Rear crankcase seal replacement.

[TJS10]

The initial message was deleted from this topic on 27 January 2021 at 13:08

[TVR Beaver]

Just the box out I would have thought... My cars on its orig clutch at 48K so if it's in good condition.. why bother?? However, if you are paying for it doing and the associated labour costs.. it may well in that case be worth a new clutch

[JonathanT]

I recently had mine done on a Chim 450 with a T5 gearbox as it was leaking too. The garage dropped the gearbox only and I got them to replace the clutch at the same time (it was slipping at 50K miles and what came out looked quite worn).

Labour ran to "about 300 quid + VAT".

[dnb]

It should take about 5 minutes longer than a clutch change. Not exactly good for fitting a £5 part... My original clutch lasted 100k miles, so you may not need to change it. But if you do, go for something good otherwise it's a complete false economy.

Other than checking the condition of the clutch, gearbox front oil seal and chassis above the gearbox, I can't remember there being anything else to cause trouble in that area. It would also be worth looking at the propshaft UJs, but they can be done at any time.

[TVR Beaver]

What about the clutch fork... there is a post in the Chimp forum on this now:-

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... help needed regarding new clutch

Also thrust bearing (but assume you'd do this with the clutch anyway)

Edited by TVR Beaver on Friday 9th April 12:18

[spend]

Be absolutely sure the leak is not from the rear of the rocker covers, valley gasket or even the back of the sump.

It's a flipping lot of work to find the leak is somewhere else

ETA: .. and make sure your PCV stuff is working well & noone has molested it (like drilling through the mushroom under the foam filter on the n/s rocker cover)... Creating the correct vacuum in the crankcase should be sucking in if there is a leak rather than blowing out...

Edited by spend on Friday 9th April 13:35