Higher mileage TT's/S3?
Discussion
There seems to be a number of Audi TT's for sale (225, Roadsters) which are pretty cheap for 2002-2003, but are running 100k+ miles.
I've never been afraid of "high milage" cars, but is there anything to consider when buying a 100k+ miles VAG 1.8T engined car?
Same applies for the S3... http://pistonheads.com/sales/1469451.htm
I've never been afraid of "high milage" cars, but is there anything to consider when buying a 100k+ miles VAG 1.8T engined car?
Same applies for the S3... http://pistonheads.com/sales/1469451.htm
Ifit has been looked after, they go to 150k pretty easily, even if remapped.
BUt wath out for AVS servicing at higher miles. Some cars you see at 10k miles, fsh with 4 visits to the numpty dealer. Any VAG car I get is off AVS immediately and put on 10k oil changes, oil is cheap and I'd feel far hapier wiht a 100k mile car that has been to a garage 10 times than one that has been there 4 times.
There are common issued with 18t cars, coilpacks, MAFs, sometimes DMF failures, but generally, these can strike you anytime, as can window regulators on golfs and dashpods on pre 2002 TTs. ARB bushes on S3s and TTs, rear beam bushes on 2wd glfs etc, all will be shot well before 100k.
But as an engine, the 18t is pretty excellent, not the most refined or most characterful, but strong, tuneable, with excelent reliability.
I sold a 140k mile 18T golf for very strong money a few years back, it was a really solid car, all new bits where needed, but the motor had never needed touching apart from routine servicing.
Check cambelts and tensioners and waterpumps have been replaced, lots of oil in it, and you wont be ging too far wrong IMO. Alternators and starters last about 6-8 years IME, so if they are original you amy need them replacing soon.
BUt wath out for AVS servicing at higher miles. Some cars you see at 10k miles, fsh with 4 visits to the numpty dealer. Any VAG car I get is off AVS immediately and put on 10k oil changes, oil is cheap and I'd feel far hapier wiht a 100k mile car that has been to a garage 10 times than one that has been there 4 times.
There are common issued with 18t cars, coilpacks, MAFs, sometimes DMF failures, but generally, these can strike you anytime, as can window regulators on golfs and dashpods on pre 2002 TTs. ARB bushes on S3s and TTs, rear beam bushes on 2wd glfs etc, all will be shot well before 100k.
But as an engine, the 18t is pretty excellent, not the most refined or most characterful, but strong, tuneable, with excelent reliability.
I sold a 140k mile 18T golf for very strong money a few years back, it was a really solid car, all new bits where needed, but the motor had never needed touching apart from routine servicing.
Check cambelts and tensioners and waterpumps have been replaced, lots of oil in it, and you wont be ging too far wrong IMO. Alternators and starters last about 6-8 years IME, so if they are original you amy need them replacing soon.
poo at Paul's said:
Oh on 4wd verions of TT, wathc for squeeky rear suspension, could be simpley dry ARBs, but can also be seized inboard or outboard rear wishbone bushes, which can result in failure.
How about the early 3.2 tt's for durability and reliability?The breadknife is keen on a roadster?
Loteuk said:
poo at Paul's said:
Oh on 4wd verions of TT, wathc for squeeky rear suspension, could be simpley dry ARBs, but can also be seized inboard or outboard rear wishbone bushes, which can result in failure.
How about the early 3.2 tt's for durability and reliability?The breadknife is keen on a roadster?
The good news is they have heavier ARBS as stock, and althougha bit front heavy, they tend to handle a bit sharper due to the big ARBs, (a common mod for the 18TQ 225 TT is r32 style ARBs).
The TT gets a bit of a pasting due to image, and whilst it is far from the most dynamic vehicle out there, they are capable enough, relaible and dont provide too many scary bills, plus there are plenty of extremly knowledgeable Independant specialist repairers who are very cheap by comparison to dealers.
There are some decent spec'd higher miles TTs etc about now for very little money.
The 3.2 doesn't handle better than the 1.8. Totally disagree with that.
As to the original post, there are plenty on the TT forum with well over 100k now. If it's serviced well and has had cambelt done etc the engine is solid. Bar coilpacks going and boost issues. (MAF/N75 etc) None of these are very expensive.
It's other stuff that tends to go: arbs, heard of a few rear diffs going, I know a gearbox that went at 120k (remapped) etc.
I'd spent a little more where possible and get something slightly lower, but if your handy with a spanner most of the little jobs are DIY.
As to the original post, there are plenty on the TT forum with well over 100k now. If it's serviced well and has had cambelt done etc the engine is solid. Bar coilpacks going and boost issues. (MAF/N75 etc) None of these are very expensive.
It's other stuff that tends to go: arbs, heard of a few rear diffs going, I know a gearbox that went at 120k (remapped) etc.
I'd spent a little more where possible and get something slightly lower, but if your handy with a spanner most of the little jobs are DIY.
Mine has just ticked over 117k and is 9yrs old.
I have replaced the cambelt twice now, first, a year after I got it (5yrs/50k), and secondly, last week (9yrs/117k). As has been suggested, I switched from AVS to annual/10k 2years ago. The Haldex oil and filter also gets changed regularly. It's still going well, with few signs of wear in the cabin. The only major consumables bar tyres, are the suspension coils, which have a habit of rusting through at the bottom - apparently a bit of a design fault as water/mud collects at the bottom of the spring and doesn't drain out. I've have to had a new headlight and control unit (£678+VAT) thanks to water ingress, and a couple of suspension bushes, so the recent MOT that was done alongside the cambelt ensured a very steep bill (~£1.5k) for what is a £5k car. Only need to repair a few things that the ex managed to do (alloy refurb/speaker panel replacement), and a bit of an investigation into an airbag warning light - apparently there's a higher than normal resistance on the drivers seat bag, but I have no idea what that means.
Otherwise, it's a fine car, and is good enough for me at the moment.
I have replaced the cambelt twice now, first, a year after I got it (5yrs/50k), and secondly, last week (9yrs/117k). As has been suggested, I switched from AVS to annual/10k 2years ago. The Haldex oil and filter also gets changed regularly. It's still going well, with few signs of wear in the cabin. The only major consumables bar tyres, are the suspension coils, which have a habit of rusting through at the bottom - apparently a bit of a design fault as water/mud collects at the bottom of the spring and doesn't drain out. I've have to had a new headlight and control unit (£678+VAT) thanks to water ingress, and a couple of suspension bushes, so the recent MOT that was done alongside the cambelt ensured a very steep bill (~£1.5k) for what is a £5k car. Only need to repair a few things that the ex managed to do (alloy refurb/speaker panel replacement), and a bit of an investigation into an airbag warning light - apparently there's a higher than normal resistance on the drivers seat bag, but I have no idea what that means.
Otherwise, it's a fine car, and is good enough for me at the moment.
Mines only a baby at around 90,000 miles. Had 2 cambelt changes, which aren't that bad.
Recently had MAF issues, but not hugely expensive. Replaced the standard N75 for an N75J (beer money - well 4 beer money), Diverter Valves can go but upgrades are cheaper and better (Forge or APR).
I had issues with the VVT tensioner, which is a very uncommon problem so just pot luck there.
ARBs as well, but once again, decent upgrades are available.
No major issues. Just some annoying niggles
Recently had MAF issues, but not hugely expensive. Replaced the standard N75 for an N75J (beer money - well 4 beer money), Diverter Valves can go but upgrades are cheaper and better (Forge or APR).
I had issues with the VVT tensioner, which is a very uncommon problem so just pot luck there.
ARBs as well, but once again, decent upgrades are available.
No major issues. Just some annoying niggles
Usual wear and tear items, however I'd be looking for a bill for the clutch cylinder, cambelt and waterpump within the service book. I'd reject any cars that couldn't backup the cambelt splat in the service book with a receipt / invoice confirming that the waterpump had been changed at the time the belt and tensioner was. The clutch cylinder isn't an expensive part, but a proper wrist slicing b
d to change .... I'm never ever going to give anyone a hand that needs one of those doing!
d to change .... I'm never ever going to give anyone a hand that needs one of those doing!Having sorted the mortgage etc I'm now thinking about what to get next. I've had 3 MX5s and a VX220, so I’m looking for a 2 seater convertible! The TT looks a good choice considering the price. The 1.8 turbo looks like fun for 5-6K and I can drive it every day.
Options
TVR Chimaera
Honda S2000
Audi TT
Is the TT like driving a sportscar? I remember when my neighbour had an S2000 and it was like an armchair compared to my old VX220.
Mike
Options
TVR Chimaera
Honda S2000
Audi TT
Is the TT like driving a sportscar? I remember when my neighbour had an S2000 and it was like an armchair compared to my old VX220.
Mike
My S3 had over 150k on the clock when I wrote it off 
The normal things will need doing at some point in my opinion:
ARBs / Bushes
Wishbones / Bushes
Dampers are st as standard unless very low mileage
Clutch / dual mass flywheel (and it's pricey)
Coilpacks
MAF
Hoses (vacume ones mainly)
Rear brake calipers can seize
I wasn't lucky with the engine on mine but the above WILL need to be done at some point.
Check the gearbox goes into second smoothly from cold and check the car goes over bumps well and check all the bushes you can if seriously looking at an S3 / TT.
The normal things will need doing at some point in my opinion:
ARBs / Bushes
Wishbones / Bushes
Dampers are s
t as standard unless very low mileageClutch / dual mass flywheel (and it's pricey)
Coilpacks
MAF
Hoses (vacume ones mainly)
Rear brake calipers can seize
I wasn't lucky with the engine on mine but the above WILL need to be done at some point.
Check the gearbox goes into second smoothly from cold and check the car goes over bumps well and check all the bushes you can if seriously looking at an S3 / TT.
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