Protech setting guideline.
Discussion
Hi, sorry, second question in a day.
Sorted the ride height (was way off on one corner), but want to get a the shocks at least to a baseline setting to play with, so... does anyone have a guide for number of clicks for Protechs (fitted in 2007 I believe). When I checked them they were all at different settings.
Thanks
Matt
Sorted the ride height (was way off on one corner), but want to get a the shocks at least to a baseline setting to play with, so... does anyone have a guide for number of clicks for Protechs (fitted in 2007 I believe). When I checked them they were all at different settings.
Thanks
Matt
I run them 10 at the front at 8 at the rear when we are all 4 in with a few bits in the boot.
But its too much on the lumpy North Yorks roads if its just me in the car
And it also depends on the spring rates you have fitted. Joo created me a set with custom valving and spring rates to suit touring with the family.
The springs are too soft for serious track day work and on long fast corners will gradually compress.
If you are going to tweak then work out a nice set of raods to test on.
I fiddled about for weeks with no real plan as to what I was doing nor any way to 'measure' effect.
Having put some thought into it I now drive a 35 minute route including a whole range of corners with varying surfaces and cambers to experiment with the settings. And some nice straights to give it some beans
Make sure all the adjusters have 13 clicks. They can get sludge in them and the click can't be felt or they won't go all the way to the exteremes of adjustment.
And do make sure your brain has got clockwise and anticlockwise sorted when you are laid by the car with one arm threaded through the suspension trying to turn the adjusters. I had a memorable test drive with the rears set to 3 rather than 10 and the wheel hop in rough corners was frightening.
But its too much on the lumpy North Yorks roads if its just me in the car
And it also depends on the spring rates you have fitted. Joo created me a set with custom valving and spring rates to suit touring with the family.
The springs are too soft for serious track day work and on long fast corners will gradually compress.
If you are going to tweak then work out a nice set of raods to test on.
I fiddled about for weeks with no real plan as to what I was doing nor any way to 'measure' effect.
Having put some thought into it I now drive a 35 minute route including a whole range of corners with varying surfaces and cambers to experiment with the settings. And some nice straights to give it some beans
Make sure all the adjusters have 13 clicks. They can get sludge in them and the click can't be felt or they won't go all the way to the exteremes of adjustment.
And do make sure your brain has got clockwise and anticlockwise sorted when you are laid by the car with one arm threaded through the suspension trying to turn the adjusters. I had a memorable test drive with the rears set to 3 rather than 10 and the wheel hop in rough corners was frightening.
I read a generic guide to setting up dampers the other day. I said to set them to full soft, go out for a drive, then set to full hard them go for a drive. This will show you the extremes of the settings. Then set them mid way, and go for a drive. Decide whether you want them harder or softer than this, and go to the halfway setting between what you have now, and the last extreme. Just keep going for a drive, and deciding whether you want them harder or softer and adjust accordingly.
In the end it all depends on personal preference and what sort of roads you have to drive/put up with.
In the end it all depends on personal preference and what sort of roads you have to drive/put up with.
Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff