Bare chassis treatment

[itsallyellow]

I have a bare chassis, what is the best thing to paint/treat it with? It won't be a road car but u still want it protected.

Thanks
mike

[itiejim]

When you say bare - is it just in unpainted metal? If so, I'd use POR-15 as it sticks particularly well and offers good protection. If it's already powder coated then you've got to ask how well it's been done...

[Chimpaholic]

If its bare steel I would get a body shop to:

1) Etch prime it

2) Smooth stone chip it (over paintable type)

3) Paint it in a 2k base cote of your colour choice

Job done.

[itsallyellow]

It is bare metal. Can POR-15 be painted on top of??

[FarmyardPants]

POR 15 needs an etching primer first, so it says on the tin.

[itiejim]

Yes, but they also do an etch primer - probably worth doing if you only want to do the job once!

[FarmyardPants]

Actually from reading about the etching primer, it seems that is used mostly as a prep for putting POR 15 onto existing paint.

You could try this stuff:

http://www.por15.com/METAL-READY/productinfo/MRG/

(or here if you're not American)

plenty more info on the website.

Did a bit of POR15ing on my chassis the other day and still have the black hands to prove it!

Edited by FarmyardPants on Wednesday 5th May 11:09

[schimg]

itiejim said:

When you say bare - is it just in unpainted metal? If so, I'd use POR-15 as it sticks particularly well and offers good protection. If it's already powder coated then you've got to ask how well it's been done...

Yep POR15 - with smooth hammerite over the top...that's what I have been mostly doing to my cerb..

I Had the cahssis hot zinc sprayed then I POR15'd it and finsihed off with hammerite when I had the body off my chimaera..

[itsallyellow]

Ok, where's the best place to get it from?

Thanks

[high52kojak]

ACT sell it I think

[Tanguero]

Frost are usually fairly reasonably priced particularly if you want any quantity.

[itiejim]

schimg said:

itiejim said:

When you say bare - is it just in unpainted metal? If so, I'd use POR-15 as it sticks particularly well and offers good protection. If it's already powder coated then you've got to ask how well it's been done...

Yep POR15 - with smooth hammerite over the top...that's what I have been mostly doing to my cerb..

I Had the cahssis hot zinc sprayed then I POR15'd it and finsihed off with hammerite when I had the body off my chimaera..

I'd definitely use POR over hammerite, it is much more resistant to chips

[FarmyardPants]

itiejim said:

schimg said:

itiejim said:

When you say bare - is it just in unpainted metal? If so, I'd use POR-15 as it sticks particularly well and offers good protection. If it's already powder coated then you've got to ask how well it's been done...

Yep POR15 - with smooth hammerite over the top...that's what I have been mostly doing to my cerb..

I Had the cahssis hot zinc sprayed then I POR15'd it and finsihed off with hammerite when I had the body off my chimaera..

I'd definitely use POR over hammerite, it is much more resistant to chips

When you say "over" do you mean "on top of" or "instead of"?
As schimg says, the POR-15 on the metal is the main defence, the hammerite (eg in white) is just the icing on the cake, so to speak.

[itiejim]

Over as in "in preference to" - I'm always amazed at how well POR-15 sticks and how resistant it is to chipping. I've just done my chassis and, where it's painted over metal it is basically indestructible. Unfortunately, I can't say the same about where it's painted over the original powder coating, hence my original question.

[Chimpaholic]

POR15 is definitely the stuff to use if you don't have access to professional body shop or industrial coating products.

For home use it just cant be beat.

We tested it for Frost back in the early 1990's when restoring a MK2 Zephyr for Practical Classics, and I was very impressed.

I renamed it POR B*STARD because if you get the stuff on your hands you will be with it for days if not weeks after.

Top tips are:

1) Wear gloves

2) Get a supply of cheapish brushes that don't lose their bristles (best to view each brush as a disposable item as cleaning it off is hell)

3) Do as much painting in one session as you can (the stuff sets in the tin no matter how well you try to re-seal the lid after you have opened it)

I experimented using the stuff over many surfaces (primed, etch primed & bare metal) to be honest it seemed to work so well on bare metal that I concluded its permanence was only impeded by a primer or undercoat.

Its superb stuff that can often out perform 2k without the risk of deadly isocyanates, just don't get it on your skin!

[dbv8]

[quote=itiejim]Unfortunately, I can't say the same about where it's painted over the original powder coating,quote]

Im glad i got my whole chassis shotblast rid of the crap stuff then.
Mines painted with 2 coats of POR15 base coat and 2 coats of Silvercoat

[julian64]

I'm allowed, (by my wife) to open my present tomorrow. Hopefully it will be a DIY powdercoating kit.

Now all I need is a really, really big oven.

[Chimpaholic]

dbv8 said:

itiejim said:

Unfortunately, I can't say the same about where it's painted over the original powder coating,quote]

Im glad i got my whole chassis shotblast rid of the crap stuff then.
Mines painted with 2 coats of POR15 base coat and 2 coats of Silvercoat

"2 coats of POR15 base coat and 2 coats of Silvercoat"

Talk about overkill, can you do mine too?

One day, in 300 years time, an archaeologist will dig up your car and say:

"Don't those TVR chassis last well"

Top job

[dbv8]

[Chimpaholic]

dbv8 said:

Chassis Porn