Essex V6 rebuild - hints & tips please

[mgaut]

All

I've ventured into the unknown and bought a 57,000 mile 3.0 V6 for the pricely sum of £80. Never done any engine work before, so all new territory for me !

Taking some advice and guidance from a colleague, it's all stripped and labelled, and the crank/pulley/clutch housing are off for balancing, and the pistons and conrods will get the same treatment.

Existing pistons and bores look (and feel) very fresh, so planning to reuse them with new rings.

Due to lack of time it will be a few weeks before the block is cleaned and painted, then its crank back in and new cam/followers and new oil seals and gasket set at the ready.

Top end will probably be some exchange heads with larger inlet valves, and double 38 DGAS carbs.

If anyone can offer and advice and guidance on what to do or avoid when putting an engine back together again, that would be most appreciated; I only have a Haynes manual for reference. Aiming for a quicker road car, not a racer, hence not going mad on porting and triple webers etc (unless I'm persuaded to the contrary).

.. and in no particular rush to get it in the car, as this was supposed to be my project for NEXT winter !

cheers

Mike

[heightswitch]

mgaut said:

All

I've ventured into the unknown and bought a 57,000 mile 3.0 V6 for the pricely sum of £80. Never done any engine work before, so all new territory for me !

Taking some advice and guidance from a colleague, it's all stripped and labelled, and the crank/pulley/clutch housing are off for balancing, and the pistons and conrods will get the same treatment.

Existing pistons and bores look (and feel) very fresh, so planning to reuse them with new rings.

Due to lack of time it will be a few weeks before the block is cleaned and painted, then its crank back in and new cam/followers and new oil seals and gasket set at the ready.

Top end will probably be some exchange heads with larger inlet valves, and double 38 DGAS carbs.

If anyone can offer and advice and guidance on what to do or avoid when putting an engine back together again, that would be most appreciated; I only have a Haynes manual for reference. Aiming for a quicker road car, not a racer, hence not going mad on porting and triple webers etc (unless I'm persuaded to the contrary).

.. and in no particular rush to get it in the car, as this was supposed to be my project for NEXT winter !

cheers

Mike

Have you measured anything??
N

[mgaut]

heightswitch said:

Have you measured anything??
N

only the inlet valve size. What else do I need to measure ??

[bob1179]

I'm going from memory here, but didn't the Essex V6 have nylon timing gears?

From what I remember these have a habit of failing and it makes sense to replace them with after market steel gears. I think Burton make them, but it's been a while since I read up on the old Essex V6.

[mgaut]

thanks Bob; it's already had metal rather than fibre timing gear fitted, so that's saved me £180 (or given me another £180 to spend !!)

Mike

[heightswitch]

Wear?

[jagracer]

mgaut said:

heightswitch said:

Have you measured anything??
N

only the inlet valve size. What else do I need to measure ??

Cylinder bores, pistons, crank journals, valve stems and guides, oil pump, do you want more?

[barrington]

i have a new set of ARP conrod bolts in the draw make me an offer if you fancy them and give me an email

[Jasper Gilder]

Have the valve seats been hardened for unleaded? If not it's a good idea to get it done if you don't want to be putting substances in your tank for ever