Discussion
Has anyone got any tips for replacing the engine mounts on a S2?
I've undone the nuts, which scarily were only finger tight!
I can jack up the engine but it doesn't seem to go high enough to get the old ones out.
Can I twist the engine a bit? What should I look out for?
Front suspension is off so access is (relatively) good
When I do get to put the new ones on how high do I set the engine? There is some room on the bracket to allow for different heights.
Cheers
Tim
I've undone the nuts, which scarily were only finger tight!
I can jack up the engine but it doesn't seem to go high enough to get the old ones out.
Can I twist the engine a bit? What should I look out for?
Front suspension is off so access is (relatively) good
When I do get to put the new ones on how high do I set the engine? There is some room on the bracket to allow for different heights.
Cheers
Tim
Hi Tim
I think you could probably take a few mm off the ends of the mount studding which will help with clearance - as it is these that foul but need to locate in the chassis/engine brackets so every little helps - that will also lessen the spanner-work as I know you said you were sticking with nyloc nuts for the mounts - whereas I used ordinary full nuts with lockwashers which enable me to spin the nuts on finger tight to start with. I had to do much spanner changing to tighten these but I know you got some ratchet spanners off Santa
I also had to lever the engine about a bit to get the clearance. Best done one side at a time as lifting the engine enough to put both mounts in place with the same lift would be difficult - make sure you dont foul the dissy on the bulkhead when doing your levering - I have some decent bars and could supply labour some time next weekend if you get stuck. and careful with that newly painted chassis when using levers
I also found that cursing loudly and frequently seemed to help somehow
K
I think you could probably take a few mm off the ends of the mount studding which will help with clearance - as it is these that foul but need to locate in the chassis/engine brackets so every little helps - that will also lessen the spanner-work as I know you said you were sticking with nyloc nuts for the mounts - whereas I used ordinary full nuts with lockwashers which enable me to spin the nuts on finger tight to start with. I had to do much spanner changing to tighten these but I know you got some ratchet spanners off Santa
I also had to lever the engine about a bit to get the clearance. Best done one side at a time as lifting the engine enough to put both mounts in place with the same lift would be difficult - make sure you dont foul the dissy on the bulkhead when doing your levering - I have some decent bars and could supply labour some time next weekend if you get stuck. and careful with that newly painted chassis when using levers
I also found that cursing loudly and frequently seemed to help somehow
K
Sorted!!!!!
Thanks for your help folks.
I lifted engine as far as I dared then put a couple more turns on the jack. Before this I had removed the dissy cap and (more importantly) the connection to the module on the dissy's offside ~ this hits the bulkhead when lifting. The gearbox mount was also undone ~ I'm not sure if that helped but I was replacing that too.
Nearside is easiest as the engine can rock over a fair way. I trimmed the stud by about 5mm and it slid in easy(ish).
Offside was a XXXX. Used all my swear words, a few of Kev's and some I'd never heard before. Had a cup of tea and thought, why not remove the bracket? Then I realised this was what Ken had suggested before. ( Sorry Ken will listen more carefully next time)In fact I'm convinced that this is the only way of doing it as you can't rock the engine over enough as the manifold hits the nearside footwell.
So,both mounts are now in place. Although not bolted down yet.
Questions: Do I let the engine rest on the mounts and then tighten nuts or do I lift it a little and tighten ( to raise engine).
Should I use nylocs/ lockwashers or just normal nuts and washers?
It's great to be putting things back on!
Cheers
Tim
Thanks for your help folks.
I lifted engine as far as I dared then put a couple more turns on the jack. Before this I had removed the dissy cap and (more importantly) the connection to the module on the dissy's offside ~ this hits the bulkhead when lifting. The gearbox mount was also undone ~ I'm not sure if that helped but I was replacing that too.
Nearside is easiest as the engine can rock over a fair way. I trimmed the stud by about 5mm and it slid in easy(ish).
Offside was a XXXX. Used all my swear words, a few of Kev's and some I'd never heard before. Had a cup of tea and thought, why not remove the bracket? Then I realised this was what Ken had suggested before. ( Sorry Ken will listen more carefully next time)In fact I'm convinced that this is the only way of doing it as you can't rock the engine over enough as the manifold hits the nearside footwell.
So,both mounts are now in place. Although not bolted down yet.
Questions: Do I let the engine rest on the mounts and then tighten nuts or do I lift it a little and tighten ( to raise engine).
Should I use nylocs/ lockwashers or just normal nuts and washers?
It's great to be putting things back on!
Cheers
Tim
Ha! glad you got sorted Tim - I was going to give you a ring/visit on saturday but wasnt even well enough to work on my own car 
feels like I lost a whole weekend work...
I let my engine rest on the mounts before I tightened the nuts. I used ordinary full nuts with spring washers so that I could spin them on finger tight before having to use the multiple spanner routine to tighten them up, Nyloc nuts would take more spannering.
sounds like you are making great progress anyway...
K
feels like I lost a whole weekend work...I let my engine rest on the mounts before I tightened the nuts. I used ordinary full nuts with spring washers so that I could spin them on finger tight before having to use the multiple spanner routine to tighten them up, Nyloc nuts would take more spannering.
sounds like you are making great progress anyway...
K
Elfit said:
Questions: Do I let the engine rest on the mounts and then tighten nuts or do I lift it a little and tighten ( to raise engine).
Should I use nylocs/ lockwashers or just normal nuts and washers?
I let engine just rest on the mounts before tightening, if you want it any higher I think you need to use shims. You could use the end plates of the old mounts to make shims but its a lot of messing about.Should I use nylocs/ lockwashers or just normal nuts and washers?
You might regret using nylocs if you ever have to take them off again, better to use plain nuts and spring washers there imho.
K
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