Starting problem

[rockwarrior25]

The weathers back where it should be but i've developed an intermittent starting problem!

The ignition comes on, i can hear the fuel pumps prime but when I press the starter, I just get a single 'click' sound.

Tried about 7 or 8 times, had a fag, scratched my head, tried again and it fired up.

Its done it a couple of times now but i think i need to do something before i get stranded.

Any Ideas??

[Steve_T]

Matt, could be the immobiliser has a relay sticking. The cut for the fuel pump will be separate to the one for the starter circuit. For advice speak to Carl Baker on 07720723407.

[high52kojak]

It could be your starter, the solenoid could be sticking.

[ttmr]

Exactly what mine did straight after I picked it up,found to be just dirty connections,hope yours is as simple!

[tur8o]

mine does exactly the same again! had new starter motor, new start relay, second hand ignition module and some wiring re-done. so frustrating because its just spent some time at the garage getting it running right and when it starts its a pleasure to drive now. will be watching this thread closely for other possible solutions.

[Ireland]

The starter motor circuit in the immobiliser is faulty.

[ridds]

Check the main power and earth cables to the starter and from the engine. The solenoid clicking means it's working as it should but there is increased resistance preventing sufficient power to turn the starter.

[ridds]

Check the main power and earth cables to the starter and from the engine. The solenoid clicking means it's working as it should but there is increased resistance preventing sufficient power to turn the starter.

[Ireland]

And make sure to do that twice.

[rockwarrior25]

Just got back after another stranding!

It seems that the problems occur when the engine is hot - is it likely that the solonoid is expanding with the heat & sticking?

When it cooled down, it started no problem

has anyone else experienced this? either way its time to get the starter out and have a look.

where do i begin getting the fuel rail off. i understand theres o-rings which can fall out??

[high52kojak]

You can get the starter out without removing the fuel rail so people say, but I removed mine as I could see no way of getting it out with it still in place. You can get a replacement solenoid ( McNasty has a supply ), this is the cheap fix or you could go the whole hog and spend £300 on a new starter.

There are two O rings on each injector, if they have been renewed recently they should be ok, but they wont just fall off when you remove the rail. One seals the injector into the fuel rail, the other seals between the injector and inlet manifold.

[Ireland]

Did you try the immobiliser yet?

It can act up when warm as well as when cold.

Try hitting it / shaking the loom going into it while pressing the start button (easier said than done but it is possible).

It took me months to figure out it was faulty on my car.

Oh, and it took about 10 minutes to get mobile again once I diagnosed it.

[Jitzz]

I had the exact same problem on my 4.2...... clicking on the button and leaving me stranded on a couple of occasions ...- see my post

I tried a number of solutions mainly:-

• Immobiliser by pass on the starter circuit - problem remained
• Re-newed the cabling to and from the starter - problem remained
• Replaced the solenoid - problem remained
• Replaced battery and big fuse - problem still remained !!

Anyway, I checked the starter condition by running a direct feed to the positive end on the starter and she'd spin like a good'un - nothing wrong with that then, so must be a resistence thing to the starter. So I made an additional switch as a back up just in case the main button fails.

After all that I'm still looking for the cerbera starting 'Holy Grail'

Apologies for not providing a definitive solution.....still it does start up, one way or another !!

Regards

Jitzz

[crazymatelot]

I had this problem with my 4.2. Still does it from time to time. Garage had a look and tells me that when this situation arises there are only 10 volts getting to the starter motor. They traced the problem to somewhere just in front of the fuse box in the boot. Apparently when it refused to start they wiggled the harness there and it fired up. If only 10 volts are getting to the starter motor I think it probably points to the alarm/immobiliser system. I can't think of anything else that would interfere with voltage in this way, other that a bad connection.
edited to add:-
But even that can't be right. If you put 12v on the starter motor the solenoid throws the bendix forward, and the plunger goes backwards thereby making contact with the main heavy duty cable and the starter turns the engine over. I for the life of me cannot see how the immobiliser can affect the starter, other than stopping voltage going to the solenoid, it is just not logical, or am I missing something?

Edited by crazymatelot on Saturday 17th April 21:45

[ridds]

Engine to chassis and Chassis to battery terminals and cabling. Even if the are tight, take the off and clean then. Pretty sure it's a resistance issue still. Once the solenoid is thrown forward there's only 3 cables that can effect the outcome.

[headcase]

crazymatelot said:

I had this problem with my 4.2. Still does it from time to time. Garage had a look and tells me that when this situation arises there are only 10 volts getting to the starter motor. They traced the problem to somewhere just in front of the fuse box in the boot. Apparently when it refused to start they wiggled the harness there and it fired up. If only 10 volts are getting to the starter motor I think it probably points to the alarm/immobiliser system. I can't think of anything else that would interfere with voltage in this way, other that a bad connection.
edited to add:-
But even that can't be right. If you put 12v on the starter motor the solenoid throws the bendix forward, and the plunger goes backwards thereby making contact with the main heavy duty cable and the starter turns the engine over. I for the life of me cannot see how the immobiliser can affect the starter, other than stopping voltage going to the solenoid, it is just not logical, or am I missing something?

Edited by crazymatelot on Saturday 17th April 21:45

If you only get 10v at the solenoid then it will just click, basically the solenoid dosent move far enough to engage the high current contacts in there. There was a definitive fix posted up ages ago. What was said is as follows,

Disconnect the feed to the Solenoid and use this to supply the coil on a 12v relay.
Take a new feed from the battery, fit an inline fuse (close to the battery) and supply the input to relay contact.
The output contact connects to the starter solenoid.

The logic behind this is sound and i can see it working but it isnt fixing the fault its kinda just sidestepping it
The reason it works is that it is alot easier to power a 12v relay than it is the solenoid. Try doing a search for 'Missing relay' as that is what it is referred to, i believe it is a standard mod on the Chimera.

[WorAl]

I have exactly the same problem on mine (S6), I personally think it must just be bad connection/decomposing wiring, Happens both hot and cold and can happen once, can happen 10 times before firing. Hence the reason to think bad connection.

[headcase]

Your proberbly right, the signal path for the starter circuit goes all over the car via several connectors, there are plenty of places it could break down.

[rockwarrior25]

Hi All,

Thanks for your comments...Heres an update..

We established that the starter was faulty by running a fly lead to the starter.

Removed fuel rail, coils & coil plate, Starter.

Rebuilt starter motor

Rebuilt 'sealed'(!) unit solonoid & Found problem. Two studs on solonoid (constant and ignition feeds) have a square 'heads' on them inside the casing.

One side had worn that it wasn't making properly. i.e feed going to solonoid hence the 'click', but not firing the motor.

We turned these round and hey presto!

Put eveything back together and starter works perfectly

But in the process we've lost a cylinder - Checked and double checked coil leads but if anyone has a diagram of coil to cylinder, that would be great!

going to throw some injector cleaner in to see if that helps.

[FarmyardPants]

rockwarrior25 said:

going to throw some injector cleaner in to see if that helps.

Last time I used injector cleaner my O2 sensors mysteriously died a short while after. Just a word of caution!