Discussion
Sorry to be posting again so soon.
I knew before I got the Griff the dash needed sorting and I have it all removed and new stainless one came today
Question is, the buttons had dropped off and rather than glue them back like they were I was going to put countersunk bolts through the old metal dash and put stainless one in front, now the stainless one is out on a couple of areas and would need about 2mm taking off all button holes and a couple of small dial holes. I have read the guides online but no one seems to say anything about this? There were no brackets left on the inside of my dash so nothing to go by and my bible has not come yet.
What have any of you guys done?
Cheers for any pointers.
btw waiting for delivery of new 100am fuses to try and fix other issue.
I knew before I got the Griff the dash needed sorting and I have it all removed and new stainless one came today

Question is, the buttons had dropped off and rather than glue them back like they were I was going to put countersunk bolts through the old metal dash and put stainless one in front, now the stainless one is out on a couple of areas and would need about 2mm taking off all button holes and a couple of small dial holes. I have read the guides online but no one seems to say anything about this? There were no brackets left on the inside of my dash so nothing to go by and my bible has not come yet.
What have any of you guys done?
Cheers for any pointers.
btw waiting for delivery of new 100am fuses to try and fix other issue.
Have a look here:
http://bertram-hill.co.uk/grif.aspx
I did a similar thing a few weeks ago. What ever you do do not alter the holes in your nice shiny SS panel. Relieve the old steel dash underneath to fit otherwise it will look a mess. All my instrument holes were spot on but the button holes required a fair amount of fettling.
Best of luck, not a difficult job.
http://bertram-hill.co.uk/grif.aspx
I did a similar thing a few weeks ago. What ever you do do not alter the holes in your nice shiny SS panel. Relieve the old steel dash underneath to fit otherwise it will look a mess. All my instrument holes were spot on but the button holes required a fair amount of fettling.
Best of luck, not a difficult job.
Whoo, thanks for that did not find that one. So nice to have some advice never mind a full colour guide!! 
BTW, while it was apart I got busy and took the information pannel apart, Thinking that a bulb was bound to go right after I put everything back together! Found the anoying tiny little 4.5mm bulbs and could not get any at my local auto store I decided to chage to standard 5mm led's, I will try to post pics when done if this interests anyone.

BTW, while it was apart I got busy and took the information pannel apart, Thinking that a bulb was bound to go right after I put everything back together! Found the anoying tiny little 4.5mm bulbs and could not get any at my local auto store I decided to chage to standard 5mm led's, I will try to post pics when done if this interests anyone.
chromosome17 said:
Whoo, thanks for that did not find that one. So nice to have some advice never mind a full colour guide!! 
BTW, while it was apart I got busy and took the information pannel apart, Thinking that a bulb was bound to go right after I put everything back together! Found the anoying tiny little 4.5mm bulbs and could not get any at my local auto store I decided to chage to standard 5mm led's, I will try to post pics when done if this interests anyone.
Always interested to see what other people have done 
BTW, while it was apart I got busy and took the information pannel apart, Thinking that a bulb was bound to go right after I put everything back together! Found the anoying tiny little 4.5mm bulbs and could not get any at my local auto store I decided to chage to standard 5mm led's, I will try to post pics when done if this interests anyone.

Just sorted out my dash recently, so can understand how fiddly this can be!
I replaced all the switches for new ones (£10 each) kept the same style, but they are getting pretty rare to source, so if you can get cheaper/better looking switch i would go for them.
I actually removed my SS cover plate and covered the bare original dash with carbon fibre. But i remember when i originally fitted the SS cover 5/6 years ago, it required quite a bit of filing of the outer profile to ensure i had enough play to line the switches up (and make it easier to fit).
The problem is that the whole dash is slightly curved to make it fit, so lining up switches and dash covers can be difficult.
Good luck - and remember to be very careful with your leather when removing/replacing the dash!
I replaced all the switches for new ones (£10 each) kept the same style, but they are getting pretty rare to source, so if you can get cheaper/better looking switch i would go for them.
I actually removed my SS cover plate and covered the bare original dash with carbon fibre. But i remember when i originally fitted the SS cover 5/6 years ago, it required quite a bit of filing of the outer profile to ensure i had enough play to line the switches up (and make it easier to fit).
The problem is that the whole dash is slightly curved to make it fit, so lining up switches and dash covers can be difficult.
Good luck - and remember to be very careful with your leather when removing/replacing the dash!
Looked at new buttons, but the price was so high gave it a miss.
One quick, just been looking at the wire loom while dash is out and looked the the meta box, there was a small flat white/clear 4 pin plug removed from the back of it so I put it back in, Anyone come accross this? No charge in battery to know if it's changed anything.
One quick, just been looking at the wire loom while dash is out and looked the the meta box, there was a small flat white/clear 4 pin plug removed from the back of it so I put it back in, Anyone come accross this? No charge in battery to know if it's changed anything.
Edited by chromosome17 on Friday 7th May 21:57
The 4 pin plug could be the connection to the Siren, that has 4 connections. Should be easy to identify by purposely triggering the alarm when armed, e.g. open a door.
From your earlier post....This maybe why you have never heard your siren. Maybe it was unplugged to mask a fault or most likely it just dropped out.
From your earlier post....This maybe why you have never heard your siren. Maybe it was unplugged to mask a fault or most likely it just dropped out.
Edited by Loubaruch on Saturday 8th May 15:36
Yeah cheers, think it was siren. get a bizz crackle phizz pop buzz when connected. So dead siren.
This was supposed to be easy compared to the 40+ year old yank tank! lol, I've found no hadbrake light due to only 9v comming through to led and no instrument illumination at all.
I think Tuesdays MOT is looking a bit unhopeful.
This was supposed to be easy compared to the 40+ year old yank tank! lol, I've found no hadbrake light due to only 9v comming through to led and no instrument illumination at all.
I think Tuesdays MOT is looking a bit unhopeful.

Edited by chromosome17 on Saturday 8th May 17:47
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