Suspension geo does this look OK
Discussion
I had my car in for the geo setup a couple of weeks ago (very highly rated TVR specialist). I must say I have not noticed anything wrong but tonight I took of one of the back wheels to adjust the handbrake and noticed that the top wishbone was set at its outermost travel Odd I thought so took the other wheel off to see if this was the same but NO this is about mid travel. Hard to explain so I have put some pictures up. I don't want to bother the specialist if this is the norm so thought I would ask advice here first. Just seems strange that they could be so different.
Pic of the O/S Rear
Pic os the N/S Rear
Chris
Pic of the O/S Rear
Pic os the N/S Rear
Chris
Edited by chris52 on Tuesday 4th May 22:47
From what I can tel by eye they look fine neither wheel looks out of place or significantly different to the other. It just seemed strange that they would be set in such differnt places on the wishbone. All nuts and bolts are nice and tight so I would be suprised if they had moved but anything is possible I suppose. I know the garage will be happy to have a look over the car but its a 60 mile journey each way but I could go the country way 
thanks for the input guys.
Was nice finaly meeting you at Chatsworth Quinny.
Chris
thanks for the input guys.
Was nice finaly meeting you at Chatsworth Quinny.
Chris
Quinny said:
I'd say thats moved....
How do the wheels look from behind??
They should lean in slightly at the top..
me2How do the wheels look from behind??
They should lean in slightly at the top..
an error in arm length , slot position would not be that great.
Its not usually the chassis that has big variation anyway, its normally the finbreglass tub.
And that don't matter
Andy
For an easy camber gauge get a bit of plywood that is about 6 inches wide and long enough to stretch across the wheel rim. Now draw a line down the centre and use a protractor to draw lines in say 0.2 degree steps. Now drill a hole at the top where all the lines meet and fix a bolt through it. On the bolt hang a length of straight rod, attach it so it is free to move. I used a crimp on ring terminal and a length of brass rod. Offer up the board to a vertical surface and the rod should hang in front of the centre line. Now offer it up against the wheel and read off the camber.
Having a completely level surface is essential. If not, measure, turn the car round, measure again and split the difference.
Having a completely level surface is essential. If not, measure, turn the car round, measure again and split the difference.
The protractor bit is a PITA Steve.
Much easier to just fix a cheap ruler at the perpendicular rather than fart about trying to draw accurate radials with a piddly little protractor IMHO.
Just make a line parallel between pivot & wheel and fix a rule at the perpendicular to read off the distance. Making the plumb length (& hence adjacent) as long as possible increases the accuracy, once you've made it the 'adjacent' length is fixed just plug it into tan=o/a and work out on your computer / calculator, it's no problem to work in the distance units when making adjustments as long as you keep a few notes of what the distance maps to in camber angles IYSWIM.
Much easier to just fix a cheap ruler at the perpendicular rather than fart about trying to draw accurate radials with a piddly little protractor IMHO.
Just make a line parallel between pivot & wheel and fix a rule at the perpendicular to read off the distance. Making the plumb length (& hence adjacent) as long as possible increases the accuracy, once you've made it the 'adjacent' length is fixed just plug it into tan=o/a and work out on your computer / calculator, it's no problem to work in the distance units when making adjustments as long as you keep a few notes of what the distance maps to in camber angles IYSWIM.
spend said:
The protractor bit is a PITA Steve.
Much easier to just fix a cheap ruler at the perpendicular rather than fart about trying to draw accurate radials with a piddly little protractor IMHO.
Just make a line parallel between pivot & wheel and fix a rule at the perpendicular to read off the distance. Making the plumb length (& hence adjacent) as long as possible increases the accuracy, once you've made it the 'adjacent' length is fixed just plug it into tan=o/a and work out on your computer / calculator, it's no problem to work in the distance units when making adjustments as long as you keep a few notes of what the distance maps to in camber angles IYSWIM.
Pfft, you're so old fashioned... iPhone + iHandy Level = job done Much easier to just fix a cheap ruler at the perpendicular rather than fart about trying to draw accurate radials with a piddly little protractor IMHO.
Just make a line parallel between pivot & wheel and fix a rule at the perpendicular to read off the distance. Making the plumb length (& hence adjacent) as long as possible increases the accuracy, once you've made it the 'adjacent' length is fixed just plug it into tan=o/a and work out on your computer / calculator, it's no problem to work in the distance units when making adjustments as long as you keep a few notes of what the distance maps to in camber angles IYSWIM.
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