Handbrake problem

[nwarner]

Hi

My 390 failed the MOT in January with an in-operative handbrake on the drivers side and very rusty rear discs. I replaced the discs and found the reason for the handbrake problem was that one of the handbrake pads had parted company with the metal backing plate. I overhauled the rear brakes, fitted new handbrake pads but ended up taking off the sills and repainting the rear chassis etc. so it has taken me a while.

I've just got back from the MOT and it's failed on the handbrake again. This time it failed because they are only 30% of what they should be to pass but equal on both sides. I adjusted them by pulling
the actuator lever back towards the wheel arch and then screwed the adjuster in until it was tight. I then backed off 1/2 a turn. Is this correct or is there something I have missed. Also the handbrake adjuster is now at it's limit but there was an inch of thread left before I took it apart. I can't see that it would have stretched that much since it's previous MOT the year before.

Also there's more travel in the brake pedal than before. I've pressure bled the brakes quite a few times and there's no air coming out and the pedal isn't spongy. When I pump the brake pedal it doesn't get higher so I don't think air is the problem. Any ideas ?

Nige

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

You should not have touched the adjuster on the cable, just use the screw on, you did that part correct, but you may not be getting enough travel on the cable. try putting the cable back, and re-adjust via the screws.
also due to new pads and disc's they may need a little bedding in. but sounds like MOT guy is being a bit of a jobs worth.

[adam quantrill]

I agree - in case you missed them, there is a screw on each caliper held in place with a small split pin. Jack it up and the wheels drop down for easy access. You may find that you have to put the cable adjuster back where it started - this is only really for adjusting for stretch in the cable, not the handbrake pads.

Drive about with it and use the handbrake while moving a few times, to bed in the new pads, then adjust it again just before taking it back.

[Wedg1e]

I think I have this prat-on every year... adjust everything until the brakes will pass (say 4 or 5 clicks travel) then by the end of the month the handbrake is touching the roof (or it would be if I put the roof on ).

[350zwelgje]

Similar experience here after same jobs done on the rear brakes (+ new calipers as well), probably due to the horror stories of the handbrake pads being too close to the disks didn't set them tight enough....
Handbrake before worked ok as in normal for a non-TVR, and now will need to 'tighten' the handbrake pads after everything is run in. Still need to do this, but as mentioned before it needs the adjustment at the pads after the splitpin is removed.
Otherwise looking for the expert advice on here to learn more ;-)

Rob

[leorest]

Adjust it up a bit on the tight side to get it through the MOT then back it off so it doesn't seize on. It should have bedded in properly for next years test.
Next year try and find a test station where they understand what can realisticly be expected from the handbrake.

[adam quantrill]

Actually the handbrake is quite good _if_ the self-adjusting mechanism is working (it's a ratchet inside each caliper). The trouble is by now most of the cars have siezed-up innards in the caliper so you have to do it manually instead.

The 400SX still has a working mechanism - I haven't had to adjust it yet in almost 4 years ;^)

[combine]

Yep , had Mot failure with handbrake , not suprising as the jag setup is not the best for holding the car still on any gradient . Has anyone done a refurb and found the handbrake any better than before ?

[nwarner]

combine said:

Yep , had Mot failure with handbrake , not suprising as the jag setup is not the best for holding the car still on any gradient . Has anyone done a refurb and found the handbrake any better than before ?

I refurbed mine (your old 390) after the 1st MOT failure in January (due to a pad coming off the metal backing & rusty rear discs). I replaced the rear discs, overhauled the brake calipers and the handbrake calipers. I made sure the ratchet mechanism was working OK. I'll try the advice of driving about with the handbrake on to bed them in and then adjust them so they're a bit tight as suggested.

Thanks

[jeff m]

nwarner said:

Hi



I've just got back from the MOT and it's failed on the handbrake again. This time it failed because they are only 30% of what they should be to pass but equal on both sides. I adjusted them by pulling
the actuator lever back towards the wheel arch and then screwed the adjuster in until it was tight. I then backed off 1/2 a turn. Is this correct or is there something I have missed. Also the handbrake adjuster is now at it's limit but there was an inch of thread left before I took it apart. I can't see that it would have stretched that much since it's previous MOT the year before.



Nige

It sounds as thought the outer of the cable has shifted in the tunnel (rear of the centre arm rest)
It's a real meaty cable, pretty unstrechable

I got my handbrake working by cleaning the mechanisms, then screwing out the adjustment screws, moving the two arms in and out by hand to get the pawls working. Then attatch cable making sure it is in its notch in the tunnel. Then screw back in the adj. screws till they bite. Operate and release handbrake a few times, then readjust screws again. Mine has stayed functional.

[nwarner]

I've found the problem after taking of the handbrake calipers. The new handbrake pads were only touching the disc at the very top edge about 3mm wide so obviously not having much effect. When I took the old handbrake shoes off they were worn at an angle but I didn't take much notice. The new ones are completely flat of course so need a lot of bedding in. I've filed them at an angle and then refitted them. The handbrake now seems a lot better. Fingers crossed it will now pass the MOT.

Nige

[blaineuk]

the place i use usually lets me sit in the car during the mot, so on the rollers i "assist" the hand brake with the foot brake.;);)