Help Needed: God only knows........
Discussion
Yesterday, I went to start the Nob and as I placed the keys in the ignition all appeared normal. I flicked the ignition on and deactivated the tracker, pressed the start button and click, click, then the battery light and the alternator light went very dim and nothing. Checked the battery. 13.8v but placed it on charge overnight. This morning everything as usual, except it did the same again. With the battery charger connected, the car caught and started fine. Disconnected the battery charger, and took it for a 15 mile spin. All normal. When I got back I shut it down and attempted a restart. All ok.
I Then left it 15 minutes and tried again. exactly as before, click...click. So I'm fed up by now and decide to address it later on. Get out and blip the alarm. Nothing. Tried the key in the ignition, no lights or clicks. Took the key out and the alarm went off. tried cancelling the alarm. Nope, no luck. Spent 30 minutes cramming the alarm siren to mute it so I could have a bloody look at the dam thing. finally got the alarm to shut up. Then tried locking the doors, nothing. Opened the door and the bloody alarm went off again.
Now I have:
No ignition lights.
No response from the alarm.
No fuses blown - that I can see.
No noise - thank god!
No way of locking it.
and no f
king idea.
I Then left it 15 minutes and tried again. exactly as before, click...click. So I'm fed up by now and decide to address it later on. Get out and blip the alarm. Nothing. Tried the key in the ignition, no lights or clicks. Took the key out and the alarm went off. tried cancelling the alarm. Nope, no luck. Spent 30 minutes cramming the alarm siren to mute it so I could have a bloody look at the dam thing. finally got the alarm to shut up. Then tried locking the doors, nothing. Opened the door and the bloody alarm went off again.
Now I have:
No ignition lights.
No response from the alarm.
No fuses blown - that I can see.
No noise - thank god!
No way of locking it.
and no f
king idea.Removed, inspected and cleaned the four fuses on the bulkhead, and the main 80A. All connections seem dry and clean. I silicone greased them ages ago, to stop any form of water ingress.
As to the relays, I'm unsure as to which you are referring to? The ones in the footwell? I have a diagram, regarding which are which, but they all seem for either lights or windscreen wipers.
As to the relays, I'm unsure as to which you are referring to? The ones in the footwell? I have a diagram, regarding which are which, but they all seem for either lights or windscreen wipers.
Stella Artois said:
Removed, inspected and cleaned the four fuses on the bulkhead, and the main 80A. All connections seem dry and clean. I silicone greased them ages ago, to stop any form of water ingress.
As to the relays, I'm unsure as to which you are referring to? The ones in the footwell? I have a diagram, regarding which are which, but they all seem for either lights or windscreen wipers.
No, aren't there relays in the same (engine bulkhead) area as the fuses you mention?As to the relays, I'm unsure as to which you are referring to? The ones in the footwell? I have a diagram, regarding which are which, but they all seem for either lights or windscreen wipers.
The click, click noise is the starter motor solenoid engaging and then dis-engaging. What happens is the solenoid engages, the starter motor starts to turn, you get a big current draw, the volts drop and the solenoid dis-engages, then the cycle repeats, hence click, click, click.
The battery could be goosed. They tend to go just like that, once minute they are find, the next they are knackered and so it wont hold it's charge.
Another possibility is the earth. Grab hold of the one from the battery and waggle it, it could have rusted and might come away with a bit of a tug. Again, if the earth has gone it will try and start, big current draw but though a very high resistance path, so big volt drop ( as above ).
Or the earth strap from the engine to the chassis could be bad. Take a jump lead and connect from the block to the chassis and try starting it.
To me it sounds like the battery has has it.
In order :
Check the earth from the battery to the chassis.
Try a jump lead from the block to chassis.
Stick a new battery in ( not the easiest job ! )
The battery could be goosed. They tend to go just like that, once minute they are find, the next they are knackered and so it wont hold it's charge.
Another possibility is the earth. Grab hold of the one from the battery and waggle it, it could have rusted and might come away with a bit of a tug. Again, if the earth has gone it will try and start, big current draw but though a very high resistance path, so big volt drop ( as above ).
Or the earth strap from the engine to the chassis could be bad. Take a jump lead and connect from the block to the chassis and try starting it.
To me it sounds like the battery has has it.
In order :
Check the earth from the battery to the chassis.
