1600M driveshaft
Discussion
Is the 1600M driveshaft/halfshaft/hub assembly just a standard TR6 item?
Trying to identify the replacements, but as usual, images seem to be for illustrative purposes only and don't seem to quite match what we've got at the moment.
Heres a picture of the hub end.
Its an early M, 1972/73.
Thanks
Trying to identify the replacements, but as usual, images seem to be for illustrative purposes only and don't seem to quite match what we've got at the moment.
Heres a picture of the hub end.
Its an early M, 1972/73.
Thanks
Edited by Cerberus90 on Saturday 15th May 13:50
Cerberus90 said:
Is the 1600M driveshaft/halfshaft/hub assembly just a standard TR6 item?
Trying to identify the replacements, but as usual, images seem to be for illustrative purposes only and don't seem to quite match what we've got at the moment.
Heres a picture of the hub end.
Its an early M, 1972/73.
Thanks
The hubs are IRS TR 4-6Trying to identify the replacements, but as usual, images seem to be for illustrative purposes only and don't seem to quite match what we've got at the moment.
Heres a picture of the hub end.
Its an early M, 1972/73.
Thanks
Edited by Cerberus90 on Saturday 15th May 13:50
I think that the shafts are Triumph 2000
If you are going to get the Hubs re-furbished, make sure you get them done by someone who knows what they are doing. Also DONT mix them up and ensure you mark L/H and R/H hub
They generally shear after batches are re-conned and are re-fitted on the opposite side of where they have spent the last 25 or so years. You have been warned!
N
Thanks for the advice.
Found out the shafts are Triumph stag ones. Which I would guess are probably the same as the 2000 too.
I think we're going to get some re-con'd hubs, as the bearings don't seem very smooth. Theres no play, but it doesn't spin very easily, spin it and it stops almost straight away, sounds a bit rough too.
My dads not keen on replacing the bearing ourselves, due to the tube washer thing and the fact that we're booked for a trackday at cadwell on 1st June. And we've got to replace 3 UJs on the driveshafts, possibly replace the hubs, replace a slave cylinder on a rear drum, re fit the accelerator (bolts were rusted away), make some thinner seat bases so we can fit in better with helmets on.
Found out the shafts are Triumph stag ones. Which I would guess are probably the same as the 2000 too.
I think we're going to get some re-con'd hubs, as the bearings don't seem very smooth. Theres no play, but it doesn't spin very easily, spin it and it stops almost straight away, sounds a bit rough too.
My dads not keen on replacing the bearing ourselves, due to the tube washer thing and the fact that we're booked for a trackday at cadwell on 1st June. And we've got to replace 3 UJs on the driveshafts, possibly replace the hubs, replace a slave cylinder on a rear drum, re fit the accelerator (bolts were rusted away), make some thinner seat bases so we can fit in better with helmets on.
Talk to Adrian @ ExactlyTVR for hubs and UJs, the shafts are indeed Triumph 2000 mk2 as are the hubs, a lot of interchangable parts in the Triumph bin. The shaft is universal throughout the M series, only the inner drive flange is special on the 1600M, fit UJs with grease nipples if possible the outer UJ has a habit of rusting the needle rollers. Geoff
Cerberus90 said:
Thanks for the advice.
Found out the shafts are Triumph stag ones. Which I would guess are probably the same as the 2000 too.
I think we're going to get some re-con'd hubs, as the bearings don't seem very smooth. Theres no play, but it doesn't spin very easily, spin it and it stops almost straight away, sounds a bit rough too.
My dads not keen on replacing the bearing ourselves, due to the tube washer thing and the fact that we're booked for a trackday at cadwell on 1st June. And we've got to replace 3 UJs on the driveshafts, possibly replace the hubs, replace a slave cylinder on a rear drum, re fit the accelerator (bolts were rusted away), make some thinner seat bases so we can fit in better with helmets on.
You have missed my point.Found out the shafts are Triumph stag ones. Which I would guess are probably the same as the 2000 too.
I think we're going to get some re-con'd hubs, as the bearings don't seem very smooth. Theres no play, but it doesn't spin very easily, spin it and it stops almost straight away, sounds a bit rough too.
