Non starting Griff working again!
Discussion
For reference to other users. I had a problem that my Griff 4.3 didn't start. It cranked, but apparently did not get a spark/ignition. I first bought a new ignition amp. No change. I started to suspect and fear the immobilizer. I have the old Gemini and key fob system. They are two separate systems with a terribly complicated wiring. Then I read in the recent Chim PH article about a connector close to the ignition coil. Mine doesn't have this, but looking more around I discovered another connector at the back between the bulkhead and dipstick. I must have accidentally pulled it off when I checked the oil level! The connector goes back into the loom of the AFM.
Problem solved I hoped, but alas it still didn't start. Then I changed back to my old ignition amp, because the replacement was found via cross reference. It runs!
I hope this helps others. Be careful with the ignition amp. Although they look the same, apparently there are internal differences! And watch out disconnecting connectors when checking your oil!
Peter
Problem solved I hoped, but alas it still didn't start. Then I changed back to my old ignition amp, because the replacement was found via cross reference. It runs!
I hope this helps others. Be careful with the ignition amp. Although they look the same, apparently there are internal differences! And watch out disconnecting connectors when checking your oil!
Peter
An update. Tried to drive it today and it would only run when I pressed the pedal and kept it around 2000 RPM. Otherwise it would stall. Restarting afterwards was difficult.
It turned out that I reversed the ignition amp leads to the distributor. I thought it was an AC-signal, but apparently it does matter how you connect the magnetic sensor to the amplifier! Now it runs sweet, better than before. Better throttle response as well. It used to run a bit rough/uneven. I suspect it was related to the earth of the amplifier. Strange that the amp and its wiring is so critical.
Peter
It turned out that I reversed the ignition amp leads to the distributor. I thought it was an AC-signal, but apparently it does matter how you connect the magnetic sensor to the amplifier! Now it runs sweet, better than before. Better throttle response as well. It used to run a bit rough/uneven. I suspect it was related to the earth of the amplifier. Strange that the amp and its wiring is so critical.
Peter
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