Hydraulic tappets?
Discussion
macar said:
I'm no mechanical genius, so over to you lot. Getting some ticking noises from the engine (Serp 500), sometimes gets noisier under load/good thrashing. Anyone else have the same, just need to know as a Griff newby. Bloody Jags don't make any noise, must be spoilt.
Obviously a 500 problem, quite happy to swap a sweet running 400 unit 
macar said:
I'm no mechanical genius, so over to you lot. Getting some ticking noises from the engine (Serp 500), sometimes gets noisier under load/good thrashing. Anyone else have the same, just need to know as a Griff newby. Bloody Jags don't make any noise, must be spoilt.
Is the noise coming from the 4into1 on each exhaust manifold if so you have a hole,easily fixedblueg33 said:
rev-erend said:
Tighten the exhaust manifold bolts - the ticking will often be just that.
If you do this be VERY CAREFUL. Only tighten to the recommened torque. If you over tighten you can strip the threads in the head. The head and block are aluminium and very softSmall hand tools and an educated wrist is fine provided the threads are intact. If they're not intact then it's a bit pointless
Oooerrr..... A word of caution on over torquing seemed quite a sensible posting IMHO - even torque is more important than wringing the blox of a couple of bolts which may just exacerbate the problem. I only ever nip mine up a couple of fingers @ 3" but do focus hard on trying to make sure they are even (and go to great lengths to ensure tappings are clean and flanges don't create the torque..) Eeeek it will be even less with the new fine thread studs on the bottom rows ~ but I'll have to work that out when I need to, just the third finger or two at 1.5"? 
Sorry but I do personally believe most blowing manifold problems are down to uneven torquing and poorly matched head / gasket / manifold flange overhangs.
Just tighten till the scream mercy does seem absolutely barmy to me?
Sorry but I do personally believe most blowing manifold problems are down to uneven torquing and poorly matched head / gasket / manifold flange overhangs.
Just tighten till the scream mercy does seem absolutely barmy to me?spend said:
Oooerrr.....
Sorry but I do personally believe most blowing manifold problems are down to uneven torquing and poorly matched head / gasket / manifold flange overhangs. Just tighten till the scream mercy does seem absolutely barmy to me?
most things scream for mercy when you touch them DaveSorry but I do personally believe most blowing manifold problems are down to uneven torquing and poorly matched head / gasket / manifold flange overhangs.
Just tighten till the scream mercy does seem absolutely barmy to me?
Having re-read my previous posting, I didn't mean it to seem as abrupt as it reads but stand by the point that there is nothing like enough room with the motor in situ to 'properly' torque these fixings to any provided value so it's confusing to suggest otherwise. I agree that thoughtless leaning on them is potentially damaging but also know from experience that they back off in use even with nordlocs on, especially the rearmost ones for some reason. From memory Dave, I seem to remember you don't actually use any gasket at all, relying on sealant alone, so guess that avoids potential for the meat in the sandwich to settle...
Pupp said:
blueg33 said:
rev-erend said:
Tighten the exhaust manifold bolts - the ticking will often be just that.
If you do this be VERY CAREFUL. Only tighten to the recommened torque. If you over tighten you can strip the threads in the head. The head and block are aluminium and very softSmall hand tools and an educated wrist is fine provided the threads are intact. If they're not intact then it's a bit pointless
Edited by blueg33 on Sunday 16th May 16:53
blueg33 said:
I have removed and replaced the manifolds on my G33 which is a rover V8, and yes its a pain, but it is doable with a samll torque wrench. I would have posted the torque figures but at the moment I cant find my workshop manual
Why do you think that is relevant? Does it have TVR manifolds (I'd love to see you bend the primary out of the way just to get a wrench on a bolt 
WTF do we have all this binetta trivia spouted as though it is relevant? It's hard enough keeping our own owners from getting confused without chucking in irrelevant motors /rant
spend said:
blueg33 said:
I have removed and replaced the manifolds on my G33 which is a rover V8, and yes its a pain, but it is doable with a samll torque wrench. I would have posted the torque figures but at the moment I cant find my workshop manual
Why do you think that is relevant? Does it have TVR manifolds (I'd love to see you bend the primary out of the way just to get a wrench on a bolt WTF do we have all this binetta trivia spouted as though it is relevant? It's hard enough keeping our own owners from getting confused without chucking in irrelevant motors /rant
If you do not believe it is the manifolds here is some alternative experience:
I have had noisy tappets on my 500 recently. It turned out that both the tappets and the camshaft needed replacement. Other symptons were that I lost power and that the engine did not run properly on all cylinders when starting up from cold. Also, on load it made more noise.