My dads not keen on replacing the bearing ourselves, due to the tube washer thing and the fact that we're booked for a trackday at cadwell on 1st June. And we've got to replace 3 UJs on the driveshafts, possibly replace the hubs, replace a slave cylinder on a rear drum, re fit the accelerator (bolts were rusted away), make some thinner seat bases so we can fit in better with helmets on.
Stamp YOUR hubs L/H and R/H then get Adrian to re-con your OWN hubs.
when hubs are re-conned in batches out of the parts bin from scrap yards etc etc, because they are not handed they may come of a L/H wheel and go back on a R/H wheel. Over time many specialists have come to the conclusion that this is what increases the instance of shearing on a reconditioned hub, not withstanding a hub not from your car may have been reconned a few times before.
Regards, not being able to turn it, Thats the way they are supposed to be, when stripped and re-built the bearings are pre-loaded for thrust and a rotational pre-load set on the hub, usually about 14 inch pounds from memory.
N
heightswitch said:
You have missed my point.
Stamp YOUR hubs L/H and R/H then get Adrian to re-con your OWN hubs.
I realised that after posting, Stamp YOUR hubs L/H and R/H then get Adrian to re-con your OWN hubs.
. I thought, hold on, if you get recon ones how do you know which are which.heightswitch said:
Regards, not being able to turn it, Thats the way they are supposed to be, when stripped and re-built the bearings are pre-loaded for thrust and a rotational pre-load set on the hub, usually about 14 inch pounds from memory.
Ah, sounds like we probably don't need them recon'd then.That's quite good, save a bit of money to go towards other bits for it.
Cheers for the info chaps.
To check the bearings..note that the stone guard should not float free and rotate...once the bearing is off the car cover the stud ends with a cloth and hold this into your tummy whilst holding half shaft, allowing you to rotate the bearing housing with your other hand, rock this right and left. It should be smooth in both directions and not in any way noisy, tight is one thing, they are built with pre-load, BUT,, as you go one way and the other chatter in the bearings is then obvious....THESE ARE NOT STAG drive shafts which are shorter by 1 inch (overall 2" on the track) on a 1600 this is CRITICAL as the diff is slimmer in width than all the rest of the cars.
Adrian@
Edited to say..The stone guard is captured between the large nut/adjuster/rear bearing/crush tube/front bearing/front flange...with this rotating it is the early sign of the end float being way out of tolerance, this allows the roller bearings to arc across the ends (they are barrel shaped) and if you then tighten the large nut the bearings run on the centre high points for a very short period prior to failing.
Adrian@
Edited to say..The stone guard is captured between the large nut/adjuster/rear bearing/crush tube/front bearing/front flange...with this rotating it is the early sign of the end float being way out of tolerance, this allows the roller bearings to arc across the ends (they are barrel shaped) and if you then tighten the large nut the bearings run on the centre high points for a very short period prior to failing.
Edited by Adrian@ on Sunday 16th May 11:08
Adrian,
We have checked the bearings as you suggested and there are no noises.
The only concern was that the bearing didn't 'spin' freely as front hubs do, but from what has been said about the pre-load I should not expect this, is this correct?
Regarding drive-shafts, the splined length on mine as shown in the photo is only 60mm, which seems short to me, do you think I've got the wrong drive shafts (they look originals)?
Many Thanks
We have checked the bearings as you suggested and there are no noises.
The only concern was that the bearing didn't 'spin' freely as front hubs do, but from what has been said about the pre-load I should not expect this, is this correct?
Regarding drive-shafts, the splined length on mine as shown in the photo is only 60mm, which seems short to me, do you think I've got the wrong drive shafts (they look originals)?
Many Thanks
The spline length on all the Triumph units is 60MM, the total length is where the difference is and 235MM from the back of the yoke is correct.
The bearing has to rotate cleanly, stiffness has to effectively translates into heat, I would only expaect a new unit to be difficult to turn, with a combination of the taper rollers being well packed with grease...I build these for the Triumph fraternity sometimes 10 a month...the major concern is use of tri-pullers/presses attempting to separate the front flange making the flange a throw away item.
Adrian@
The bearing has to rotate cleanly, stiffness has to effectively translates into heat, I would only expaect a new unit to be difficult to turn, with a combination of the taper rollers being well packed with grease...I build these for the Triumph fraternity sometimes 10 a month...the major concern is use of tri-pullers/presses attempting to separate the front flange making the flange a throw away item.
Adrian@
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