ST220 Engine rebuild
Discussion
I suppose it could slip but it would have to have had a tensoiner fall apart for the chain to be that slack for it to slip, i'm not 100% sure but i think the chains don't have a great deal of play in them without the tensioner just enough to get it over the sprockets on assembly
I would say you problem sounds like it's more bottom end than a chain.
I would say you problem sounds like it's more bottom end than a chain.
I have rebuilt my st200 engines bottom end
had a lot of trouble finding parts in the uk in the end getting them from australia the packet said for ford duratec 2.5 and 3l
you will need new cradel bolts , iirc jaguar sell them , and idealy new big end bolts but I couldnt get any that werent arp
any questions and I will try and help
dan
had a lot of trouble finding parts in the uk in the end getting them from australia the packet said for ford duratec 2.5 and 3l
you will need new cradel bolts , iirc jaguar sell them , and idealy new big end bolts but I couldnt get any that werent arp
any questions and I will try and help
dan
browser07 said:
I have rebuilt my st200 engines bottom end
had a lot of trouble finding parts in the uk in the end getting them from australia the packet said for ford duratec 2.5 and 3l
you will need new cradel bolts , iirc jaguar sell them , and idealy new big end bolts but I couldnt get any that werent arp
any questions and I will try and help
dan
You do realise what causes them to go? If you have not replaced rods it will go again.had a lot of trouble finding parts in the uk in the end getting them from australia the packet said for ford duratec 2.5 and 3l
you will need new cradel bolts , iirc jaguar sell them , and idealy new big end bolts but I couldnt get any that werent arp
any questions and I will try and help
dan
these people should be able to help they know fords inside out.
http://www.mk2focusrs.co.uk/
hope the link works
http://www.mk2focusrs.co.uk/
hope the link works
crank was reground and the rods were checked with a dial gauge it was caught very early
its done 10000 miles of my driveing since the rebuild so its not done bad a lot of that round castle combe
yes I do realise that oil starvation, oil surge, bad driveing , over reving can all cause them to go
but I bought the car with the bottom end blown so I doubt I will every know for certain (I suspect the oil was the wrong grade for the conditions I bought it last feb)
can you expand on what you mean buy have to replace the conrods pls dave ?
dan
its done 10000 miles of my driveing since the rebuild so its not done bad a lot of that round castle combe
yes I do realise that oil starvation, oil surge, bad driveing , over reving can all cause them to go
but I bought the car with the bottom end blown so I doubt I will every know for certain (I suspect the oil was the wrong grade for the conditions I bought it last feb)
can you expand on what you mean buy have to replace the conrods pls dave ?
dan
Edited by browser07 on Thursday 13th May 12:46
There is a guy in the USA who is English and used to work for Ford @ Dunton. Apparently it is none of the above, due to the way the rods are made they actually stretch over their life, this is what causes the bearing to go. One other thing that can cause it is due to how the blocks are made, sand from the manufacturing process can be left in the block-the damage is done as soon as that engine is off the production line but will not appear until way down the line. The second theory is backed up by official reports that Joe public will never see but i have! I believe the oil starvation theory was never proved but Ford deffo changed a the sump design over the 2.5's lifespan.
Im rebuilding mine due to a small end rattle (well its in a noble but same engine).... I have a very heavily baffled sump that I had made for me a few months ago.. cost around £300.
Cost will depend how far you want to go... new short block is around £1500 and each head is around £1000... but if your heads are fine and you just need valaves it should be less
... Mine is going be pretty powerful (around 520-550bhp) when its finished but you'd be amazed at how much of the stock engine is retained.
Im planning to have mountune provide the bits for me and machining and then build it myself
Cost will depend how far you want to go... new short block is around £1500 and each head is around £1000... but if your heads are fine and you just need valaves it should be less
... Mine is going be pretty powerful (around 520-550bhp) when its finished but you'd be amazed at how much of the stock engine is retained.Im planning to have mountune provide the bits for me and machining and then build it myself
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