Timing gears - 3000S
Discussion
As I plan to drop the sump to clean out something unwanted !, I was advised to check the timing gear at the same time as it's easier to remove the front cover with the sump removed.
Anything difficult to take care about? What should I check when the cover is off ?
She's done over 100K but I don't know whether the gears have been replaced in the past.
BTW, while looking at the underside from the front, I can see a section of the flywheel below the starter - should it be covered with something?
Anything difficult to take care about? What should I check when the cover is off ?
She's done over 100K but I don't know whether the gears have been replaced in the past.
BTW, while looking at the underside from the front, I can see a section of the flywheel below the starter - should it be covered with something?
Hi,
The timing gear has a steel center with nylon teeth which can break if too old or subject to high load, (at high revs aso). I used a new original gear when I renovated my engine and used it for many years without problems even at high revs, (6500 RPM during swift acceleration) but changed to an all steel gear some years ago, it was a bit more noisy at first but is not a problem now.
I dont believe there is any use of checking for damage on the nylon teeth, if there are any visible damage it is probably a few seconds from shattering anyway. If any doubt replace with new nylon gear or exchange steel or aluminimum one, Burton have steel gear some others have alu gear.
"BTW, while looking at the underside from the front, I can see a section of the flywheel below the starter - should it be covered with something?"
Yes, there should be a steel plate fasten in the clutch housing that should cover the flywheel, the plate have an drain opening at the bottom. It is probably best to have that plate in place to hinder any stones or other debris to interfere with the flywheel.
Regards Hans
The timing gear has a steel center with nylon teeth which can break if too old or subject to high load, (at high revs aso). I used a new original gear when I renovated my engine and used it for many years without problems even at high revs, (6500 RPM during swift acceleration) but changed to an all steel gear some years ago, it was a bit more noisy at first but is not a problem now.
I dont believe there is any use of checking for damage on the nylon teeth, if there are any visible damage it is probably a few seconds from shattering anyway. If any doubt replace with new nylon gear or exchange steel or aluminimum one, Burton have steel gear some others have alu gear.
"BTW, while looking at the underside from the front, I can see a section of the flywheel below the starter - should it be covered with something?"
Yes, there should be a steel plate fasten in the clutch housing that should cover the flywheel, the plate have an drain opening at the bottom. It is probably best to have that plate in place to hinder any stones or other debris to interfere with the flywheel.
Regards Hans
valve said:
Yes, there should be a steel plate fasten in the clutch housing that should cover the flywheel
Thanks .... I just checked with a Ford Capri spares specialist and got the following answer :
QUOTE
The plate used by Ford was made of cardboard, they all rotted and disappeared years ago, not available new now.
Ford only put them on MK1 Capri and just left it open on MK2 and MK3.
UNQUOTE
I guess if there is a steel part available, I'll have to source via a breakers...
Just for the achives.....The V6 came with waxed card cover fitted with tappit style fixings, the reason for being card was to absorb moisture that might be absorbed into the clutch plate and cause the plate to rust to either the fly wheel or clutch cover. All the metal units I think you will find will be after market.
More for the achives.... the cause of nylon teeth stripping is thought to be poor servicing, not any failing in the type of materials used by Ford, below the distributor is a 2mm oil feed that sprays oil onto the meshing point between the two gear as the car is running, if this gets blocked the gear will strip, even worse is if you change the gear to steel and don't problem-solve the cause.
adrian@ said:
below the distributor is a 2mm oil feed that sprays oil onto the meshing point between the two gear as the car is running
I guess if the gears looked 'oiled', then the oil feed is probably working. BTW, I see that the fuel pump also sits on the timing cover. Do you need to remove it before removing the cover itself? My Haynes guide doesn't mention it?
The fact that the gear looks oiled is not enough .....splashing from the sump below will make every thing look oily, the 2mm hole feeds the meshing points. The fuel pump would not need to come off before you remove the cover but will need to be off to replace the cover as it will need the arm to be place on its cam.
"The V6 came with waxed card cover fitted with tappit style fixings"
Where is the tappit fixings supposed to fit? The steel cover I have is fixed with 4 screws screwed into the gearbox, (there are 4 threaded holes in the lower part of the clutch housing) Are the same holes used for the tappit fixings?
BTW, the gearbox and steel plate came from different sources in my case so the holes are not made specially for the plate I believe.
Regards Hans
Where is the tappit fixings supposed to fit? The steel cover I have is fixed with 4 screws screwed into the gearbox, (there are 4 threaded holes in the lower part of the clutch housing) Are the same holes used for the tappit fixings?
BTW, the gearbox and steel plate came from different sources in my case so the holes are not made specially for the plate I believe.
Regards Hans
[quote=valve]"The V6 came with waxed card cover fitted with tappit style fixings"
Where is the tappit fixings supposed to fit? The steel cover I have is fixed with 4 screws screwed into the gearbox, (there are 4 threaded holes in the lower part of the clutch housing) Are the same holes used for the tappit fixings?
Yes they fit in the 4 holes that your plate is fitted to, it is that someone in the past has tapped a thread into these holes to mount the plate.
>> Edited by adrian@ on Tuesday 2nd March 08:36
Where is the tappit fixings supposed to fit? The steel cover I have is fixed with 4 screws screwed into the gearbox, (there are 4 threaded holes in the lower part of the clutch housing) Are the same holes used for the tappit fixings?
Yes they fit in the 4 holes that your plate is fitted to, it is that someone in the past has tapped a thread into these holes to mount the plate.
>> Edited by adrian@ on Tuesday 2nd March 08:36
"Yes they fit in the 4 holes that your plate is fitted to, it is that someone in the past has tapped a thread into these holes to mount the plate."
Sorry, but it seems to be too much of a coincidense that a gearbox separately imported from England is tapped to accept a steel cover that came from a car sold in Sweden.
Are you sure that the steel plate has not been original at some time, mine have Ford markings and is clearly profesionally made by stamping in a hydralic press like similar items are made by the Ford factory.
Regards Hans
Sorry, but it seems to be too much of a coincidense that a gearbox separately imported from England is tapped to accept a steel cover that came from a car sold in Sweden.
Are you sure that the steel plate has not been original at some time, mine have Ford markings and is clearly profesionally made by stamping in a hydralic press like similar items are made by the Ford factory.
Regards Hans
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