Next niggle to sort - scrubbers !
Discussion
Having sorted my over-fueling problem, I'm onto the next niggle .. front wheels scrubbing the inside front wheel arch ->
I'm going to replace the tie-rod 'donut' bushes (which are shot) and the drop links (which look okay) with some nice shiney SH ones, but I'm not sure they are the (only) culprits.
The tyres don't scrub when stationary when turning the steering from lock-lock, but there is almost no clearance. Worse is the off-side, but both are scrubbing.
Tyres are 225/50/ZR15.
What other components should I be checking
?
TIA
I'm going to replace the tie-rod 'donut' bushes (which are shot) and the drop links (which look okay) with some nice shiney SH ones, but I'm not sure they are the (only) culprits.
The tyres don't scrub when stationary when turning the steering from lock-lock, but there is almost no clearance. Worse is the off-side, but both are scrubbing.
Tyres are 225/50/ZR15.
What other components should I be checking
?TIA
The tie rod ones are the problem - under braking both wheels will be pushed back as the car will be trying to go forward still. Initially try doing up the nuts at the front to clamp them and see if it still rubs (put some chalk on or summat). I'm sure that will prove the point one way or the other.
adam quantrill said:
The tie rod ones are the problem - under braking both wheels will be pushed back as the car will be trying to go forward still. Initially try doing up the nuts at the front to clamp them and see if it still rubs (put some chalk on or summat). I'm sure that will prove the point one way or the other.
Does that pic not show the corner of the front spoiler, ie the front of the wheelarch....? Wedg1e said:
adam quantrill said:
The tie rod ones are the problem - under braking both wheels will be pushed back as the car will be trying to go forward still. Initially try doing up the nuts at the front to clamp them and see if it still rubs (put some chalk on or summat). I'm sure that will prove the point one way or the other.
Does that pic not show the corner of the front spoiler, ie the front of the wheelarch....? Thansk for the ideas so far ... plently to be getting on with.
It is indeed the 'front' of the front wheel arch. The picture shows the front off-side tyre, with the front of the car to the right.
I've now noticed it catching whilst doing a three point turn, so it's not really braking related. It seems to be the just the outside edge of the tyre.
The tie-rod donut bushes are really bad (crumbling, like sponge cake), so I'll change them asap and see if that helps.
What should the ride height be with standard springs/shocks? Two fingers above the wheel ?
It is indeed the 'front' of the front wheel arch. The picture shows the front off-side tyre, with the front of the car to the right.
I've now noticed it catching whilst doing a three point turn, so it's not really braking related. It seems to be the just the outside edge of the tyre.
The tie-rod donut bushes are really bad (crumbling, like sponge cake), so I'll change them asap and see if that helps.
What should the ride height be with standard springs/shocks? Two fingers above the wheel ?
If you get someone to sit in the car with their foot hard on the brake, then get them to turn the steering you may see what is happening.
(When the steering is turned without the wheel locked by the brake the road wheel will turn a little and you not see any load applied to the caster.)
Edit to add the diag below.
This is for a USA 280 so I'm not sure how much help it is. The height D is with 14" wheels, the wheelbase B mat be useful if you resort to 4 wheel alignment. At least you have an A frame rear which gives you a decent starting point. We have the supermaket trolley type rear susp.(Trailing arm)
(When the steering is turned without the wheel locked by the brake the road wheel will turn a little and you not see any load applied to the caster.)
Edit to add the diag below.
This is for a USA 280 so I'm not sure how much help it is. The height D is with 14" wheels, the wheelbase B mat be useful if you resort to 4 wheel alignment. At least you have an A frame rear which gives you a decent starting point. We have the supermaket trolley type rear susp.(Trailing arm)
Edited by jeff m on Saturday 13th March 05:18
Hmmmm .... I've replaced the tie rod 'donut' bushes and new SH drop-links, using the original position of the tie-rods. Car drives okay and the steering is definitely more 'planted' than before. However, the front wheels are STILL scrubbing on the front wheel arches when close to full lock. Tried to take some more photos below ... the minimum gap is just 2-3 mm.
Puzzled again as to what can be wrong ?
Backlit ...
Puzzled again as to what can be wrong ?
Backlit ...
Maybe nothing. Modern tyres are more square-shouldered than they were 20 years ago when the car was designed.
When I used to buy Yokohama AVS's back in the '90's they usually did the same thing when they were new - it took a few thousand miles to rub bits off both the tyres and the arches!
On my 400SX the fronts have worn grooves in the inner arches on full lock - now the grooves are there it seems OK, they aren't getting any bigger. I'm not worried as when on full lock you are usually only doing 10mph or so.
When I used to buy Yokohama AVS's back in the '90's they usually did the same thing when they were new - it took a few thousand miles to rub bits off both the tyres and the arches!
On my 400SX the fronts have worn grooves in the inner arches on full lock - now the grooves are there it seems OK, they aren't getting any bigger. I'm not worried as when on full lock you are usually only doing 10mph or so.
Just a thought.......not that I really know.....as you have checked bushes etc could the packing rubbers where the body bolts to the chassis be perished and hence dropping the body lower. 
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