Ouch ... outrigger shot .. some guidance please
Ouch ... outrigger shot .. some guidance please
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duncscz

Original Poster:

262 posts

281 months

Sunday 18th April 2010
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Well .. just when I thought the car was sorted, I decided to check the front pads and at the same time, poke my nose along ths front o/s outrigger. Wish I hadn't eek (though, from a safety persepctive, glad I did). It was on my list to clean/paint next winter ... but it's more urgent than I expected frown

Hard to imagine how the car passed it's MOT last summer !!!

Here's the back end (probably OK with some TLC) :



And the centre :



And then the problem :



As I'm fairly new to Wedges and no expert when it comes to welding, can I at least assume it's a problem which can be 'easily' (ie. not too expensive) solved ?

Is it possible to get the chassis/body plate or is that something I'll need to get made ?

I assume the front-back length of the outrigger (tube) is important ? .... but as mine has broken completely, how can I now reference the overall length ?

Apart from supporting the body, what other function(s) does the outrigger perform ?

Any 'experts' in the Dorset area who could take a look (for the usual beverages wink

Nearside to wrestle off tomorrow ... not looking forward to that !

TIA ...

adam quantrill

11,679 posts

272 months

Sunday 18th April 2010
quotequote all
Don't worry too much - the outrigger mainly gives a bit of strength to the tubes running to it - so you'll find the car seems a more comfortable ride because the tube under your bum flaps around a bit more.

I have seen far worse that those - my first car just had a bunch of rust under the sill covers when I removed them when it was dismantled ;^) At least you have removable sill covers my latest car is an SE and it's body-off to get at this stuff.

It's just a matter of getting some new tube and a couple of plates and welding it up, it won't cost much.

mrcrappy

166 posts

313 months

duncscz

Original Poster:

262 posts

281 months

Monday 19th April 2010
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Brilliant ... thanks guys thumbup

Wedg1e

27,040 posts

295 months

Monday 19th April 2010
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duncscz

Original Poster:

262 posts

281 months

Monday 19th April 2010
quotequote all
Thanks ... seems easy enough ... if only I'd paid more attention in metalwork class and kept up my welding skills !!

Also, been thinking about how to refix the sill in such a way that it would be easier to remove next time. Mine was held in place with various pop rivets (including where the capitve bolts should have been) and liberal TVR mastic. Need to get my head inside the footwell to get some ideas of what's best. It must be possible to make more of a 'quick-release' system. I wonder what the race-versions use ?

duncscz

Original Poster:

262 posts

281 months

Monday 19th April 2010
quotequote all
[quote=Wedg1e]Here's one I repaired earlier... whistle

You don't, by chance, fancy repairing another one ? wink

mrcrappy

166 posts

313 months

Monday 19th April 2010
quotequote all
I attached my sil with pop rivets and black silicon sealant, fairly eas to remove with a small drill and a knife blade, may be worth trying some dzus clip things as used for racing panels. hopefully you wont need to take it off again, but dont use hammerite its crap for chassis's, mine needed repaint after six months, now ive got the body off......
Jon

Wedg1e

27,040 posts

295 months

Tuesday 20th April 2010
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duncscz said:
Wedg1e said:
Here's one I repaired earlier... whistle

You don't, by chance, fancy repairing another one ? wink
Not unless you fancy moving about 250 miles closer biggrin

As I recall, materials cost for that white one was about £50... but I had trouble finding 2mm wall tube at the time, despite having a glut of steel mills on the doorstep rolleyes The car belonged to Tony M (Uriel on PH); I think it went to Germany after he sold it. I recall that when it went for its MOT, Tony returned to find the tester had jacked the car up... by the outriggers eek

ed_crouch

1,169 posts

272 months

Tuesday 20th April 2010
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Fish-mouthing the ends of the transverse tubes and welding upside down are the challenges here, but it can be done.

Also worth having a fire extinguisher on hand and shield the bodywork from spatter. I never had any problems, and please dont let this scare you off, but its better to be safe - weld spatter can go a long way and if MIGing it you only have to happen upon a small patch of crap for the welder to spit.

Oh and while youre at it its an amazingly good idea to replace the fuel injection hose that runs along the sill. The pressure pipe is copper and that'll do unless its coroded badly or damaged, but I would DEFINITELY replace the return hose. You want Gates multifuel hose, about a fiver a metre and its good for 1MPa (148PSI - a good hundred PSI to spare!).

Edited by ed_crouch on Tuesday 20th April 21:37

adam quantrill

11,679 posts

272 months

Tuesday 20th April 2010
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A sheet of thin aly makes an excellent shield, with no danger of welding to it. As for the extinguisher yes have a proper one on hand but I find one of the boys pump-up water pistols is great for putting out minor fires!