Ford Ka - what should I look for?
Discussion
Check for rust on the chassis and around the fuel filler and try and stretch to a Duratec engined car as they are much smoother. The Duratec cars have a little more power and were introduced in 2003 your budget should get you an 04/05 car, not a huge amount to go wrong with the KA but 100's of them around so if it looks or sounds dodgy then walk away.
I own a Ka so I know lots about them. Please, check for rust everywhere.
Bad areas for rust:
Sills - common for bad rust after 3/4 years IF not cleaned regularly.
Petrol filler cap
Bottom of A and B pillars
Suspension arms, trailing arms
On much older ones, check for rust in these areas:
Where the rear wing panels meet the bumpers at the corner, seen lots with bubbling paint in this area
Floor pans
Boot floor
Engine bay, check along the welds either side - check strut tower tops for corrosion.
Check for corroded alternator cable.
Duratec is the one to go for - Kas with a 52 registration onwards have the Duratec engine - you can also tell its a Duratec because the spark plugs are at the back, whereas on the Endura-E they are at the front.
Check its idling OK and not hesitating - can be a result of a dirty clogged up Idle Control Valve AND/OR Throttle Body! or if not those, it needs a new oxygen/lambda sensor.
The bushes on these cars only last 30,000 miles - they are so bad that they are basically service items and should be replaced as regular as possible. The bushes are cheap but getting them fitted isn't so cheap.
Watch out for ones that have had the steering rack replaced, might have been replaced with a cheap non-Ford part, or a reconditioned one, likely to go again 1-2 years after replacement.
Its essential to get one which has been religiously serviced and maintained - despite popular belief these cars are quite high maintenance really.
As a last tip, go for one with colour coded bumpers, much better looking.
If you want to know anything specific just ask.
Bad areas for rust:
Sills - common for bad rust after 3/4 years IF not cleaned regularly.
Petrol filler cap
Bottom of A and B pillars
Suspension arms, trailing arms
On much older ones, check for rust in these areas:
Where the rear wing panels meet the bumpers at the corner, seen lots with bubbling paint in this area
Floor pans
Boot floor
Engine bay, check along the welds either side - check strut tower tops for corrosion.
Check for corroded alternator cable.
Duratec is the one to go for - Kas with a 52 registration onwards have the Duratec engine - you can also tell its a Duratec because the spark plugs are at the back, whereas on the Endura-E they are at the front.
Check its idling OK and not hesitating - can be a result of a dirty clogged up Idle Control Valve AND/OR Throttle Body! or if not those, it needs a new oxygen/lambda sensor.
The bushes on these cars only last 30,000 miles - they are so bad that they are basically service items and should be replaced as regular as possible. The bushes are cheap but getting them fitted isn't so cheap.
Watch out for ones that have had the steering rack replaced, might have been replaced with a cheap non-Ford part, or a reconditioned one, likely to go again 1-2 years after replacement.
Its essential to get one which has been religiously serviced and maintained - despite popular belief these cars are quite high maintenance really.
As a last tip, go for one with colour coded bumpers, much better looking.
If you want to know anything specific just ask.
Oh and if you find an older one with a rust free petrol cap area - be cautious. It might have been sanded down, primed and painted over. In this case, it will rust again in 6-12 months usually. The only cure for rust is to cut out the bad metal and weld in new metal. In the case of the petrol cap area, the proper repair is an entire new panel welded in, costs in the region of 300-400 for this I believe.
3sixty said:
Thanks for replies - budget is around £1.5k, not sure if this will stretch to the newer models with the Duratec. Can only really find some higher mileage Ka2 at the moment.
I was also looking for a KA and no 1.5k will unfortunately not stretch to a Duratec engined car unless you find one with really high miles.The Duratec motor is much nicer though.Try to get the collection or Luxury model which have the best spec and colour matched bumpers.Alternatively look at a 1.25 Fiesta but insurance group will be higher.Edited by macp on Wednesday 10th March 12:08
front arms wear quickly
try and get a 2002 or newer with Duratec engine
I had one with the EnduraE motor...mine needed a new engine within the first couple of weeks of ownership, then two further heads all within a year.
as soon as the warranty expired I got rid of it
try and get a 2002 or newer with Duratec engine
I had one with the EnduraE motor...mine needed a new engine within the first couple of weeks of ownership, then two further heads all within a year.
as soon as the warranty expired I got rid of it
Edited by y2blade on Wednesday 10th March 10:07
Ka2 and Ka3 models have trouble with the electrics and various other issues which were later fixed on subsequent models.
