Custom-sized door
Discussion
Chaps,
We've got a small downstairs loo which is under the stairs. The current door to the loo is made of some pretty thin wood and is very flimsy in addition to being only 20mm thick, so I wanted to replace it with a 35mm door to provide a bit more seclusion.
The problem is, it's a weird size..1825mm high by 615mm wide. Most of the doors I've seen for sale are at least 1981mm high and I didn't want to have to start sawing unless I absolutely must.
Any ideas? Is there some normal way to get a custom-sized door made up?
We've got a small downstairs loo which is under the stairs. The current door to the loo is made of some pretty thin wood and is very flimsy in addition to being only 20mm thick, so I wanted to replace it with a 35mm door to provide a bit more seclusion.
The problem is, it's a weird size..1825mm high by 615mm wide. Most of the doors I've seen for sale are at least 1981mm high and I didn't want to have to start sawing unless I absolutely must.
Any ideas? Is there some normal way to get a custom-sized door made up?
Interesting question. Most interior doors have an internal cardboard structure with wood edges, which to certain extent you can plane down. The narrowest is 27", after which you end up looking at louvre doors in B&Q etc. Not ideal for a loo!
If you are happy with a flat front, buy a cheap internal door and start sawing... reposition the side timbers into the gap. But as you're increasing the thickness, you'll need to reposition the door frame battens as well.
I'm trying to figure out how best to make a door for an understairs cupboard, but that has a 45 degree angle on one corner... for a panelled look that won't warp, I'm stuck!
If you are happy with a flat front, buy a cheap internal door and start sawing... reposition the side timbers into the gap. But as you're increasing the thickness, you'll need to reposition the door frame battens as well.
I'm trying to figure out how best to make a door for an understairs cupboard, but that has a 45 degree angle on one corner... for a panelled look that won't warp, I'm stuck!
You'll pay a small fortune for a bespoke door, but most joinery shops should be able to knock one up for you.
As mentioned, get a door blank with a solid core (you'll never be able to put a hollow / carboard core door back together), something like an FD60 fire door. Cut it down on two sides, carefully remove the edgings and re-fix them to the core. Tricky to do neatly.
Simpo, could you use applied mouldings on top of a solid core door?
As mentioned, get a door blank with a solid core (you'll never be able to put a hollow / carboard core door back together), something like an FD60 fire door. Cut it down on two sides, carefully remove the edgings and re-fix them to the core. Tricky to do neatly.
Simpo, could you use applied mouldings on top of a solid core door?
GuinnessMK said:
Simpo, could you use applied mouldings on top of a solid core door?
I did think of that, but I think 'stick-on' mouldings look a bit naff, and they wouldn't match the (fake) panelled effect of the other doors. I just don't have the gear or space to make a real panelled door. I could use a plain door as a substrate, but it would need to be thinner that a standard door, about 27mm. so that when I batten it out in Georgian style it comes to 35mm.
Simpo Two said:
They don't do doors 24" wide - do they? I thought they were 27" and 30".
Yep, 18", 21", 24", 27", 30", 33"http://www.magnettrade.co.uk/trade/joinery/subsubc...
2" off the top, 4" off the bottom, take out the strips of timber and re-fit with grip fill, bit of a sand and jobs a good un.
Edited by B17NNS on Monday 1st March 22:58
B17NNS said:
Simpo Two said:
They don't do doors 24" wide - do they? I thought they were 27" and 30".
Yep, 18", 21", 24", 27", 30", 33"http://www.magnettrade.co.uk/trade/joinery/subsubc...
2" off the top, 4" off the bottom, take out the strips of timber and re-fit with grip fill, bit of a sand and jobs a good un.
Edited by B17NNS on Monday 1st March 22:58
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