sensor will be on the passenger side front hub, it is worth checking the gap between the rotor and the sensor, if this is much more than 1mm the readings will be unreliable. worth checking fuses too
Most people will buy a new sensor as the wires are very fiddly and finding the break awkward, but most likely right next to the sensor, it's not a good design and is actually for process control and not automotive applications.
With the ignition on, try sliding something metal, like the tip of a screwdriver, gently across the end of the sensor - if the sensor is getting power, you should see the light at the wire end of the sensor flash. If you get a flash, but spinning the front wheel doesn't make the sensor flash, then the sensor needs to be closer to the slotted wheel.
If the sensor doesn't flash, most likely it's a wiring problem. As Adrian said, the wires are easy to damage. If you're OK with wiring and soldering, instead of trying to track down the break in the wires, I'd just replace the sensor wiring with a piece of three conductor cable. Cut the wires a few inches from the sensor, leaving enough so you can splice in new wires, but be sure to cut the wires before the first zip-tie that holds them to the hub. At this point, I'd use some jumpers to temporarily hook up the sensor to the connector in the footwell, and check to see if the sensor works. If it doesn't work, change the sensor. If it does work, run your new piece of three conductor cable from the sensor to the footwell following the route of the original sensor wiring, and connect up both ends.
Be sure to thoroughly insulate/weatherproof the connections after soldering. I usually put a small dab of rtv on the connection and shrink down a piece of heat shrink tubing on top before the rtv sets. After the three individual connections are insulated, I use a larger piece of tubing to cover the gap between the two cable outer sheaths. If you use a bit of rtv before you shrink down the larger tubing, you can make sure no water creeps under the cable sheath.
If the sensor doesn't flash, most likely it's a wiring problem. As Adrian said, the wires are easy to damage. If you're OK with wiring and soldering, instead of trying to track down the break in the wires, I'd just replace the sensor wiring with a piece of three conductor cable. Cut the wires a few inches from the sensor, leaving enough so you can splice in new wires, but be sure to cut the wires before the first zip-tie that holds them to the hub. At this point, I'd use some jumpers to temporarily hook up the sensor to the connector in the footwell, and check to see if the sensor works. If it doesn't work, change the sensor. If it does work, run your new piece of three conductor cable from the sensor to the footwell following the route of the original sensor wiring, and connect up both ends.
Be sure to thoroughly insulate/weatherproof the connections after soldering. I usually put a small dab of rtv on the connection and shrink down a piece of heat shrink tubing on top before the rtv sets. After the three individual connections are insulated, I use a larger piece of tubing to cover the gap between the two cable outer sheaths. If you use a bit of rtv before you shrink down the larger tubing, you can make sure no water creeps under the cable sheath.
I just got one from peter smith sportscars 01283813593 £76.38 Delivered but the bag has Caerbont Automotive Inst Ltd & EMO36-2 Speed sensor on it, googled it & part of smiths based in wales http://caigauge.com/
Tel 01639 732200 if you save any money send me half
Tel 01639 732200 if you save any money send me half
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