Discussion
Hi all. My first post on this forum so please be gentle.
My TVR Chimaera is due back from the spray shop on Friday. It's had a full respray in the original colour ( Antique Turquoise ( old Subaru colour I believe)) with some extra metal flake added to give it a zing, and I would welcome some advice on how to keep it looking good.
I "think" I understand the 2 bucket wash idea, but that is about as far as my car care knowledge goes.
Perhaps someone with more knowledge than me can suggest a suitable routine and some products that will keep my car looking good, but without being fanatical about it.
It is my only car and used all year round. Its kept outside in a communal (secure) car park where there is no access to running water or power.
Many thanks in advance. Stuart.
My TVR Chimaera is due back from the spray shop on Friday. It's had a full respray in the original colour ( Antique Turquoise ( old Subaru colour I believe)) with some extra metal flake added to give it a zing, and I would welcome some advice on how to keep it looking good.
I "think" I understand the 2 bucket wash idea, but that is about as far as my car care knowledge goes.
Perhaps someone with more knowledge than me can suggest a suitable routine and some products that will keep my car looking good, but without being fanatical about it.
It is my only car and used all year round. Its kept outside in a communal (secure) car park where there is no access to running water or power.
Many thanks in advance. Stuart.
Stu, it is a simple case of this basic process:
- Wash/cleansing
- Claying (deeper paint decontamination)
- Polishing (creates shine)
- Protection (via wax or sealant)
You don't need running water or electric, but it helps, mainly at the wash stage. Machine polishing also needs electricity, but you can hand polish until then.
There are some good basic guides dotted around, but all revolve around the processes above. Maybe surf Detailing World for a few hours as you can learn the basic theory quite quickly from the guides.
- Wash/cleansing
- Claying (deeper paint decontamination)
- Polishing (creates shine)
- Protection (via wax or sealant)
You don't need running water or electric, but it helps, mainly at the wash stage. Machine polishing also needs electricity, but you can hand polish until then.
There are some good basic guides dotted around, but all revolve around the processes above. Maybe surf Detailing World for a few hours as you can learn the basic theory quite quickly from the guides.
Thanks Dom. I have had a good rummage around here and seen some amazing results. Everyone speaks very highly of Dodo Juice so perhaps I'll try to get a simple stock for the processes you suggest.
ETA....Some advice on which Dodo product for each stage is most suitable for new paint would be very helpful. Would I need to clay bar new paint?
ETA....Some advice on which Dodo product for each stage is most suitable for new paint would be very helpful. Would I need to clay bar new paint?
Edited by s5tuart on Wednesday 14th April 02:28
PJ S said:
If the painter's done a poor prep, leaving dirt/dust nibs in the clearcoat.
Alternatively, if it's sat around/under trees - sap - or other industrial fallout in the area, commonly railway lines nearby.
Hi all lol so can you de nib paint work with a clar bar? im with Tallpaul as hes big.but really you dont wnnna start doing anything like that to your new paint work on your TVR as its air dryed not oven baked.Alternatively, if it's sat around/under trees - sap - or other industrial fallout in the area, commonly railway lines nearby.
Hmm. I've not done a controlled experiment, but my instinct is that contaminants *in* the clearcoat layer will require more to remove them than claying. And even if they were gently enough embedded for clay to pull them out, the pit they would leave would need an element of flatting.
I'm always open to new approaches, but I can't think of a superior way to improve new paint then wet-flatting (or, on *completely* dry new paint, a DA in professional hands) and polishing...
Tol
I'm always open to new approaches, but I can't think of a superior way to improve new paint then wet-flatting (or, on *completely* dry new paint, a DA in professional hands) and polishing...
Tol
Hi all and thanks for the advice. The car was indeed air dried, but the paint looks and feels fine to my untrained senses. (There speaks a man who USED to throw the remains of the wash water over his car (not the TVR!) until he found this forum 
)
Should I leave the paint to harden off any more before I get at it with Dodo Juice?
)Should I leave the paint to harden off any more before I get at it with Dodo Juice?
Personally, I would suggest seeking advice from whoever painted the car- if you have any problems they may well say you didnt follow their advised aftercare and void any warranty. I would allow it a couple of weeks then treat it as you would any other paint finish... Wash from the top to bottom with a proper car shampoo and running water (not washing-up liquid!) then apply the wax/sealant of your choice regularly.
It's considered advisable to leave new paint (moreso air dried) for a period of 2-3 months before using anything to protect it.
This allows the off-gassing that's still ongoing to finish, leaving the paint at its end-state hardness level, otherwise you slow the process, and leave the paint softer, which is easier to mark.
Keep on top of the cleaning during this period - don't let it build up before you tackle it.
I'd suggest a good benign all purpose cleaner like Bilt Hamber Surfex HD, through a manual pressurised sprayer (garden type), at 10-20% concentration.
Spray that on, leave it 2-3 mins to work (maybe a double hit with 2 mins if sunny/warm and no shade), then rinse off with a pressure washer on a medium wide fan, and about 6" from the panels, at 45º (not hypercritical).
Don't scrimp on the rinsing.
That should give you almost a touchless wash if you want to leave it at that - sheet the water off with the open hose to leave less to mop up.
Lay a large microfiber towel over the panels, and pat gently to absorb the residual water.
Give it a full wash with shampoo and hairy wash mitt - Dodo have some, as does Ben at www.carnaubawaxshop.co.uk, along with the Surfex HD.
This allows the off-gassing that's still ongoing to finish, leaving the paint at its end-state hardness level, otherwise you slow the process, and leave the paint softer, which is easier to mark.
Keep on top of the cleaning during this period - don't let it build up before you tackle it.
I'd suggest a good benign all purpose cleaner like Bilt Hamber Surfex HD, through a manual pressurised sprayer (garden type), at 10-20% concentration.
Spray that on, leave it 2-3 mins to work (maybe a double hit with 2 mins if sunny/warm and no shade), then rinse off with a pressure washer on a medium wide fan, and about 6" from the panels, at 45º (not hypercritical).
Don't scrimp on the rinsing.
That should give you almost a touchless wash if you want to leave it at that - sheet the water off with the open hose to leave less to mop up.
Lay a large microfiber towel over the panels, and pat gently to absorb the residual water.
Give it a full wash with shampoo and hairy wash mitt - Dodo have some, as does Ben at www.carnaubawaxshop.co.uk, along with the Surfex HD.
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