Trigger Wheel V8 wedget
Trigger Wheel V8 wedget
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Discussion

B@man

Original Poster:

1,486 posts

234 months

Saturday 13th March 2010
quotequote all
Help !

I've taken the front pulley off my 400 today to fit the trigger wheel I got front trigger-wheels.com, however due to the PAS bracket bolts there is insufficient clearance behind the crank pulley to fit the wheel. If I split the puller and fit the TW between the balancer and the water / pump alternator belt pulley I will then need to space the water pump and alternator forward by 5mm.

The other option was to machine the rear part of the pulley off but I noticed that the rear flange of the pulley has a balance weight (ok a bit of threaded rod squished into the outside of the flange) further reading on PH suggests that the RV8 crank is externally balance using this lump of studding, I which case removing it would be bad news for the crank.


For info it's a pre-serp 400 chimp motor rather than the original 400 unit (slipped liner) Anyone know if this hunk of stud is really needed to stop the bottom end lunching itself ??


Barkychoc

7,848 posts

234 months

Saturday 13th March 2010
quotequote all
Left field option - change the power steering pump for a Citroen Saxo electric one. I'm just doing this on my V8S as the exhaust sits where the pump is on yours so a mechanical pump is pretty much out of the question. (I'm converting to Power steering)

B@man

Original Poster:

1,486 posts

234 months

Saturday 13th March 2010
quotequote all
Problem is the balance weights are attached to the PAS pump pulley And A bit more reading (v8 tuning book) indicates that the 3.9 is externally balanced by bits of threaded rod bodged onto the front pulley & "special bolts" (Unobtainium ?) used to retain the flywheel.

scratchchin

Edited by B@man on Saturday 13th March 20:54

B@man

Original Poster:

1,486 posts

234 months

Sunday 14th March 2010
quotequote all
I think I've come up with a cunning plan idea

Before machining the splash shield (and lump o studding) off the pulley I'll mark where the balance "weight" is, then I can weld the weight back on again in the same place once the pulley has been in the lathe.

Hopefully that should keep the thing roughly balanced AND make space for the trigger wheel / PAS pump bracket.

Why didn't I think of that before smash

rev-erend

21,623 posts

314 months

Sunday 14th March 2010
quotequote all
Not sure if it helps but my engine is a 4.6 cross bolted engine and this is what I did :




gsx600

2,740 posts

278 months

Sunday 14th March 2010
quotequote all
rev-erend said:
Not sure if it helps but my engine is a 4.6 cross bolted engine and this is what I did :



Yep thats what I also did on the 4.5 BV chim motor in mine

B@man

Original Poster:

1,486 posts

234 months

Monday 15th March 2010
quotequote all
Thanks Rev.

Looking that that I suspect my chim 400 motor may have the original engines SD1 pulley fitted. In which case the stupid balance weight is for the wrong engine anyway.



The skirt behind the PAS pulley will be removed today - no going back !
And the oil seal is getting replaced too eek

ed_crouch

1,169 posts

272 months

Monday 15th March 2010
quotequote all
Rev, any reason you have 2 pulleys on your crank damper? I removed the rear one and replaced it with the trigger wheel. Seems to run fine...

Should I be putting that rear pulley back on somewhere?!? I can't see what it adds apart from rotational inertia and dead weight?


rev-erend

21,623 posts

314 months

Monday 15th March 2010
quotequote all
It was all a bit complicated in there .. PAS on one side and AC on the other .. so lots of pulleys.

My new set-up should be much simpler.

Crank, water pump, alternator.

That's it..

B@man

Original Poster:

1,486 posts

234 months

Monday 15th March 2010
quotequote all
Sorted.... The pulley has now been for a spin in a nice big lathe



Just need a pair of extra spacers (& a new seal)