Replacing clutchplate on a 400SE ...........please help !

[cantus]

This weekend we will replace the plate, pressure group and bearring on a 400SE from a friend of us.
Is this a simple job ? Do I have to remove the gearbox or can I slide it backwards a little?
Or do I have to move the engine a bit forward ?
Any recommendations ? Tips and tricks please.

regards
William

[rev-erend]

William,

It's a bit more than that .. you will also need an engine crane.

The gearbox does not move back and you have two choices :

Remove engine (move forward 6 inches)
or
Remove water pump and have the engine move forward.

Easiest is actually the first option - removing the engine - up and forwards.

Allow approx 8 hrs to remove and a further 8 to get in all back together and running again.

A good mechanic/garage will probably do the entire job in 8 hrs but wedges being old will have issues like bolts getting stuck etc.

Hints:
Manifolds have to be disconnected at the head - tie they to the chassis rails to keep them out of the way, undo all manifold bolts a little before removing all bolts.

Check condition of : Crank spigot bearing, clutch release arm .. if in any doubt replace it as they only cost about £30 and break just after a new clutch is installed. I strengthened mine .. I'll post a picture later.

[rev-erend]

Strengthened release arm :

The plate on the top covers the fulcrum (pivot point)

Edited by rev-erend on Tuesday 30th March 10:46

[cantus]

Hallo Alan,
Ok !! that is clear. So gearbox and propshaft stay in position?
I heared a story about removing a small chassisrod (tube) which makes it possible to remove the gearbox. I didn't check that . Do you know anything about that ?

[Bodmin]

There was a mod being carried out by some people were one of the chassis tubes was cut out & adapted so that it could be bolted back into place once the gearbox was refitted. Not sure how that affected the structural integrety though.

If you go down the engine removal route and use a mobile engine crane make sure you have extra bodies available to stand on the back of the crane. Due to the front overhang of the car the crane has to be at almost its full reach and as Rev & I found out once the back of the crane goes 'light' ......used a tractor with a loader the second time, bugger didn't tip forward then

Bodders

[rev-erend]

Well it's always possible to cut the tube but it does not make the job much easier .. and the fabrication to put it back as strong as it was before is very long winded.

As Richard says - a tractor can also be used as a very good engine crane