I ordered a camshaft kit from TVR Power, got it replaced here in Sweden and now it is quiet and it got the power back.
I have had noisy tappets on my 500 recently. It turned out that both the tappets and the camshaft needed replacement. Other symptons were that I lost power and that the engine did not run properly on all cylinders when starting up from cold. Also, on load it made more noise.
I ordered a camshaft kit from TVR Power, got it replaced here in Sweden and now it is quiet and it got the power back.
spend said:
blueg33 said:
I have removed and replaced the manifolds on my G33 which is a rover V8, and yes its a pain, but it is doable with a samll torque wrench. I would have posted the torque figures but at the moment I cant find my workshop manual
Why do you think that is relevant? Does it have TVR manifolds (I'd love to see you bend the primary out of the way just to get a wrench on a bolt WTF do we have all this binetta trivia spouted as though it is relevant? It's hard enough keeping our own owners from getting confused without chucking in irrelevant motors /rant
You say why should you have Ginetta trivia here? Well you all seem happy to listen to Blitzracing (Mark) and use his time and knowledge. His car is a G33, and he started to get to know our engines on the basis of that. He used my ECU to gather some of his data on cat maps. So is the motor irrelevant...of course not, it was even supplied by TVR Power. Yes the installation is slightly different.
My first post in this subject was to try and stop a fellow PH'er over tightening his manifold bolts and causing damage. Even if he cant get any sort of torque wrench on them, he needs to know not to over tighten. If you have a problem with that then fine, but a little growing up may do you some good!
Oh and if you want to get all cliquey, then the next Griff I see broken down at the side of the road because his injection relay has failed, wont get the benefit of my spare one or my help tracingthe fault, after all it must be irrelevant because you said so!
Edited by blueg33 on Sunday 16th May 22:22
Wind your neck in; there may be sufficient room in a Ginetta, there is nothing like in a Griff or Chim. It's hard enough to even get a spanner on with the stock fasteners and there's an awful lot of misinformation on here from folk who have never even attempted jobs like this (on any car). Yes, it's quite possible to strip a thread but, to be frank, if you manage that, especially on the bottom run, given the clearance and room to get leverage, you have a thread problem to start with that needs the heads off to fix. And for alloy, the heads (and blocks) are not especially 'soft'... if you want soft, try cam cap fasteners on pretty much any Kawasaki or Suzuki bike engine. Absolutely nothing to lose in seeing if these fasteners are loose and an obvious first thing to eliminate for any engine tap on a Rv8 tiv. So ner
Pupp said:
Wind your neck in; there may be sufficient room in a Ginetta, there is nothing like in a Griff or Chim. It's hard enough to even get a spanner on with the stock fasteners and there's an awful lot of misinformation on here from folk who have never even attempted jobs like this (on any car). Yes, it's quite possible to strip a thread but, to be frank, if you manage that, especially on the bottom run, given the clearance and room to get leverage, you have a thread problem to start with that needs the heads off to fix. And for alloy, the heads (and blocks) are not especially 'soft'... if you want soft, try cam cap fasteners on pretty much any Kawasaki or Suzuki bike engine. Absolutely nothing to lose in seeing if these fasteners are loose and an obvious first thing to eliminate for any engine tap on a Rv8 tiv. So ner
Agreed, but some bolts are accessible eg the top ones, and one could easily overtighten, i have seen it done.I accept that the cars are different, I dont accept the comments referring to irrelevancy.
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