Where should my biting point be? (help)
Where should my biting point be? (help)
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shoggyraminator

Original Poster:

255 posts

206 months

Sunday 7th March 2010
quotequote all
Maybe I'm just imagining things and being paranoid here, but.... Well long story short. Bought car 5 months ago, new clutch & slave cylinder fitted a few hundred miles before. Drove home (300 miles). Car sat in garage till now. Ok, so now I have the time to start some work on it and the first job was to bleed the brakes and clutch.

Now to my problem. The clutch bled fine and all looked good till I got in the car to move it back before going on the ramps. I have to put my foot right on the floor to get into gear easily and the clutch just starts to bite shortly after lifting your foot off the floor (Feels very low). Then there is some travel before the clutch is fully engaged. The motion feels smooth and quite light, but I can't for the life of me remember how it felt last time I drove it 5 months ago!

Has it always been like this, has something happened when I bled it or is this normal, which is what I really want to hear.......but I guess not?
rolleyes

Extra 300 Driver

5,282 posts

276 months

Sunday 7th March 2010
quotequote all
Have you checked the input rod on the master cylinder? This will adjust the bite point up and down, but I was always careful not to have to too high, as depressing the clutch all the way would put stress on the fingers.

This may not be correct but I didnt have finger failure in 40,000mls whilse others seemed to be falling all around me!

shoggyraminator

Original Poster:

255 posts

206 months

Sunday 7th March 2010
quotequote all
Cheers for the reply. I'll take a look at this today, but there does appear to be plenty of travel on the pedal as it stands. Just heading into the garage to fit my decats (important stuff first) wink then I'll look at the pedal adjuster.

gruffalo

8,152 posts

256 months

Sunday 7th March 2010
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Yep, mine is near the bottom as well and has been for as long as I have had her, nothing wrong with that just so long as it does disengage completely.

Steve_T

6,356 posts

302 months

Sunday 7th March 2010
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If you're feeling paranoid, you can always bleed the clutch again. If you don't get any air out, job's a good un.

shoggyraminator

Original Poster:

255 posts

206 months

Sunday 7th March 2010
quotequote all
OK, took a look at the pedal adjuster and as you can see from the photo it only adjust the pedal position and not how far the piston rod moves down the master cylinder. When you push the pedal the end of the rod moves right up to the black rubber boot before it comes to a hard stop IE not fouling on the carpet etc, so it is going all the way.

There is a small nut at the end of the rod but it looks like the fitting nut and not an adjuster, but as I say the pedal travel comes to a hard stop.

Can some one else confirm the start of their biting point is very low down as I've read some threads about different sized slave cylinders causing issues and I would just like to think this is not the case.

Cheers.

Redmist336

255 posts

220 months

Sunday 7th March 2010
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I haven't reviewed the slave myself, however I understand there to be multiple lenghts. I suspect someones replaced yours with an incorrct length.

shoggyraminator

Original Poster:

255 posts

206 months

Sunday 7th March 2010
quotequote all
Redmist336 said:
I haven't reviewed the slave myself, however I understand there to be multiple lenghts. I suspect someones replaced yours with an incorrct length.
The thing is, when you push down on the pedal is eventually comes to a dead end which indicates it has reached the end of it's travel within the master cylinder as at this point there is still some shaft showing just before the rubber boot?