M handbrake. Whats the method?

[RobStan]

Hi all.

Hope you're all enjoying the spell of amazing weather! I am however my MOT is due this week and my handbrake is a little slack. I normally tighten it up and it's fine however this year I can't seem to get it to a point I'm happy with.

Before I go changing the cable etc is there a tried and tested method of what order to tighten/loosen things in to get the best out of it?

Cheers
Rob

[Cerberus90]

Someone asked this not long ago, probably only a few pages back.

Adrian had a very comprehensive answer for setting it up.

• EDIT*

Here it is, only on page 2

Clicky

Edited by Cerberus90 on Monday 19th April 17:27

Edited by Cerberus90 on Monday 19th April 17:28

[youngnick]

Hi Rob

If you have the 15inch wheels on your 1600m, as they appear on your profile, it is possible to cut and lengthen by 10mm the lever which passes through the brake assembly at the rear of the car.

This will improve leverage considerably as I have discovered on my 3000m

Alan

[tegwin]

Mine only just passed again following Adrians advice...

Damn terrible handbrake... I still cant get it right!

[Adrian@]

Something to try..on a slight hill, IF you allow the car to roll back and brake, when you go forward again is the pedal different on that first press from the normal travel (what this would tell me is that the rear shoes are incorrectly adjusted and the shoes are rotating and need adjusting) I have to say that in my dim distance past I have bolted shoes to the back plate with all the adjusters set up over size and machined the shoes to suit the ID of the drum, but that is extreme and I have never had a car fail an MOT on the handbrake once the clevis pin version of the cable support has been got rid of...and I have the longer version of the lever arm on the shelf as these are standard fitting on Swiss cars, which are using the 14 inch rim, it is close and you cannot have balance weights in the way.
Adrian@

Edited by Adrian@ on Tuesday 20th April 00:11

[RobStan]

Nice one chaps!

Passed MOT with only one Advisory "Horn sounds of its own accord"! Why does it only ever develop new problems when someone else touches it!?!?!

Rob

[Adrian@]

The limit stop which limits the up and down oscillation of the 2 steering UJ's is on the middle shaft and the ring should abut the bronze bush in the chassis, once this set the clamp above you knees needs setting and to do this you should release the 11/16 headed lock nut and undo the grub screw (this allows the internal shaft to slide in and out) then ensure that the best position of the steering wheel boss and the wiring to the horn press slip ring is achieved (so that these do not earth out when not required to do so)before locking the grub screw and then the lock nut...a note here is that to still have your indicators working the clamp should be facing directly down so that the tang, which can be fitted either correctly or 180 degrees out can can be set up.
Adrian@