fitting a new hood
Discussion
The rear section of the hood has been changed.
As you can see, the new one doesn't fit well.
There is a problem in the curved part of the hood and the rear window has ripples. The material is not glued.
Do you know what is wrong ?
My trimmer used a genuine TVR material for Griffith (at least to my knowledge).
Thank you for your kind advice.

As you can see, the new one doesn't fit well.
There is a problem in the curved part of the hood and the rear window has ripples. The material is not glued.
Do you know what is wrong ?
My trimmer used a genuine TVR material for Griffith (at least to my knowledge).
Thank you for your kind advice.
Edited by MyGriffith on Thursday 25th March 23:12
I recon the pictures are not of the best quality to be able to judge.
In the first one, we see some wrinkles in the curved parts of the rear window and also in the side fabrics. I presume it is not the biggest problem.
In the second one, the central part of the hood fabrics on the roof bar "undulates" when the struts are half popped. Is it normal ? Don't you think the material should be glued to the hood ?
The trimmer succeeds to solve this undulation problem when the struts are complete folded but he explained that the velcro strips attaching the hood to the body on the side have to be manually released first. For me, it is completely new and not user friendly.
Is it the standard way of doing or not because this solution seems easier for my trimmer but not for the user ?
Many thanks.
In the first one, we see some wrinkles in the curved parts of the rear window and also in the side fabrics. I presume it is not the biggest problem.
In the second one, the central part of the hood fabrics on the roof bar "undulates" when the struts are half popped. Is it normal ? Don't you think the material should be glued to the hood ?
The trimmer succeeds to solve this undulation problem when the struts are complete folded but he explained that the velcro strips attaching the hood to the body on the side have to be manually released first. For me, it is completely new and not user friendly.
Is it the standard way of doing or not because this solution seems easier for my trimmer but not for the user ?
Many thanks.
It is a genuine TVR rear section purchased some years ago which replaces the previous one - not genuine - coming from Bas International
Is it true the velcro strips attaching the hood to the body have to be manually detached/ released first prior to fully open the rear section of the hood (so put it at the same level as the body) ? Is it the standard way of doing ?
Thanks.
Is it true the velcro strips attaching the hood to the body have to be manually detached/ released first prior to fully open the rear section of the hood (so put it at the same level as the body) ? Is it the standard way of doing ?
Thanks.
Edited by MyGriffith on Thursday 25th March 22:11
MyGriffith said:
...
Is it true the velcro strips attaching the hood to the body have to be manually detached/ released first prior to fully open the rear section of the hood (so put it at the same level as the body) ? Is it the standard way of doing ?...
That's the way I was told and it works nicely. There's velcro on both the outside and the inside and both bits should be undone before the roof is folded.Is it true the velcro strips attaching the hood to the body have to be manually detached/ released first prior to fully open the rear section of the hood (so put it at the same level as the body) ? Is it the standard way of doing ?...
When you put it back up, you do the velcro up afterwards - this might stop the wrinkles on the side if the velcro's pulled tight?
Release the rear stays and (partly) collapse the rear header. Remove and stow roof sections.
Quoting from the Griffith car handbook: "Finally after releasing the velcro fastening at the base of the the rear header, lower into the fully collapsed position".
And when refitting the hood, "The weather seals at the base of the rear header should be placed overlapping the door frame. To gain maxumum protection against the elements, smooth the roof material downwards at the base of the rear header onto the velcro strip, where the material meets the body."
HTH
Quoting from the Griffith car handbook: "Finally after releasing the velcro fastening at the base of the the rear header, lower into the fully collapsed position".
And when refitting the hood, "The weather seals at the base of the rear header should be placed overlapping the door frame. To gain maxumum protection against the elements, smooth the roof material downwards at the base of the rear header onto the velcro strip, where the material meets the body."
HTH
Thanks a lot for your help.
So the only remaining question is : is it usual to have such wrinkles/ripples in the central part of the hood material when the hood is not in a fully collapsed position?
See picture.
It looks like the hood material shoud be glued, more tightened and/or pulled up ?

So the only remaining question is : is it usual to have such wrinkles/ripples in the central part of the hood material when the hood is not in a fully collapsed position?
See picture.
It looks like the hood material shoud be glued, more tightened and/or pulled up ?
Edited by MyGriffith on Monday 15th March 16:24
daveb500 said:
Just make sure you get a straight fold along the plastic (a few karati chops normally does the trick). When the weather is a bit warmer, it will fold a lot easier. But the actual roof looks fine.
The problem is not the plastic rear screen but the hood fabrics. Do you think it would be useful to pull up - stretch up it a bit or glue it to avoid these ripples?Edited by MyGriffith on Wednesday 17th March 22:54
MyGriffith said:
daveb500 said:
Just make sure you get a straight fold along the plastic (a few karati chops normally does the trick). When the weather is a bit warmer, it will fold a lot easier. But the actual roof looks fine.
The problem is not the plstic rear screen but the hood fabrics. Do you think it is not necessary to pull up - stectch up it a bit or glue it t avoid these riples?MyGriffith said:
Thanks a lot for your help.
So the only remaining question is : is it usual to have such wrinkles/ripples in the central part of the hood material when the hood is not in a fully collapsed position?
See picture.
It looks like the hood material shoud be glued, more tightened and/or pulled up ?

In answer to your question, no, that is not usual and, yes, the upper section of the hood material should have been glued to the header.So the only remaining question is : is it usual to have such wrinkles/ripples in the central part of the hood material when the hood is not in a fully collapsed position?
See picture.
It looks like the hood material shoud be glued, more tightened and/or pulled up ?
Edited by MyGriffith on Monday 15th March 16:24
To effect a repair to this means lifting the whole hood from the back hoop (by unbolting that hoop), peeling back the header cover and re-spraying both surfaces with an instant contact adherent spray such as 3M Scotch-Weld which I've used with good results.
Thank you. I also have the impression the upper section of the hood material should have been - not only glued - but also stretched to the up? Am I right ?
Hereafter view from inside with rear screen, black inner side of hood material and leather. Do we need to stretch up the hood material ?

Hereafter view from inside with rear screen, black inner side of hood material and leather. Do we need to stretch up the hood material ?
Edited by MyGriffith on Thursday 25th March 22:18
MyGriffith said:
Thank you. I also have the impression the upper section of the hood material should have been - not only glued - but also stretched to the up? Am I right ?
Not necessarily as the proportion of material showing below the header (leather) appears to be about right. Having thought about this more, I wouldn't be overly concerned about the hood material being a bit loose on the header when you have collapsed the window and, from your first pic, the mohair seems to be perfectly ok when the roof is in place- and that's the important thing.
Also, it's normal to have a slight 'wave' in the clear plastic at each end due to the shape it has to traverse and yours doesn't look to bad. For example, here's a pic of a badly fitted one:
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