As for the Endura-E engine, if the spark plugs haven't been taken out for a while, they will be corroded/seized into the head and it can take 1-2 hours to get them out. If a garage tries to get them out without spending time to do it right, you'll need a new head which is the last thing you want.
The tappets need regular adjustment, otherwise it will sound terrible.
Again same thing applies as with the Duratec, if its running a bit weird, suspect Idle Control Valve or oxygen/lambda sensor.
Collection and Luxury are the models to go for.
Its so very important to be careful what you get when it comes to an older Ka. Most are very tired/past it at 7-10 years old and you'd be better off looking at Toyota Yaris or VW Polos in the same price range.
As for the Endura-E engine, if the spark plugs haven't been taken out for a while, they will be corroded/seized into the head and it can take 1-2 hours to get them out. If a garage tries to get them out without spending time to do it right, you'll need a new head which is the last thing you want.
The tappets need regular adjustment, otherwise it will sound terrible.
Again same thing applies as with the Duratec, if its running a bit weird, suspect Idle Control Valve or oxygen/lambda sensor.
Collection and Luxury are the models to go for.
Its so very important to be careful what you get when it comes to an older Ka. Most are very tired/past it at 7-10 years old and you'd be better off looking at Toyota Yaris or VW Polos in the same price range.
Thanks for the suggestions again guys - starting to steer away from a Ka after reading about the problems, which are only ever going to me more likely at my price range.
I've shown the OH the other contenders, she likes the Yaris but everything else (Micra, Polo etc.) got the look of disapproval....
I've shown the OH the other contenders, she likes the Yaris but everything else (Micra, Polo etc.) got the look of disapproval....
3sixty said:
Thanks for the suggestions again guys - starting to steer away from a Ka after reading about the problems, which are only ever going to me more likely at my price range.
I've shown the OH the other contenders, she likes the Yaris but everything else (Micra, Polo etc.) got the look of disapproval....
Ahh yes the face of doom I've shown the OH the other contenders, she likes the Yaris but everything else (Micra, Polo etc.) got the look of disapproval....
The Yaris & the Micra are pretty bombproof as most here will agree with although the Pug 106 also has a good following here too.
Apologies for the re-topping of this post, but thought it was better to 'continue the story' rather than add another post.
We got a Ford Ka Collection yesterday, very nice car. Clean inside and out, with most of the problem areas above fixed such as the petrol filler cap and got a wallet full of service history and receipts.
A few quick questions:
The heater setting only seems to work on setting 3? May just be very weak on 1 and 2... but I can't seem to fill any air being blown in. Any ideas what this might be?
Can anyone tell me which versions, if any, had cambelt? I've been given conflicting advice by a lot of people, some saying its on chains others say its on belt.
Slightly cosmetic thing, the Ford badge on the grill and boot seem slightly faded and was looking to get a replacement off ebay or similar. Being at work (and lazy to measure it when I get back), does anyone have the dimensions? There seems to be a million and one sizes on ebay and all claiming to be the right size for a Ford Ka.
We got a Ford Ka Collection yesterday, very nice car. Clean inside and out, with most of the problem areas above fixed such as the petrol filler cap and got a wallet full of service history and receipts.
A few quick questions:
The heater setting only seems to work on setting 3? May just be very weak on 1 and 2... but I can't seem to fill any air being blown in. Any ideas what this might be?
Can anyone tell me which versions, if any, had cambelt? I've been given conflicting advice by a lot of people, some saying its on chains others say its on belt.
Slightly cosmetic thing, the Ford badge on the grill and boot seem slightly faded and was looking to get a replacement off ebay or similar. Being at work (and lazy to measure it when I get back), does anyone have the dimensions? There seems to be a million and one sizes on ebay and all claiming to be the right size for a Ford Ka.
Heater control valve. VERY common fault on Kas and Fiestas. Phone your local Ford dealer for a price, while you are there, ask them for a badge, they don't cost an awful lot. The spares dept should also be able to look up your registration on the Ford computer and tell you whether it is belt or chain.
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