Poorly unloved S60 T5
Discussion
Just bought a S60 T5 2001, and i love it (sort of)
So far i have a list longer than my arm to sort out!!
first off i want to fix the broken parts and sort out a good stage 0 before attempting any remapping/porting/changing turbos about
It managed to tear the top engine mount all by its self on the same day i bought it!
Tracking is miles out! so maybe some wishbone,engine and strut power flex bushes and a decent Geo will sort that out?
Exhaust is on its way out, but looking at Volvo prices i will wait until it falls off and make my self a custom one,
Its never had a timing belt, and also by the looks of it never had a fuel filter change,
So im thinking a full major service including gear box flush and fill is in need!
Should i change the water pump and tensioner/idle pullys whilst im there or is it not really needed as this is going to cost a fair bit at the end,
Samco silicon piping will be used to change all vacuum pipes, how much of 3/6mm will be needed to change the lot over?
I have a idle problem also jumps up and down 100-200 rpm disconnected the MAF and made no difference i found 2 sensors next to each other on a pipe that goes to/from the inter cooler i d/c that and it seem to idle nice, reconnected it and it was lumpy again(and now threw up a engine management light!) what is that sensor called??
Is it also worth taking the inter cooler out and giving the inside and out sides a good clean?
Change fan belt aswell whilst its all off?
Is there any thing i have missed? and what would you change to a unloved S60 T5,
body work is mint!
Many thanks
Alex
So far i have a list longer than my arm to sort out!!
first off i want to fix the broken parts and sort out a good stage 0 before attempting any remapping/porting/changing turbos about
It managed to tear the top engine mount all by its self on the same day i bought it!
Tracking is miles out! so maybe some wishbone,engine and strut power flex bushes and a decent Geo will sort that out?
Exhaust is on its way out, but looking at Volvo prices i will wait until it falls off and make my self a custom one,
Its never had a timing belt, and also by the looks of it never had a fuel filter change,
So im thinking a full major service including gear box flush and fill is in need!
Should i change the water pump and tensioner/idle pullys whilst im there or is it not really needed as this is going to cost a fair bit at the end,
Samco silicon piping will be used to change all vacuum pipes, how much of 3/6mm will be needed to change the lot over?
I have a idle problem also jumps up and down 100-200 rpm disconnected the MAF and made no difference i found 2 sensors next to each other on a pipe that goes to/from the inter cooler i d/c that and it seem to idle nice, reconnected it and it was lumpy again(and now threw up a engine management light!) what is that sensor called??
Is it also worth taking the inter cooler out and giving the inside and out sides a good clean?
Change fan belt aswell whilst its all off?
Is there any thing i have missed? and what would you change to a unloved S60 T5,
body work is mint!
Many thanks
Alex
Good luck with it!
Engine top mounts don't last long. There is a newer design available which lasts a bit longer, and I think there are polybush versions around too. (From PartsForVolvo I think)
If its an auto, then a gearbox flush is well worth doing. The box must be filled through the dipstick tube, and the oil should be red not brown and burnt smelling. You need to fill it with JCW3309 spec ATF. Dex3 or other fluid won't do! You'll need 10-12 litres to do a propper flush. The Volvo ATF costs about £18 per litre, but Vauxhall do exactly the same stuff for about £7 per litre.
You will find it helpful to 'find' a copy of Volvo Vadis software. I've found it invaluable, and it will help you identify sensors and give the part numbers etc.
Also, you might want to pick up a PPC Diagnostic reader for reading and clearing DTC's. They're about £120 or so but worth every penny! A vanilla OBDII reader will not give you all of the codes from all of the ECU's. There are lots of ECU's!
HTH
Engine top mounts don't last long. There is a newer design available which lasts a bit longer, and I think there are polybush versions around too. (From PartsForVolvo I think)
If its an auto, then a gearbox flush is well worth doing. The box must be filled through the dipstick tube, and the oil should be red not brown and burnt smelling. You need to fill it with JCW3309 spec ATF. Dex3 or other fluid won't do! You'll need 10-12 litres to do a propper flush. The Volvo ATF costs about £18 per litre, but Vauxhall do exactly the same stuff for about £7 per litre.
You will find it helpful to 'find' a copy of Volvo Vadis software. I've found it invaluable, and it will help you identify sensors and give the part numbers etc.
Also, you might want to pick up a PPC Diagnostic reader for reading and clearing DTC's. They're about £120 or so but worth every penny! A vanilla OBDII reader will not give you all of the codes from all of the ECU's. There are lots of ECU's!
HTH
You shouldn't disconnect sensors whilst the engine is running - it will store a fault code on the ECU - try removing the ECU and leaving it out over night - sometimes clears the fault code memory - if not you'll have have to plug in the OBD to clear the code. As for Cambelt, Volvo tensioners are some of the best i've seen and often don't need changing however, if it was me then I would be changing them along with the aux drive belt - I'd fit a genuine belt if not that a Gates from your local motor factor. I wouldn't bother changing the water pump unless you really feel it needs doing. The ETM system will more than likely need cleaning out and resetting. Get some quality oil in it and clean out the breather system - I wouldn't bother cleaning out the intercooler
You might want to look at the crankcase breather too (this is located under the inlet manifold and usually blocks up causing oil leaks), its easy to replace just unbolt it and replace with a new part and pipes/clips.
If your changing the timing belt a replacement aux belt will be on the list too, you have to take this off to get to the timing belt.....
I would not bother with the water pump unless its leaking or suspect.
On these engines split pipes can make the engine rough or maybe a split intercooler!! and disconnecting the sensor may be disguising it, a couple of runs out will have put your light out even though there will still be a fault code stored in the ECU (you have to remove it with a code reader). If you choose to remove the battery or dissconnect the ECU be prepared to drive a different car afterwards, what no on on here tells you is that after doing these things adaptions are re-set and the car may drive slightly differently.
Fuel filters/Pollen filters/Air filters etc... change them when you get a new car anyway this i think most people do for piece of mind knowing that they have been changed rather than checked!!
Suspension bushes are quite difficult to change but the track rods are regular wear items and should be checked for play and while your there check the rack for leaks and change the oil in the power steering - no one ever does this at services but the oil gets very dirty in a short timespan.
Brakes are worth looking into, Front are usually viewable through the wheels but be prepared with a set of handbrake shoes if you are going to take the rear discs off as they(shoes and friction linings) always seperate upon removal.
Other than that you have a good engine to work with and i wish you many miles of good driving!!!
Paul
If your changing the timing belt a replacement aux belt will be on the list too, you have to take this off to get to the timing belt.....
I would not bother with the water pump unless its leaking or suspect.
On these engines split pipes can make the engine rough or maybe a split intercooler!! and disconnecting the sensor may be disguising it, a couple of runs out will have put your light out even though there will still be a fault code stored in the ECU (you have to remove it with a code reader). If you choose to remove the battery or dissconnect the ECU be prepared to drive a different car afterwards, what no on on here tells you is that after doing these things adaptions are re-set and the car may drive slightly differently.
Fuel filters/Pollen filters/Air filters etc... change them when you get a new car anyway this i think most people do for piece of mind knowing that they have been changed rather than checked!!
Suspension bushes are quite difficult to change but the track rods are regular wear items and should be checked for play and while your there check the rack for leaks and change the oil in the power steering - no one ever does this at services but the oil gets very dirty in a short timespan.
Brakes are worth looking into, Front are usually viewable through the wheels but be prepared with a set of handbrake shoes if you are going to take the rear discs off as they(shoes and friction linings) always seperate upon removal.
Other than that you have a good engine to work with and i wish you many miles of good driving!!!
Paul
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