Testing HT Leads?
Author
Discussion

smack

Original Poster:

9,777 posts

222 months

Wednesday 31st March 2010
quotequote all
Hey all,
Is there a way to test HT leads, with a multimeter or something else.

Symptom - the car (Volvo 850), had starting a week or two ago started to miss at low revs on a short drive back from the shops (currently the car isn't do many miles), with the only difference is that is really started raining hard in the 30 minutes I was shopping. Since then, over about 30 miles, it occasionally kept doing it at <1800 revs, usually worse after a short run, stop, then start again.
Today went for a 10 mile/20min drive missing under 1800 rpm (wet again), stop for 2 hours, and on the way back, it was much worse, missing under 2500rpm.

I suspect it is the leads, and a moisture is making it worse. Haven't checked anything yet, waiting for the rain to stop!

Anyone have advice on this? Cheers.

Reedy156

353 posts

207 months

Wednesday 31st March 2010
quotequote all
remove one plug at a time from the engine and push the plug into the corresponding HT lead, hold by a rubber piece of the HT lead and put the spark plug against/very close to the engine block and have someone turn the engine over - no spark, knackered lead/plug/coil pack etc - if there is strong spark move on to next plug and repeat!!... this is an old method, I am sure someone will come along with a modern alternative!!

Wear rubber gloves if you can and do not do it if damp on the leads as the current can give a hell of a kick if ther HT lead insulation is fooked!!!!

HTH

Edited by Reedy156 on Wednesday 31st March 16:48

bazking69

8,620 posts

221 months

Wednesday 31st March 2010
quotequote all
Or just use a screwdriver in the end of each lead and sit it on the head, metal touching metal, testing each lead in turn for a spark. Alot easier than removing the plugs...

smack

Original Poster:

9,777 posts

222 months

Sunday 4th April 2010
quotequote all
Pulled the HT leads of yesterday, and found one lead has a break in it, fluctuating/lossing resistance with I move it. So I guess it was arcing in the lead over the last 50 miles, and burning the copper, slowly making it worse.
Though I doubt I will be able to get replacement leads until Wednesday thanks to Easter....

littlebasher

3,970 posts

202 months

Sunday 4th April 2010
quotequote all
Remove lead, place the business end in your mouth and have an assistant crank the engine.

If severe pain is not encountered, the lead is probably faulty.

nottyash

4,671 posts

226 months

Sunday 4th April 2010
quotequote all
Leave the engine running on a very dark night, look under the bonnet for sparking/ arcing. If there is thats your problem.
You can also get a spray bottle and spray water on the leads, if the car starts to splutter your leads are fooked. Remember to thoroughly dry and spray wd40 on afterwards.
2 tried and tested methods.
edited to add:
It could be the dizzy cap cracked. I had the same problem on my Golf. Changed dizzy cap, leads and rotor arm, whole lot was £50 and cured it!

Edited by nottyash on Sunday 4th April 21:17

pacman1

7,324 posts

224 months

NiceCupOfTea

25,607 posts

282 months

Sunday 4th April 2010
quotequote all
They should have a certain resistance - if they're outside the tolerances then they're knackered. Workshop manual should list the ranges of resistance for each lead.

perdu

4,885 posts

230 months

Sunday 4th April 2010
quotequote all
average resistance is 15Kohms per metre of pluglead

DIS sytems usually use leads with 30Kohms per metre

so for a Monjo with DIS a lead .5 mtr long ought to measure about 15K (give or take a bit 'cos I am useless at sums)

if you can get the burnt/broken end out of the connection you can often make a temporary repair good enough to last over Easter. Continuity is often made by a piece of wire in the core that contacts a metal part of the cap interior