Try a jump lead from the block to chassis.
Stick a new battery in ( not the easiest job ! )
I would cedk the relays, exactly the same happend to me.
On the bulk head behind the driver.
They are installed upside down as standard and water gets in, eventually they rust and all you get is click, click, click. Bloody annoying.
If it is this, take the holder out and turn it the other way up, stops the water getting in.
On the bulk head behind the driver.
They are installed upside down as standard and water gets in, eventually they rust and all you get is click, click, click. Bloody annoying.
If it is this, take the holder out and turn it the other way up, stops the water getting in.
stewey said:
Defo the battery is knackered. Had exactly the same on mine...checked everything possible and the battery did seem fine. Changed the battery and all was good!
+1When I tried to open the doors they didn't unlock, but alarm went off because of the voltage drop and it thought it was being nicked.
Yes Type 075, somebody on here recommended a Bosch silver plus. I got mine from halfords, £100 or £66 with a trade card
, left the car for nearly a month and still started first time. Just make sure you get the Sliver Plus (all silver) and not just the Silver (blue top).Managed to get a Halfrauds HD Cadmium type 75. £89.99, but £53 with my trade card. Removed the old battery and checked charge. 12.8v, Left the new one on boost for an hour and checked the charge. 14v. Banged the new one in a simple task......... yeah right. The fitting is simple its the getting to the outboard battery tie that annoyed me.
It seems to have done the trick.
All systems normal, thanks for all the input. I now know the location of the relays. Fortunately they have all been sealed with silicone which saved me a job.
So, I'd be a happy bunny, but the missus pointed out that it was "Smoking" from the left exhaust. Not smoke but steam, oh yes.... Head Gasket gone again by the looks of it...... so I'm royally pissed off now, as its the third time in 4 months. and not even 500 miles since the last one.
It seems to have done the trick.
All systems normal, thanks for all the input. I now know the location of the relays. Fortunately they have all been sealed with silicone which saved me a job.
So, I'd be a happy bunny, but the missus pointed out that it was "Smoking" from the left exhaust. Not smoke but steam, oh yes.... Head Gasket gone again by the looks of it...... so I'm royally pissed off now, as its the third time in 4 months. and not even 500 miles since the last one.
Has the engine been roasted, if you keep blowing head gaskets, you must have a distorted head or block, have you clocked them, its going to be very difficult to do the block in the car. We did get a duff head gasket last year, that had us scratching our heads.
I'm assuming thatyour not making huge amounts of boost!
I'm assuming thatyour not making huge amounts of boost!
The heads were skimmed on both HG cx previous, with a 1 thou discrepancy across the length, the blocked been DTI'd and I seem to recall the same 1 thou deviation. A std gasket should be able to smooth out up to 6 thou I'm told.
Boost is not exceptionally high, although slightly higher than standard, but I've had Hybrid turbo's fitted too. Will have to see.
Temps have never been over 90 prior to the Pro Alloy Intercooler, since fitment of that, they have never breached 84
Boost is not exceptionally high, although slightly higher than standard, but I've had Hybrid turbo's fitted too. Will have to see.
Temps have never been over 90 prior to the Pro Alloy Intercooler, since fitment of that, they have never breached 84
Edited by Stella Artois on Tuesday 6th April 12:51
On previous occasions it was the rear bank but I had a single system exhaust prior. I'm guessing this is the front bank as its exiting from the left hand exhaust (dual system now) and it is more noticeable on cold start. I initially put this down to condensation within the exhaust as it cleared quite quickly, however it was today that my missus pointed out the the coolant level was non existent. I have checked just now, that there are no coolant hose leaks. Dry as a bone, in fact the whole engine bay is dry. Indicating to me that the jacket is breeched into the forward bank combustion chamber.
Stella Artois said:
On previous occasions it was the rear bank but I had a single system exhaust prior. I'm guessing this is the front bank as its exiting from the left hand exhaust (dual system now) and it is more noticeable on cold start. I initially put this down to condensation within the exhaust as it cleared quite quickly, however it was today that my missus pointed out the the coolant level was non existent. I have checked just now, that there are no coolant hose leaks. Dry as a bone, in fact the whole engine bay is dry. Indicating to me that the jacket is breeched into the forward bank combustion chamber.
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