What bicycle?

[Huntsman]

In an effort to shed a few pounds of lard and get my cholesterol down into single figures I've been doing a train/cycle to work.

Its a mile up to the local station from home, if I get off at Cosham its about 5 miles to work and I dont have to change train.

The ride is entirely tarmac pavement, cycle path and road, a bit rough and gravelish here and there but mostly tarmac. When the weather is good I have the option to get off the train early and take a longer ride home, its a nice route but some of it is muddy track.

Currenty I ride a Schwinn mountain bike, no suspension, I have got a smooth road tyre on the back with 80psi in it, its rolling resistance is okish, but the gearing is far too low, I'm pedalling like a tt.

I dont really want some nose down/arse up super racer, I dont need 27 gears, I dont need suspension, I dont need carbon fibre.

Trains are only once an hour so a puncture means a right pain in the 'arris, hence high puncture resistance is bonus.

There is a ride to work scheme on, it cost me about half the retail price.

What bike should I get?

Part of me fancies an older bike, like a Colnago or something swanky like that.

[P-Jay]

Hybrids are pretty good these day, I see a lot of people riding litting folding ones too that are way better than they used to be. They all seem to have the right gearing for tarmac.

You could of course fit a moosive front ring to your current bike if you like.

[raf_gti]

Huntsman said:

Currenty I ride a Schwinn mountain bike, no suspension, I have got a smooth road tyre on the back with 80psi in it, its rolling resistance is okish, but the gearing is far too low, I'm pedalling like a tt.

Really?

Even in the highest gear?

I'd suggest looking at the Planet X website, they do a lovely flat handlebar version of their 'Uncle-something-or-other' bike, this would give you higher gearing without the arse up riding position.

Decent prices as well for what would be a commuting bike.

ETA linky http://www.planet-x-warehouse.co.uk/acatalog/Flat_...

Edited by raf_gti on Thursday 4th March 12:47

[pdV6]

raf_gti said:

Huntsman said:

the gearing is far too low, I'm pedalling like a tt.

Really?

Even in the highest gear?

Seconded. With a 44t ring, I'm only spinning out badly on one particularly steep downhill road.

Unless you have good secure bike storage at work, I'd stick with a knackered old MTB and adjust as necessary (another slick for the front, bigger chainring if necessary etc)

[pdV6]

Huntsman said:

I dont really want some nose down/arse up super racer, I dont need 27 gears, I dont need suspension, I dont need carbon fibre.

Same sort of parameters I used when building my current commuter hack bike:

• Cheap (free!) aluminium MTB frame
• Single 44t ring up front, mounted in the middle ring position to give reasonable chainline in all gears
• 9sp cassette
• Rigid forks
• Fat, slick tyres

[Huntsman]

raf_gti said:

Really?

Even in the highest gear?

Yes, its a relatively flat route, one hill which I can take in my 19th gear and one bridge I do in the same.

Never shift off the big front cog and never lower than 5th on the back cog.

Bike storage at work is very safe, we have to badge swipe in and out so a more valuable bike would be safe.

Part of me thinks a smooth front tyre and a bigger front cog woudl be enough, buy the ride to work scheme is about 50% off.

[Huntsman]

pdV6 said:

• Single 44t ring up front

I dont know what size my front cog is, I'll have a count, I guess a slightly bigger one would help.

[anonymous-user]

flat bar commuter makes sense with a pair of conti gatorskin tyres to prevent punctures. have a look at the giant rapid range. i think they look the part and are well specced for the money.

http://www.tredz.co.uk/productlist.aspx?searchstri...

also rather than consider changing the front ring, change the casette. you will find it far easier on the road rather than a mtb casette. the difference is something like 22-11 from 32-15.

[pdV6]

pablo said:

also rather than consider changing the front ring, change the casette. you will find it far easier on the road rather than a mtb casette. the difference is something like 22-11 from 32-15.

Most MTB Cassettes will have an 11t smallest cog anyway, so changing to a road one will only give you finer ratio increments rather than a faster top speed.

Unless you've actually hit upon the root cause of the OP's problem; namely a weird set of ratios on the cassette.