Disaster - Engine Seized?? - An Update
Discussion
Firstly gents, thanks for all of your interest, helpful advice and kind comments since the engine incident a couple of weeks ago. Here's the deal:
It seems in an incredible twist of bad luck, a cam bearing seized, taking out the cam, which rapidly put paid to the crank. Let's just say when the mechanic went in through the sump there were bits everywhere!
We therefore need a short engine.
I'd appreciate some input here, but my thoughts are - bite the bullet and pay RPI of Norwich £1500 for a rebuilt short engine with a fast road cam and whop that in.
The situation with SSCC is that we are going to split the cost of repairs, not sure what my percentage contribution will be yet, but full marks to them for not running away!
Any thoughts, comments, advice as always gratefully received ...
John.
It seems in an incredible twist of bad luck, a cam bearing seized, taking out the cam, which rapidly put paid to the crank. Let's just say when the mechanic went in through the sump there were bits everywhere!
We therefore need a short engine.
I'd appreciate some input here, but my thoughts are - bite the bullet and pay RPI of Norwich £1500 for a rebuilt short engine with a fast road cam and whop that in.
The situation with SSCC is that we are going to split the cost of repairs, not sure what my percentage contribution will be yet, but full marks to them for not running away!
Any thoughts, comments, advice as always gratefully received ...
John.
Hi John, in my view the dealer cannot run away and should meet the cost (or at least most of it). The car bought from a dealer should come with 3 months warranty. If a problem, try asking for a refund as the car is not fit for purpose and broke after less than a month. If they value their reputation they should make you a good offer as a car like yours will have carried a good mark-up.
Edited by red tasman on Wednesday 5th May 22:45
Looking at it from the perspecive of the dealer, to fulfil my obligations I would get a second hand block+crank and move everything over onto that. Cost about £300 plus labour.
So to answer your question, if you have the option of a brand new block and to contribute some moolah, how much are you willing to spend?
So to answer your question, if you have the option of a brand new block and to contribute some moolah, how much are you willing to spend?
Tas - The dealer is not running away - far from it. He is going to do the work (whatever path we agree to go down) and there will be a contribution from me. Obviously the numbers are up for discussion, depending what's done.
Stephen can you pm me the details of that engine? Mine is an 84 on a B series 1 and to be fair it is nigh on mint, which is why I am considering a properly rebuilt short end, to keep it as an almost perfect example of a series 1
Adam - I'm keeping the financials under my hat until negotiations are complete!!! I don't want to show my hand yet offering 2k when the dealer was only ever going to ask me for 50 quid for his favourite charity
Thanks again for the input - much appreciated.
Stephen can you pm me the details of that engine? Mine is an 84 on a B series 1 and to be fair it is nigh on mint, which is why I am considering a properly rebuilt short end, to keep it as an almost perfect example of a series 1
Adam - I'm keeping the financials under my hat until negotiations are complete!!! I don't want to show my hand yet offering 2k when the dealer was only ever going to ask me for 50 quid for his favourite charity
Thanks again for the input - much appreciated.
I have an engine, (the one Hotty is talking about) It has done 98K miles from a 1989 350i. Engine runs fine and has only done 2k miles since having new top end gaskets inc heads. I will be removing it from the car over the next few days. Let me know if you are interested. Cheers Shaun
Hmmm, this sounds like an opportunity to go serpentine and get a MUCH better oil pump. You'd need a serpentine crank and front cover. I think the block is the same as pre-serp. Of course, if you bought a late block (OK, so that would entail a special build) I think it'd have knock sensor bosses on it so you could go full digital engine management later if you wanted to.
None of this is necessary, but there are certain ways you can play it that might make cool upgrades possible later.
Oh yeah, and if you get a serpentine setup it means you dont have the cacky distributor floppy-ended oil pump drive, which is also pants.
None of this is necessary, but there are certain ways you can play it that might make cool upgrades possible later.
Oh yeah, and if you get a serpentine setup it means you dont have the cacky distributor floppy-ended oil pump drive, which is also pants.
Ed mate, most of what you said might just as well have been in Spainish for all the sense it made to me! I guess the end result would be bloody fast! But would the series 1 chassis cope with it?
I tend to agree with the rev, might make sense to simply change the engine like for like, sell the car then buy a nut job 450?
I really wanted to keep the car as a 350i with a 3.5 lump just to keep things original and "as was"
I tend to agree with the rev, might make sense to simply change the engine like for like, sell the car then buy a nut job 450?
I really wanted to keep the car as a 350i with a 3.5 lump just to keep things original and "as was"
Pilo-Wedgebits said:
I have an engine, (the one Hotty is talking about) It has done 98K miles from a 1989 350i. Engine runs fine and has only done 2k miles since having new top end gaskets inc heads. I will be removing it from the car over the next few days. Let me know if you are interested. Cheers Shaun
I bought my 390 with 96K on it and when I stripped the engine at 102K, there was negligible bore wear. OK, so two pistons had broken rings and some of the big-ends were a bit coppery 
but it still ran 'OK' - well, I didn't have anything to compare it with.Done 116K now and still fine.
Obviously depends on money but I can certainly recommend RPI.
Not sure though whether they can do a new short engine of 3.5 capacity, guess it's only the crank that's different though but I reckon the standard 3.5 heads would choke any advantage you may get from going to 4.0 or above.
Also I think 3.5 blocks suitable for reconditioning (at least to their standard and guarantee requirements) are in short supply but give them a call to discuss options.
If you want to keep it as original as possible then that's probably the cheapest route anyway, 3.5 block and recondition what needs doing.
Wouldn't you need a long engine though, I assume from what occurred your original heads are no longer usable without repair ?
Not sure though whether they can do a new short engine of 3.5 capacity, guess it's only the crank that's different though but I reckon the standard 3.5 heads would choke any advantage you may get from going to 4.0 or above.
Also I think 3.5 blocks suitable for reconditioning (at least to their standard and guarantee requirements) are in short supply but give them a call to discuss options.
If you want to keep it as original as possible then that's probably the cheapest route anyway, 3.5 block and recondition what needs doing.
Wouldn't you need a long engine though, I assume from what occurred your original heads are no longer usable without repair ?
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