Oil temp light and engine won't run Kawa 1100 Clubsport

[David Thompson]

It may be coincidental, but the oil temp light comes on when the ignition is switched on showing 149 degrees - clearly a fault with the sender as the oil is stone cold, but the engine has decided to cut out after about 15/30 secs from start.

Are these two things related?

If not, what could it be? there is fuel, the fuel pump works OK, I've changed the plugs, there is electric.

Anyone know what the oil temp sender is so I can order one?

It's driving me nuts.

Thanks in advance for any help

DAvid

[splitpin]

Sounds like fuel to me. If on carbs, float bowls and slides clean, main jets and needles all in fine fettle?

Before the blokes in the white coats get a call, any ROC Member down Hampshire way who could pop over and have a look see?

[jp-speed-triple]

you sure the fuel pump is delivering at decent volume/pressure?

[SportsLibre]

The oil temp light and read is telling you the wire has fallen off the sensor (or it is broken).
The manual tells you that.
Wouldn't expect it to be related to the running problems?

[Martin B]

Is it dry sump or wet sump engine?

My dry sump one has an extention wire from the main loom near the neutral switch to the temp sensor on the dry sump tank, is that connector/lead ok?

As for stopping after 15/30 seconds don't know.

[Simon T]

David, YHM

Simon

[David Thompson]

The pump seems fine, as it will empty the tank OK through the sample "T", and ticks away when I switch on - don't know how to test it any other way, but my gut feel it is somehow related to fuel. I guess the pump could be delivering enough to start the engine when the ignition is switched on then not automatically pumping. Any idea where the fuel pump is?
It is dry sumped, and the oil temp sensor in the base of the tank is connected OK so I think the sensor has died and needs replacing.

[BertBert]

I have very detailed knowledge of the fuel pump location. It is on the LHS of the tank behind an oval inspection cover.

I'd definitely change it!

Bert

[David Thompson]

Thanks for all these replies, there is a very steep learning curve attached to buying a second hand Clubsport!

I'll take your advice Bert Bert and change the pump, although I had thought that it would either work or not. Have others experienced intermittent faults or falling off of efficiency?

David

[splitpin]

BertBert said:

I have very detailed knowledge of the fuel pump location. Bert

And Very Recent

[ScottHughes]

If the engine cut's out after 15 or 30 seconds from cold start just go through the same start up procedure and try again, mine would sometime's need to do this 4 or 5 time's from cold due to lack of choke on flat slide carbs.

Correct start procedure 3 pumps of throttle push start button, then don't give to much throttle or it will stall..

[superlight7]

When buying my ClubSport (with slide carbs) I was told to give it two throttle pumps before starting - everytime I did that it was a pig to start....so now even from cold I start with NO Throttle Pumps she fires first time and slowly comes to life...oil pressure slowly building whilst I carefully cover the throttle pedal to keep her alive for the first minute of so.

I guess what I am saying is treat these Clubsports like a woman - they all have a different way to bring them to life - be gentle at first but then be ready to be blown away once they are warm....

[David Thompson]

Superlight, when I bought this I was told to stay away from the throttle whilst starting, and I did this, starting it from outside the car to avoid temptation - just as I do with my R400 - and it always started, with hesitation but OK.
At Castle Combe in March it ran so badly (on the first lap!!) with the engine cutting out as soon as it was given any load. I discovered that the battery was down to 10.7v which I assume was insufficient to drive the ECU. The alternator fuse had blown, so I replaced this and fitted a new battery. Since then, with fully charged battery, it will only run for a few seconds before stopping. In the middle of all this the oil temp sender failed - still to replace - so I wondered, have I upset the ECU somehow by changing the battery or trying to drive the car with the battery flat, or might the ECU recognise the oil temp reading is 149deg ddue to failed sender?
The fuel system is OK, there is plenty of spark, the plugs are clean, it just won't run. I've tried opening the throttle a couple of times to "choke" it, but it doesn't help. I've rigged a gravity tank to by-pass the pump. I've opened up the fuel inlet so there is no vacuum in the tank. I've given it fresh plugs, I've cleaned the fuel filter, I've pumped out 20 litres with the electric pump.
Unless there is an ECU issue, I am left with changing the sender, and replacing the fuel with fresh. After that I will have to give up and get someone more experienced to look at it. Anyone with other suggestions?

David

[Martin B]

What condition are the carbs/float bowls in?

I'm pretty sure a carb problem caused my holed piston (twice on the same cylinder) on my Clubsport last year.

[mabbott]

Hi David - who's car do you now have?