What size tube ?
Discussion
Hello, I normally post over on the Porsche part but have a problem someone here might be able to sort. We go to France four times a year where we use some MTBs at the house where we stay. One had a flat and when I removed the tyre from the rim the tube had a big hole. The tyre was 1.95 x 26" but the tube was 23". Aldi had a sale with 2 tubes for €2.50 so I bought a 26" and a 24" , they did not have 23". The 26" tube was floppy on the rim, ie it was too big . Why is this, do you not use 26" tubes on 26" wheels . The 24" tube was a nice tight fit but I could not get the tyre to go on as the tube was taking up the rim sides. I might add that while the rims are 26", up close I see they are marked 26 extern, 22 intern. I'm puzzled ! Sorry if I'm asking something silly.
Also, my home bike is a Carrera Kraken with 26" tyres. I 've kept the fat tyres thinking that with my fat ar5e I'd spread the load better, but a thread here says go narrower, like 1.75. I use my bike for 95% road use, Irish pot holes and bumpy tar. I see discussion re using non knobblies, ie slicks , but forgive the stupidy of my question but do I not need good thread when it rains !
Also, my home bike is a Carrera Kraken with 26" tyres. I 've kept the fat tyres thinking that with my fat ar5e I'd spread the load better, but a thread here says go narrower, like 1.75. I use my bike for 95% road use, Irish pot holes and bumpy tar. I see discussion re using non knobblies, ie slicks , but forgive the stupidy of my question but do I not need good thread when it rains !
Actually slicks are safer in the wet than knobblies.
The high pressure narrow slicks and small cross section cut through the water on a slick tire. In car tires the relative low pressure and wide cross section give aqua-planing issues.
The slick tire also has a much wider contact surface area than a knobbly on a flat road
The rounder shoulders of a slick tire maintain a similar contact patch when leaning for a corner in the wet making cornering safer than a knobbly.
The high pressure narrow slicks and small cross section cut through the water on a slick tire. In car tires the relative low pressure and wide cross section give aqua-planing issues.
The slick tire also has a much wider contact surface area than a knobbly on a flat road
The rounder shoulders of a slick tire maintain a similar contact patch when leaning for a corner in the wet making cornering safer than a knobbly.
Edited by anonymous-user on Tuesday 20th April 11:39
OneDs said:
Actually slicks are safer in the wet than knobblies.
The high pressure narrow slicks and small cross section cut through the water on a slick tire. In car tires the relative low pressure and wide cross section give aqua-planing issues.
The slick tire also has a much wider contact surface area than a knobbly on a flat road
The rounder shoulders of a slick tire maintain a similar contact patch when leaning for a corner in the wet making cornering safer than a knobbly.
^ This! The high pressure narrow slicks and small cross section cut through the water on a slick tire. In car tires the relative low pressure and wide cross section give aqua-planing issues.
The slick tire also has a much wider contact surface area than a knobbly on a flat road
The rounder shoulders of a slick tire maintain a similar contact patch when leaning for a corner in the wet making cornering safer than a knobbly.
majordad said:
The tyre was 1.95 x 26" but the tube was 23". Aldi had a sale with 2 tubes for €2.50 so I bought a 26" and a 24" , they did not have 23". The 26" tube was floppy on the rim, ie it was too big . Why is this, do you not use 26" tubes on 26" wheels . The 24" tube was a nice tight fit but I could not get the tyre to go on as the tube was taking up the rim sides. I might add that while the rims are 26"
Tubes don't fit snug to the wheel rim; they support the inside of the tyre's carcass. Stretching a 24" tube onto a 26" wheel will result in much pain!Fit one bead of the tyre to the rim & then feed in the tube. A little air in the tube will give it some shape and keep it out of the way of the rim as you re-seat the other tyre bead. Once fitted with no bits of tube pinched between the rim and tyre, you then inflate to the desired pressure.
Note also that tubes come in width ranges, so for your 1.95 tyre you want one where the range encompasses this value (e.g 1.8-2.2 or similar); it's no use fitting a super-wide DH tube to a skinny slick or vice versa, despite them both being 26" diameter.
Thanks again for the ideas. I might add, that my own bike, the Kraken came on 2.1 tyres. Are you saying with my high road use then I should go narrower and slicks. Suggest a brand and size please. At 55 I'm discovering bikes, after giving up 42 yrs ago when I lost my front tooth to the handlebars .
Slicks are far better on the road; more grip & faster rolling.
If the roads are bad, don't go too narrow though, as they'll be uncomfortable over the potholes.
Personally, I use 2.1 slicks on an old mountain bike for commuting (even though 1.5s would be faster) just for the extra comfort / protection against cr4p road surfaces.
If the roads are bad, don't go too narrow though, as they'll be uncomfortable over the potholes.
Personally, I use 2.1 slicks on an old mountain bike for commuting (even though 1.5s would be faster) just for the extra comfort / protection against cr4p road surfaces.
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